Why doesn't anyone make a CS adapter for the Q?

GibbyTheMole · 05-01-2013, 05:23 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by digital029art

Finally found an actual CS->Q adapter from Taiwan. Downside: it's $50 !

Yeesh! No thanks. On the upside, maybe it'll give someone else the idea to make one that isn't insanely priced.

Nick Siebers · 05-15-2013, 07:40 PM

Originally posted by GibbyTheMole

Yeesh! No thanks. On the upside, maybe it'll give someone else the idea to make one that isn't insanely priced.

I am hoping someone else will make one. Doesn't look that hard to do....

2old4toys · 05-30-2019, 11:20 PM

I am on the brink of completing my metal one piece CS - PQ adaptor.

Will be very great full if I can have some recommendations for CS lenses with high resolution!

Also do any of them have aperture control?

2old4toys · 06-15-2019, 08:30 AM

Computar 2.9 8.2mm f1 CS zoom lens adapted for Pentax Q

By pure chance, stumbled across this old used Computar 2.9 8.2mm f1 CS Mount with manual aperture control. It’s official purpose is for use with CCTV/Security cameras.

The rear lens element moves in and out as you zoom but no problems mounted to a Q. The front lens element retracts back into the lens body at the tele end leaving the length of the plastic outer body acting kind of as a hood. The aperture blades form a triangular shape when closing down clicklessly to the point where it can block all light from passing.

It has the most plastic on any lens I have come across. Even for the lens thread! Repurposed my DIY CS-PQ plastic body cap adaptor to avoid inadvertent overtighted stripping of the plastic lens threads on a my metal CS adaptor.

Fully open it exhibits a little fuzz to the image but I see written reviews by others that this is a common thing in F1 lenses. This is the only F1 lens I have and regardless I find it a lot of fun wide open despite being hard to fine focus.

I am still quite lost with understanding terms regards bokeh quality... is this good or bad, I just can’t tell the difference yet so you be the judge.

I just lost the edge off the initial hard lust I had for super fast aperture C/CS mount lens on the Q.

Last edited by 2old4toys; 06-15-2019 at 08:38 AM.

**barondla** · 06-15-2019, 09:42 AM

Originally posted by 2old4toys

Computar 2.9 8.2mm f1 CS zoom lens adapted for Pentax Q

By pure chance, stumbled across this old used Computar 2.9 8.2mm f1 CS Mount with manual aperture control. It’s official purpose is for use with CCTV/Security cameras.

The rear lens element moves in and out as you zoom but no problems mounted to a Q. The front lens element retracts back into the lens body at the tele end leaving the length of the plastic outer body acting kind of as a hood. The aperture blades form a triangular shape when closing down clicklessly to the point where it can block all light from passing.

It has the most plastic on any lens I have come across. Even for the lens thread! Repurposed my DIY CS-PQ plastic body cap adaptor to avoid inadvertent overtighted stripping of the plastic lens threads on a my metal CS adaptor.

Fully open it exhibits a little fuzz to the image but I see written reviews by others that this is a common thing in F1 lenses. This is the only F1 lens I have and regardless I find it a lot of fun wide open despite being hard to fine focus.

I am still quite lost with understanding terms regards bokeh quality... is this good or bad, I just can’t tell the difference yet so you be the judge.

I just lost the edge off the initial hard lust I had for super fast aperture C/CS mount lens on the Q.

2old4toys I like the very interesting bokeh. Doubt it is what most bokeh chasers are seeking. The tree image has a 3D depth that is amazing. F1 coupled with such a short focal length gives a different out of focus background look. Cool image!
Thanks for sharing,
barondla

2old4toys · 06-16-2019, 10:12 PM

Still wide open, at 8.2mm stepping a fraction closer and refocusing the background gets smoother but still some bubbles (soap bubble?) here and there.

Focusing is admittedly tricky wide open with the focus ring a bit jerky. It’s easy to overshoot but still just about doable. I keep reminding myself this is is worth it for the f1!

Making yourself a basic CS adaptor that costs next to nothing. It involves cutting out a hole in a 3rd party hard plastic locking Q body cap, optionally adding a 1mm spacer for C lenses to get the CS lenses to focus to infinity and glue.
I have 2 small fixed aperture CS lenses that focus some way beyond infinity so it is not too much of an impact for an adaptor that is a little too thick or too thin, the lens focussing rings on these are very forgiving to adequately compensate for my DIY tolerances.

Be warned to put up with a fair amount of lateral play in the body cap so the lens may not be perfectly centred. Just jiggle it to balance out any vignettes that may be present after mounting, and jiggle it some more later when you change focus/zoom/aperture. Might even be useful if you want lens-shift capabilities on a Q?

My CS Computar lens has a somewhat stiff focus ring so the mount with shift when adjusting focus.

kd1yt · 06-30-2019, 09:29 PM - **2 Likes**

I've been interested in trying some CS lenses on my Q, including an ebay-acquired Theia SY110M 1.7mm F1.8 that I bought a year or two ago but haven't adapted yet (my projects outstrip my time). No typo, truly 1.7mm, and apparently the company has some patented way of doing things that eliminates or at least minimizes barrel distortion. Judging by hand-holding it in front of the Q's flange, not sure the image quality will be stunning, but I am hoping that was partly the effect of light leakage and probably ???? alignment precision from my hand-held tryout. The field of view seems all-out bizzarely wide in all directions and I did not perceive vignetting.

I looked at flange focal distances and adapters, and the flange focal distance of a "D" cine lens is 12.29mm, whereas, for CS, its 12.526mm. So a CS lens on a D adapter face will end up focusing a bit past infinity and lose a bit of its close-focus end of adjustment, unless you shim it, but I am not sure that 0.266mm will be of vast consequence (although maybe it will, given that we are in the land of tiny-everything) eBay is swarmed with very low cost "D-PQ" adapters and I have picked up a few. The diameter of the D lens threads is much smaller than C, but it's easier to make a hole larger than smaller....

Someday when the "roundtuit" aligns, I want to put one of my "D" adapters in my lathe and spin the hole wider to match a CS lens flange. If I am feeling methodical, I may cut the hole small at first and see if I can use a 10-32 tap, with the lathe leadscrew set to 32tpi feed, to 'kiss' the 32 tpi thread that both the C and CS use into the edge of the opening (1"-32tpi taps to directly match the C/CS thread seem ridiculously expensive.). If I am in a less methodical mode, I may just use the lathe to hog out the center to a snug fit on the CS threads, and, if no major shimming is needed, get out the adhesive du jour.

If/ when the 'roundtuit' aligns on my D to CS experiment, I will try to post the results here- but I wanted to mention that hacking a cheap D-PQ adapter looks like the fast lane to a low cost CS adapter

**barondla** · 07-01-2019, 07:14 AM

Originally posted by kd1yt

I've been interested in trying some CS lenses on my Q, including an ebay-acquired Theia SY110M 1.7mm F1.8 that I bought a year or two ago but haven't adapted yet (my projects outstrip my time). No typo, truly 1.7mm, and apparently the company has some patented way of doing things that eliminates or at least minimizes barrel distortion. Judging by hand-holding it in front of the Q's flange, not sure the image quality will be stunning, but I am hoping that was partly the effect of light leakage and probably ???? alignment precision from my hand-held tryout. The field of view seems all-out bizzarely wide in all directions and I did not perceive vignetting.

I looked at flange focal distances and adapters, and the flange focal distance of a "D" cine lens is 12.29mm, whereas, for CS, its 12.526mm. So a CS lens on a D adapter face will end up focusing a bit past infinity and lose a bit of its close-focus end of adjustment, unless you shim it, but I am not sure that 0.266mm will be of vast consequence (although maybe it will, given that we are in the land of tiny-everything) eBay is swarmed with very low cost "D-PQ" adapters and I have picked up a few. The diameter of the D lens threads is much smaller than C, but it's easier to make a hole larger than smaller....

Someday when the "roundtuit" aligns, I want to put one of my "D" adapters in my lathe and spin the hole wider to match a CS lens flange. If I am feeling methodical, I may cut the hole small at first and see if I can use a 10-32 tap, with the lathe leadscrew set to 32tpi feed, to 'kiss' the 32 tpi thread that both the C and CS use into the edge of the opening (1"-32tpi taps to directly match the C/CS thread seem ridiculously expensive.). If I am in a less methodical mode, I may just use the lathe to hog out the center to a snug fit on the CS threads, and, if no major shimming is needed, get out the adhesive du jour.

If/ when the 'roundtuit' aligns on my D to CS experiment, I will try to post the results here- but I wanted to mention that hacking a cheap D-PQ adapter looks like the fast lane to a low cost CS adapter

Fabulous idea starting with a different adapter than 2old4toy's modification. There's no way I could slice an adapter cleanly to the correct thickness for focusing. With work I can use your method and make the hole larger. Love the no need to thread idea. I don't mind the adapter being permanently attached.

Kd1yt is your lens a fisheye? If so, any idea how wide?
Thanks for sharing,
barondla

kd1yt · 07-01-2019, 08:12 PM - **2 Likes**

Glad this idea might help open doors for people to use CS lenses. There seem to be more affordably-priced CS lenses on ebay than C lenses, both because a lot of modern CCTV seems to have gone to CS, and also because no other camera other than the Q has a flange distance short enough to be able to use either CS or D lenses.

The Theia is a really weird lens, in an interesting way. Some proprietary technology that they use allows a relatively non-fisheyed ultrawide lens. 1.7mm at the Q's 5.6 crop factor would be a 9.5mm equivalent for a 35mm format comparison, and the idea of a 9mm non fisheye lens is pretty wild. I think I remember when I was hand-holding it in front of the camera opening that I saw the edges of my feet, even though I was standing up and pointing it forwards. I am not sure the resolution will be terrific (the model I have is one of their economy-line ones)((I think I got it for about $40 on ebay, open box, spotless, but the list price is far, far higher) but it will be fun to play around with. They do have some higher resolution models but I haven't come across one of those yet at a good price.

The model that I have - SY110/MY110 Ultra wide ? Theia Technologies

overview of their ultrawide non-fisheye tech and models: Ultra wide angle lenses ? Theia Technologies

simulator Calculator ? Theia Technologies
I have no connection with the company - I just like experimenting with oddball stuff

kd1yt · 07-01-2019, 08:22 PM - **2 Likes**

I need to get out and use my Q more, I get too busy with work and other things in life, but I find it fascinating how the Q opens up such opportunities to experiment with lenses at both the extreme wide and extreme telephoto ends of the spectrum. I have a couple of low cost mirror lenses inbound, one a 300mm and one a 500mm. Not sure yet how the optical quality of the mirror lenses will fare when subjected to the Q's crop factor, but it will be interesting to see. I already have an optically very nice Fujinon 'machine vision' TF2.8DA 2.8mm lens- it doesn't fill out the full Q sensor in the corners but seems from some initial brief testing to be very sharp. From the Theia 1.7mm on the one end being 9.5mm at 35MM equivalent to the 500mm mirror being 2800mm at 35mm equivalent (or even the 300mm mirror being 1680mm 35mm equivalent), it is "way out" that one camera can accept lenses that have such range at both extremes, and also that it can still amount to a modest lightweight bagful in order to have the 'official' Q lenses plus some of these extreme options.

2old4toys · 07-04-2019, 08:46 PM

@kd1yt those Theia CS lenses look very interesting for the lack of fisheye distortion.
Finding a high megapixel, fast CS lenses with manual aperture control is a quest I am on now.

2old4toys · 08-04-2019, 02:44 AM - **1 Like**

Teensy little flowers shot on an original Q iso 200 1/800s with a 5 megapixel 8mm CS lens fixed aperture. Maybe F2 ish? Keep cranking to focus very close up.

n3eg · 08-29-2019, 12:59 PM - **2 Likes**

I did my latest lens cap mod and got a CS long zoom to infinity focus at the wide end, halfway to full zoom. I'm going to see if I can bring it in any closer.

2old4toys · 08-30-2019, 02:58 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by n3eg

I did my latest lens cap mod and got a CS long zoom to infinity focus at the wide end, halfway to full zoom. I'm going to see if I can bring it in any closer.

Show us a pic of your CS mount and lens combo.

BTW I have a new tip to greatly reduce and dampen any unwanted wiggle space between the camera body and a body cap. Use a small thin hair band elastic. Colour of your choice. Just Wrap it around the bayonet of the bodycap. I can now happily adjust focus and aperture without the bodycap shifting around excessively.

Unmounting the lens is fine, the hair band stays gripped on the lens end of the bayonet.

[Edit] just to specify the wobble is relating to DIY bodycap mod and the stiff focus of my Computar F1 lens. A hair band fixes it nicely.

2old4toys · 09-10-2020, 02:56 AM

Picked up a made in Japan 6mm f1.4 CS mount lens that I’m hoping to use with my Q’s. Typical for CCTV lenses, it had a wire coming out of it that I removed along with the motor mechanism so I can manually (rather than electrically) adjust via the built in aperture slider. Once I could open the aperture, what threw me was what looks to be an internal concentric ND filter buried inside the optics. Any ideas what it’s for and how I’d get it out?

06-16-2019, 10:12 PM	#21
2old4toys Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2018 Posts: 391	Still wide open, at 8.2mm stepping a fraction closer and refocusing the background gets smoother but still some bubbles (soap bubble?) here and there. Focusing is admittedly tricky wide open with the focus ring a bit jerky. It’s easy to overshoot but still just about doable. I keep reminding myself this is is worth it for the f1! Making yourself a basic CS adaptor that costs next to nothing. It involves cutting out a hole in a 3rd party hard plastic locking Q body cap, optionally adding a 1mm spacer for C lenses to get the CS lenses to focus to infinity and glue. I have 2 small fixed aperture CS lenses that focus some way beyond infinity so it is not too much of an impact for an adaptor that is a little too thick or too thin, the lens focussing rings on these are very forgiving to adequately compensate for my DIY tolerances. Be warned to put up with a fair amount of lateral play in the body cap so the lens may not be perfectly centred. Just jiggle it to balance out any vignettes that may be present after mounting, and jiggle it some more later when you change focus/zoom/aperture. Might even be useful if you want lens-shift capabilities on a Q? My CS Computar lens has a somewhat stiff focus ring so the mount with shift when adjusting focus. Last edited by 2old4toys; 06-16-2019 at 11:21 PM.

08-30-2019, 02:58 AM - 1 Like	#29
2old4toys Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2018 Posts: 391	Originally posted by n3eg I did my latest lens cap mod and got a CS long zoom to infinity focus at the wide end, halfway to full zoom. I'm going to see if I can bring it in any closer. Show us a pic of your CS mount and lens combo. BTW I have a new tip to greatly reduce and dampen any unwanted wiggle space between the camera body and a body cap. Use a small thin hair band elastic. Colour of your choice. Just Wrap it around the bayonet of the bodycap. I can now happily adjust focus and aperture without the bodycap shifting around excessively. Unmounting the lens is fine, the hair band stays gripped on the lens end of the bayonet. [Edit] just to specify the wobble is relating to DIY bodycap mod and the stiff focus of my Computar F1 lens. A hair band fixes it nicely. Last edited by 2old4toys; 06-07-2020 at 08:24 PM.

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05-01-2013, 05:23 AM - 1 Like	#16
GibbyTheMole Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Iowa Photos: Albums Posts: 2,275 Original Poster	Originally posted by digital029art Finally found an actual CS->Q adapter from Taiwan. Downside: it's $50 ! Yeesh! No thanks. On the upside, maybe it'll give someone else the idea to make one that isn't insanely priced.

05-15-2013, 07:40 PM	#17
Nick Siebers Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Madison, WI Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,165	Originally posted by GibbyTheMole Yeesh! No thanks. On the upside, maybe it'll give someone else the idea to make one that isn't insanely priced. I am hoping someone else will make one. Doesn't look that hard to do....

05-30-2019, 11:20 PM	#18
2old4toys Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2018 Posts: 391	I am on the brink of completing my metal one piece CS - PQ adaptor. Will be very great full if I can have some recommendations for CS lenses with high resolution! Also do any of them have aperture control?

06-15-2019, 08:30 AM	#19
2old4toys Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2018 Posts: 391	Computar 2.9 8.2mm f1 CS zoom lens adapted for Pentax Q By pure chance, stumbled across this old used Computar 2.9 8.2mm f1 CS Mount with manual aperture control. It’s official purpose is for use with CCTV/Security cameras. The rear lens element moves in and out as you zoom but no problems mounted to a Q. The front lens element retracts back into the lens body at the tele end leaving the length of the plastic outer body acting kind of as a hood. The aperture blades form a triangular shape when closing down clicklessly to the point where it can block all light from passing. It has the most plastic on any lens I have come across. Even for the lens thread! Repurposed my DIY CS-PQ plastic body cap adaptor to avoid inadvertent overtighted stripping of the plastic lens threads on a my metal CS adaptor. Fully open it exhibits a little fuzz to the image but I see written reviews by others that this is a common thing in F1 lenses. This is the only F1 lens I have and regardless I find it a lot of fun wide open despite being hard to fine focus. I am still quite lost with understanding terms regards bokeh quality... is this good or bad, I just can’t tell the difference yet so you be the judge. I just lost the edge off the initial hard lust I had for super fast aperture C/CS mount lens on the Q. Last edited by 2old4toys; 06-15-2019 at 08:38 AM.

06-15-2019, 09:42 AM	#20
barondla Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: midwest, United States Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,714	Originally posted by 2old4toys Computar 2.9 8.2mm f1 CS zoom lens adapted for Pentax Q By pure chance, stumbled across this old used Computar 2.9 8.2mm f1 CS Mount with manual aperture control. It’s official purpose is for use with CCTV/Security cameras. The rear lens element moves in and out as you zoom but no problems mounted to a Q. The front lens element retracts back into the lens body at the tele end leaving the length of the plastic outer body acting kind of as a hood. The aperture blades form a triangular shape when closing down clicklessly to the point where it can block all light from passing. It has the most plastic on any lens I have come across. Even for the lens thread! Repurposed my DIY CS-PQ plastic body cap adaptor to avoid inadvertent overtighted stripping of the plastic lens threads on a my metal CS adaptor. Fully open it exhibits a little fuzz to the image but I see written reviews by others that this is a common thing in F1 lenses. This is the only F1 lens I have and regardless I find it a lot of fun wide open despite being hard to fine focus. I am still quite lost with understanding terms regards bokeh quality... is this good or bad, I just can’t tell the difference yet so you be the judge. I just lost the edge off the initial hard lust I had for super fast aperture C/CS mount lens on the Q. 2old4toys I like the very interesting bokeh. Doubt it is what most bokeh chasers are seeking. The tree image has a 3D depth that is amazing. F1 coupled with such a short focal length gives a different out of focus background look. Cool image! Thanks for sharing, barondla

06-30-2019, 09:29 PM - 2 Likes	#22
kd1yt New Member Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Vermont USA Posts: 4	I've been interested in trying some CS lenses on my Q, including an ebay-acquired Theia SY110M 1.7mm F1.8 that I bought a year or two ago but haven't adapted yet (my projects outstrip my time). No typo, truly 1.7mm, and apparently the company has some patented way of doing things that eliminates or at least minimizes barrel distortion. Judging by hand-holding it in front of the Q's flange, not sure the image quality will be stunning, but I am hoping that was partly the effect of light leakage and probably ???? alignment precision from my hand-held tryout. The field of view seems all-out bizzarely wide in all directions and I did not perceive vignetting. I looked at flange focal distances and adapters, and the flange focal distance of a "D" cine lens is 12.29mm, whereas, for CS, its 12.526mm. So a CS lens on a D adapter face will end up focusing a bit past infinity and lose a bit of its close-focus end of adjustment, unless you shim it, but I am not sure that 0.266mm will be of vast consequence (although maybe it will, given that we are in the land of tiny-everything) eBay is swarmed with very low cost "D-PQ" adapters and I have picked up a few. The diameter of the D lens threads is much smaller than C, but it's easier to make a hole larger than smaller.... Someday when the "roundtuit" aligns, I want to put one of my "D" adapters in my lathe and spin the hole wider to match a CS lens flange. If I am feeling methodical, I may cut the hole small at first and see if I can use a 10-32 tap, with the lathe leadscrew set to 32tpi feed, to 'kiss' the 32 tpi thread that both the C and CS use into the edge of the opening (1"-32tpi taps to directly match the C/CS thread seem ridiculously expensive.). If I am in a less methodical mode, I may just use the lathe to hog out the center to a snug fit on the CS threads, and, if no major shimming is needed, get out the adhesive du jour. If/ when the 'roundtuit' aligns on my D to CS experiment, I will try to post the results here- but I wanted to mention that hacking a cheap D-PQ adapter looks like the fast lane to a low cost CS adapter

07-01-2019, 07:14 AM	#23
barondla Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: midwest, United States Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,714	Originally posted by kd1yt I've been interested in trying some CS lenses on my Q, including an ebay-acquired Theia SY110M 1.7mm F1.8 that I bought a year or two ago but haven't adapted yet (my projects outstrip my time). No typo, truly 1.7mm, and apparently the company has some patented way of doing things that eliminates or at least minimizes barrel distortion. Judging by hand-holding it in front of the Q's flange, not sure the image quality will be stunning, but I am hoping that was partly the effect of light leakage and probably ???? alignment precision from my hand-held tryout. The field of view seems all-out bizzarely wide in all directions and I did not perceive vignetting. I looked at flange focal distances and adapters, and the flange focal distance of a "D" cine lens is 12.29mm, whereas, for CS, its 12.526mm. So a CS lens on a D adapter face will end up focusing a bit past infinity and lose a bit of its close-focus end of adjustment, unless you shim it, but I am not sure that 0.266mm will be of vast consequence (although maybe it will, given that we are in the land of tiny-everything) eBay is swarmed with very low cost "D-PQ" adapters and I have picked up a few. The diameter of the D lens threads is much smaller than C, but it's easier to make a hole larger than smaller.... Someday when the "roundtuit" aligns, I want to put one of my "D" adapters in my lathe and spin the hole wider to match a CS lens flange. If I am feeling methodical, I may cut the hole small at first and see if I can use a 10-32 tap, with the lathe leadscrew set to 32tpi feed, to 'kiss' the 32 tpi thread that both the C and CS use into the edge of the opening (1"-32tpi taps to directly match the C/CS thread seem ridiculously expensive.). If I am in a less methodical mode, I may just use the lathe to hog out the center to a snug fit on the CS threads, and, if no major shimming is needed, get out the adhesive du jour. If/ when the 'roundtuit' aligns on my D to CS experiment, I will try to post the results here- but I wanted to mention that hacking a cheap D-PQ adapter looks like the fast lane to a low cost CS adapter Fabulous idea starting with a different adapter than 2old4toy's modification. There's no way I could slice an adapter cleanly to the correct thickness for focusing. With work I can use your method and make the hole larger. Love the no need to thread idea. I don't mind the adapter being permanently attached. Kd1yt is your lens a fisheye? If so, any idea how wide? Thanks for sharing, barondla

07-01-2019, 08:12 PM - 2 Likes	#24
kd1yt New Member Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Vermont USA Posts: 4	Glad this idea might help open doors for people to use CS lenses. There seem to be more affordably-priced CS lenses on ebay than C lenses, both because a lot of modern CCTV seems to have gone to CS, and also because no other camera other than the Q has a flange distance short enough to be able to use either CS or D lenses. The Theia is a really weird lens, in an interesting way. Some proprietary technology that they use allows a relatively non-fisheyed ultrawide lens. 1.7mm at the Q's 5.6 crop factor would be a 9.5mm equivalent for a 35mm format comparison, and the idea of a 9mm non fisheye lens is pretty wild. I think I remember when I was hand-holding it in front of the camera opening that I saw the edges of my feet, even though I was standing up and pointing it forwards. I am not sure the resolution will be terrific (the model I have is one of their economy-line ones)((I think I got it for about $40 on ebay, open box, spotless, but the list price is far, far higher) but it will be fun to play around with. They do have some higher resolution models but I haven't come across one of those yet at a good price. The model that I have - SY110/MY110 Ultra wide ? Theia Technologies overview of their ultrawide non-fisheye tech and models: Ultra wide angle lenses ? Theia Technologies simulator Calculator ? Theia Technologies I have no connection with the company - I just like experimenting with oddball stuff

07-01-2019, 08:22 PM - 2 Likes	#25
kd1yt New Member Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Vermont USA Posts: 4	I need to get out and use my Q more, I get too busy with work and other things in life, but I find it fascinating how the Q opens up such opportunities to experiment with lenses at both the extreme wide and extreme telephoto ends of the spectrum. I have a couple of low cost mirror lenses inbound, one a 300mm and one a 500mm. Not sure yet how the optical quality of the mirror lenses will fare when subjected to the Q's crop factor, but it will be interesting to see. I already have an optically very nice Fujinon 'machine vision' TF2.8DA 2.8mm lens- it doesn't fill out the full Q sensor in the corners but seems from some initial brief testing to be very sharp. From the Theia 1.7mm on the one end being 9.5mm at 35MM equivalent to the 500mm mirror being 2800mm at 35mm equivalent (or even the 300mm mirror being 1680mm 35mm equivalent), it is "way out" that one camera can accept lenses that have such range at both extremes, and also that it can still amount to a modest lightweight bagful in order to have the 'official' Q lenses plus some of these extreme options.

07-04-2019, 08:46 PM	#26
2old4toys Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2018 Posts: 391	@kd1yt those Theia CS lenses look very interesting for the lack of fisheye distortion. Finding a high megapixel, fast CS lenses with manual aperture control is a quest I am on now.

08-04-2019, 02:44 AM - 1 Like	#27
2old4toys Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2018 Posts: 391	Teensy little flowers shot on an original Q iso 200 1/800s with a 5 megapixel 8mm CS lens fixed aperture. Maybe F2 ish? Keep cranking to focus very close up.

08-29-2019, 12:59 PM - 2 Likes	#28
n3eg New Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Somewhere west of where you are Posts: 22	I did my latest lens cap mod and got a CS long zoom to infinity focus at the wide end, halfway to full zoom. I'm going to see if I can bring it in any closer.

09-10-2020, 02:56 AM	#30
2old4toys Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2018 Posts: 391	Picked up a made in Japan 6mm f1.4 CS mount lens that I’m hoping to use with my Q’s. Typical for CCTV lenses, it had a wire coming out of it that I removed along with the motor mechanism so I can manually (rather than electrically) adjust via the built in aperture slider. Once I could open the aperture, what threw me was what looks to be an internal concentric ND filter buried inside the optics. Any ideas what it’s for and how I’d get it out?