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03-24-2013, 08:38 PM   #1
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Manual focusing with adapted lens

Apologies if this has been asked before.

I need some help with manual focusing and adapted lenses.
So my Jinfinance adapter showed up today. I rushed home, stuck it on with my Sigma 70-300, mounted it to a tripod, and set teh focal length to 1650 and off I went.
But no matter how hard I try and what MF Assis Magnification I use I cannot get a focused image. Be it relatively close (say, 5>10m) or way off in the distance.
My eyesight is pretty ordinary to begin with, but when I got the Q I just assumed that I would still get the focus lock 'beep' even in MF like I do on my K5.

Am I doing something atrociously wrong?

- Lurch

03-24-2013, 09:08 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lurch Quote
Apologies if this has been asked before.

I need some help with manual focusing and adapted lenses.
So my Jinfinance adapter showed up today. I rushed home, stuck it on with my Sigma 70-300, mounted it to a tripod, and set teh focal length to 1650 and off I went.
But no matter how hard I try and what MF Assis Magnification I use I cannot get a focused image. Be it relatively close (say, 5>10m) or way off in the distance.
My eyesight is pretty ordinary to begin with, but when I got the Q I just assumed that I would still get the focus lock 'beep' even in MF like I do on my K5.

Am I doing something atrociously wrong?

- Lurch
I don't think you're going to get a beep, but with focus peaking you should be able to tell when things are in focus!

Adam
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03-24-2013, 09:23 PM   #3
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Well, I can. It looks all good on the screen, but everything comes out super soft/massively out of focus.
Thinking it was the lens, I put on my crystal clear old Asahi 200/5.6 and ditto, if not worse.




Or even something significantly closer



Last edited by Lurch; 03-24-2013 at 09:29 PM.
03-24-2013, 10:02 PM   #4
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It is tough and takes some getting used to in my experience.

I find that just looking at the LCD screen + focusing peaking isn't enough to get a clear photo w/ a manual focus lens.

The setup that I see works very well is a LCD Loupe, Focus peaking, x4 focus zoom (forgot the correct term for this on the camera). Once you are in that x4 zoom then you can use the keypad to move around to different parts of your photo to see which part you want to get in focus.

almost everyone I see here with crisp photos usually use this setup. You can invest a lot of money into this but you can go budget too. There are a few magnetic bracket loupes out there for under 10 bucks that work great.

03-24-2013, 10:03 PM   #5
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Hmm - shame; cause it starts to ruin the quick and easiness of the Q
03-24-2013, 10:04 PM   #6
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I don't mean to derail this thread at all but you said you set your focal length to 1650. This is because of 300 x the 5.5 crop factor right? I haven't been doing this at all. I just would put 300mm. Now, is this just information that is written onto the data of the image or is there a technical purpose for doing this?
03-24-2013, 10:07 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lurch Quote
Hmm - shame; cause it starts to ruin the quick and easiness of the Q
You would think so but the bracket and screw add very little volume to the camera. You can shoot normally without the loupe on and then when you need it for those long distance shots then you snap it on. It is not impossible to take in focus photos with a manual lens but I imagine it takes a lot of practice. I am not there yet. Although I tend to get in focus photos of people with out the loupe! I can rarely do it with any landscape, bird, or flora shots. Not sure why that is.
03-24-2013, 10:20 PM   #8
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First off you need to set focal length to the lens actual because it tells the camera how much shake reduction to use.
Use 300 for your zoom or the actual focal length you will be using.

To help with focusing turn on the focus assist option using the menu , along with focus peaking.
Activate focus assist by hitting OK.

Lenses that are sharpest at f8 or f11 will look blurry because of diffraction on the Q.

Check the sticky thread Adapted Lenses to see how your particular lens has fared on the Q in testing by other users.

03-24-2013, 10:22 PM   #9
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Ahh - ok.
So when it asks for the focal length, you dont put in the 'calculated' focal length, but the *ACTUAL* focal length?
Gotchya.
03-24-2013, 11:46 PM   #10
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Didnt really make much difference, at least not with the 70-300 APO DG


03-25-2013, 12:16 AM   #11
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Maybe the 70-300 just isn't up to par for the resolution needed? I shoot with the Q, adapter and a lens on a tripod, nothing else added.
03-25-2013, 12:48 AM   #12
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Perhaps; yeah :/
03-25-2013, 07:58 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by VisualDarkness Quote
Maybe the 70-300 just isn't up to par for the resolution needed? I shoot with the Q, adapter and a lens on a tripod, nothing else added.
I've generally had mediocre luck with 35mm lenses adapted to the Q. I've tried the Industar 61 and Jupiter 11 in M39 format; and the Yashica 50mm f/1.9 and f/2, Vivitar 55mm f/2.1, Accura 35mm f/2.8, Soligor 28mm f/2.8, and the well-regarded SMC Takumar 50mm f/1.4 in M42. They've all been somewhat soft/lacking in resolution at 100% on the Q, even the Takumar, though that fares the best of any of the full-size lenses.

Some of the cine lenses I've tested - particularly the D-mount Elgeet Cine Navitar 38mm, Wollensak Cine Telephoto 17mm, Taylor-Hobson 25mm, and the C-mount Cosmicar 25mm and Bausch & Lomb 50mm - have been significantly sharper. Add in the smaller size, and I'm making them the emphasis on my Q kit.
03-25-2013, 08:34 AM - 1 Like   #14
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The Q's tiny sensor is demanding on lenses. The best results from one I have tested are from the DA*300.
The lens needs to be sharp and fast on it's own.

In your picture above I'm also noticing a bit of haze or smoky look. We have found that some of the third party adapters require painting the internal with flat black to reduce reflections which cause this hazy look.
It won't help with the blurriness that is due to diffraction.

My testing with a Tamron 70-300 was similar to your results.
03-25-2013, 11:19 AM   #15
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From my limited experience, it is difficult to generalize about how a lens will perform even if you have a good idea on a regular crop sensor. Some of my older glass does better than I would have expected. For instance two of my m-series lenses have performed particularly well - the 50mm f/1.4 yielded the sharpest photo I have yet taken, and the 75-150 f/4 is better than expected. These shots have been corrected for sharpness and contrast, but the 50mm is so good that no CA removal was necessary.

50mm f/1.4 at f/4 - Max my dog: Q miscellany - James Robins - Powered by Phanfare

Despite the lower dialed in value in EXIF, the zoom was shot at 150mmm f/5.0 - backyard bird: Q miscellany - James Robins - Powered by Phanfare

The second shot simply would not have been possible without a loupe (2.8x v5 version for the Nikon Series 1). I have modified the loupe with foam on the frame to provide extra distance to the body (no diopter on these economy units), and that also protects the body from abrasion; works very nicely. Even with very limited Q experience shooting long lenses, I am getting better bird shots than previously on the K-01 or particularly with dSLRs. Focus peaking and a loupe are great tools.

The 16-45 is very good despite being only f/4 and its reputation for a nasty CA. In the center of the image it is particularly good, and that comes through. The FA35 isn't as good as would be expected, and CA is a problem to at least f/4. So, I would say that it is worth testing your better, faster zooms - but don't discount lenses that yield a constant f/4. The relative compactness of the 16-45 and the 75-150 make them very attractive for field use.

Last edited by ScooterMaxi Jim; 03-25-2013 at 02:44 PM. Reason: Adapter not fully open - f/stop not correctly cited
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