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03-25-2013, 05:28 PM - 1 Like   #16
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Tiny amounts of camera shake will look like being out of focus, the more you magnify the subject the more you magnify the effects of vibration, and it's the 1650mm figure that matters. Either use the 2 second timer or an IR trigger to trip the shutter.

Having no shutter mechanism means that every exposure takes 1/13th of a second, the time the Q takes to scan the sensor which adds to the problem. That's an age for such long lenses. I can even see the effects of a heavy vehicle passing my house 50 yards away during the exposure which always gives me a soft image.

The Pentax Q to K adapter get's around this problem totally by incorporating a built in mechanical shutter, but at a higher price than the camera with a lens currently is, and they don't even include the tripod foot which is another $50. But it has put an end to 'soft' images caused by vibration I used to get.

Larry's suggestion of painting the inside of the adapter with a really flat matt black paint does increase contrast noticeably.

Chris

03-25-2013, 05:38 PM   #17
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I often find 2s delay too small with Q and the DA*300, the vibrations takes a while to settle. With a remote there's no issue.
03-25-2013, 05:54 PM   #18
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Yup - the last few shots I ended up using the 12sec timer :/
03-26-2013, 08:46 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by VisualDarkness Quote
I often find 2s delay too small with Q and the DA*300, the vibrations takes a while to settle. With a remote there's no issue.
The only issue I have with the remote is that the range is abysmal. Any remote I use (even the Pentax F remote) needs to be only a couple of inches from the rear sensor. You'd think they could get it to work at least a foot away. But I use it anyway..

03-26-2013, 09:25 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by GibbyTheMole Quote
The only issue I have with the remote is that the range is abysmal. Any remote I use (even the Pentax F remote) needs to be only a couple of inches from the rear sensor. You'd think they could get it to work at least a foot away. But I use it anyway..
I should buy a cheap remote, mod it and put in a really bright IR LED. Maybe it's possible to get decent performance with the cost of bulkiness and battery? Somebody here transformed a remote to an adapter for a wired shutter release and it should be really easy to do.
03-26-2013, 10:11 AM   #21
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Auto 110

I've been getting some good manual results with the Auto 110 lenses and an adaptor I got from the Roxsen Ebay shop. The 18mm is great fun. I use focus peeking and the focus preview to double check.

Dave A.
03-26-2013, 10:48 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by VisualDarkness Quote
I often find 2s delay too small with Q and the DA*300, the vibrations takes a while to settle. With a remote there's no issue.
Agreed. Need to get a better remote.
At our last meetup one of our PF members used a JJC model that worked very well, but I did not test it with the Q.
It is cheap enough to try, just have to get it purchased.
03-26-2013, 11:15 AM   #23
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JJC RM-E3 will trigger from about six inches from behind, and the W/T button triggers the Q focus mechanism very nicely. This is the universal remote that (very conveniently) positions the Pentax buttons at the top.

The problem with the rear sensor, apparently, has more to do with narrow acceptance angle than range - at least with the JJC. I can't imagine how often I would need more than a few inches shooting from behind the camera.

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