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02-05-2014, 08:01 AM   #1
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 25
My new camera: the Q

The Q makes me think of Star Trek, however....

I felt like I needed an extreme wildlife solution (mainly small European birds). After calculating how many years it would take me to save up for a SigMonster I came to a video where someone had combined the Q with a Samyang 650-1300mm and actually the result was ... bad of course, but not that bad for something you could get, being lucky on the second hand market, for 200€ .
Since I have a high quality 70-200 f2.8 lens (not Pentax) with 2X and 1,4X teleconverters I thought letting the crop sensor capturing good input from the lens would probably work (I did see some examples of this). Maybe not getting professional grade pictures, but something fantastic for an enthusiast like me and with a solution that is a lot more portable.

So now I'm waiting for my Kiwi adapter with aperture control to test it. If this one does not do the trick (apparently aperture control is limited to 3 positions) but shows enough promise I'll probably go Novoflex for the adapter.
Other things on my list are an LCD viewfinder and if the 2" timer does not do the trick a not offical remote control (that is my long lens technique, not touching).
I already ordered an official Pentax spare battery, since just setting up my system drained the battery.

My current set-up:
- AF, but on the green button in the back with focus tracking
- Shutter priority (so I get shots)
- Central zone metering
- Manual settings, but probably will go aperture control in the field.
- Raw, but it seems I need to go to JPG for Hi continuous shooting.
- My 70-200 will be on a ballhead, might want to go to a Gimbal if that does not work out, already got quite upset last weekend on how slow I was to track wildlife with the ballhead.

By the way I have the Pentax-02 5-15mm zoom. I would like to add to that a foreign lens (shared with my DSLR system), at this moment that will be my Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 with TC 1.4x for a 16-22mm f4, but I might go for a cheap second hand Sigma 18-125mm which should give an insane 35mm equivalent reach.

02-05-2014, 08:37 AM   #2
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Location: St Louis, MO
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Welcome to the forum, and the Q club Vince!
Have you checked out this thread?
It should give you some insight on what to expect from tele shooting with the Q.
02-05-2014, 08:48 AM   #3
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Welcome to Q ownership.
If you are serious about adapted K Tele lenses you should buy the Pentax adapter.
The built in leaf shutter and fine aperture control are very useful.
A solid support will also be needed.
02-05-2014, 12:31 PM   #4
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Location: Michigan, USA
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Welcome, the reach was my main reason to getting the Q, it's a ball to shoot

02-06-2014, 11:40 PM   #5
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 25
Original Poster
No adapter yet, so started testing with the Pentax-02 5-15mm lens:

Control via DslrDaxhboard does not seem to work, my android device sees the camera as a disk, not a devise it can control.

Picture developed in Silkpix 15mm 4" F/7,1 ISO-125, all manual settings shot from tripod:

The 2" delay worked well on a sturdy tripod.
The text seems clear, but I do see something on the car I do not like. IŽll have to see on future pictures.

---------- Post added 02-07-14 at 09:15 AM ----------

Current rig, a bit unbalanced :

02-07-2014, 06:33 AM   #6
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by Vince_Lux Quote
Kiwi adapter with aperture control to test it. If this one does not do the trick (apparently aperture control is limited to 3 positions)
The Kiwifoto adapter NK(G)-PQ with aperture control arrived just before I left for work, I have not looked at the pictures on the big screen, but my first impression is good using a 50mm and a 80-205mm. I'll be able to add to the Adapted lenses tested on the Q soon.
The aperture control works in continuous mode from full open (lowest aperture number on the on mark) onto fully closed (off mark), so you do not really know where you are, but it works.
You mount the lens in "on" mode as I expected.

@robtcorl yes I had seen it, that is the thread that pops up when you google this, very interesting, I'll try to post my better rig there soon.

Last edited by Vince_Lux; 02-08-2014 at 01:51 AM.
02-08-2014, 02:03 AM   #7
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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Original Poster
So testing further yesterday evening, I took this from more then 800m as a detail of a building, very impressive, I had to travel 650m closer to see the same detail with the bare eye:

I do believe that I forgot to use the sweet spot of my lens during testing, that would be 20mm under maximum focus length and 2 stops down when using the TC 2X. So I did not like all of the results yesterday.

The main learning point was that with adapter and foreign lens the slowest shutter speed on the Pentax Q will be 2" (no shutter in the lens).
My idea yesterday was cityscape at night with extreme telephoto, but the telephoto FOV of 2200mm equivalent was too extreme, it was too dark from my position and night photo with slowest shutter of 2" seems insufficient at base ISO.

The 2" timer works well, the ballhead was not convincing, but will do for the moment.
02-24-2014, 09:44 AM   #8
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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Original Poster
The issue I seem to have is concerning focus; taking in account the depth of field at high magnification.

My sensor + lens + adapter combination seems OK: my test was to turn a video starting from focus, go out of focus to infinity, coming to a too close focus (giving an out of focus image), ending up in focus again. That is what happens in the video and the focus attained between the out of focus images is acceptable (for my not top professional gear) and I seem to end in focus.

I was worried about how my lens moves when I stop manual focus and go to triggering the shutter by remote control.
Looking at calculation: A Flexible Depth of Field Calculator this should not put my subject out of focus. The movement only will make the life view image blurry.

Something I did not think about is this: On most digital cameras the Live-View image is generated by sub-sampling the sensor. Most cannot read the entire pixels fast enough to resfresh the Live-View fast enough. This means the LCD view which is usually with magnification is interpolated.
=> So the image you see on the LCD is not the information of the sensor but an interpretation of the processor of that image.

My new "technique":

1) Without magnification, I generally do not see enough to focus on the detail, the eyes of the animal in general, so I keep using magnification.
2) I need to stabilise (position of my arms) the long lens during focussing to increase the accuracy of the LCD image.
3) When I believe I reached focus, I should wait a while to let the LCD stabilise and verify the focus, while still applying 2.
4) Stop the lens down for optimal sharpness.
5) Use the 2s timer for release.
6) open the lens up for refocussing.

The last thing I'm worried about is that the manual focus ring on my lens is too sensitive for my clumsy fingers, not clear if a shaking movement (forward/backward focus) might give more precise movement. Since I have a top lens abused with a teleconverter, the focus ring is not the issue, my fingers are the issue.

P.S.: I was trying to justify the purchance of a Manfrotto 393 (Gimbal) + Manfrotto 293 (long lens support), but I seem to have missed my goal. However I do think these will increase the shots I can make.


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