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07-28-2014, 05:00 AM   #16
GUB
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QuoteOriginally posted by 35millimeter Quote
For macro work would it be worth trying one of the LED ring lights (like this one)? Should help with focussing too.
Yeah that would probably do the trick.

07-29-2014, 01:36 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by 35millimeter Quote
For macro work would it be worth trying one of the LED ring lights (like this one)? Should help with focussing too.
Now that I have created a work around and after thinking about this LED ring it finally has become blindingly obvious to me why enabling manual flash would be pointless folly.
No doubt heaps of you have already worked this out

Take minimum sensitivity of ISO 125
Fastest shutter of 1/13 sec
Maximum stop down of f8 before diffarction kicks in too much.

Then on a sunny day (EV 15 - 16) the ambient daylight would create overexposure of up to 6 stops without any flash added.
In twilight conditions (EV10) the exposure would be about right without any flash added.
Any thing darker than that and focussing becomes an issue.

Which is why they invented continuous LED ring lights like the one above which pretty well solves all the above issues.

Sometimes improvising your old gear is just not going to work
Still what a great excuse to go out and buy a new toy
07-29-2014, 03:07 AM   #18
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I'll be perfectly honest here - I bought that LED ring light for my K-500 becasue for the price it seemed rude not to, that and the fact proper ring light flashes are quite expensive. I don't think the lens adapters go down as far as 40.5mm for the Q, but I'm sure a cheap step up ring would sort that out.
07-29-2014, 11:31 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by GUB Quote
Now that I have created a work around and after thinking about this LED ring it finally has become blindingly obvious to me why enabling manual flash would be pointless folly.
No doubt heaps of you have already worked this out

Take minimum sensitivity of ISO 125
Fastest shutter of 1/13 sec
Maximum stop down of f8 before diffarction kicks in too much.

Then on a sunny day (EV 15 - 16) the ambient daylight would create overexposure of up to 6 stops without any flash added.
In twilight conditions (EV10) the exposure would be about right without any flash added.
Any thing darker than that and focussing becomes an issue.

Which is why they invented continuous LED ring lights like the one above which pretty well solves all the above issues.

Sometimes improvising your old gear is just not going to work
Still what a great excuse to go out and buy a new toy
This is why I didn't hesitate when the Pentax K2Q adapter came out, even though it is pricey. The advantages of such a small light camera that can use lenses with a viable working distance for live critters and the virtual magnification advantage (a 7mm subject fills the frame horizontally at 1:1) makes the Q a natural for hand held macros with flash if you can get a reasonable sync speed, and the only way to get it is with the shutter included in the Pentax OEM adapter. Actually, with the OEM adapter, better than reasonable sync speeds are available -- up to 1/1000 with the onboard flash (the working distance, especially with a longer dedicated macro makes this more practical to use, even with the relatively shallow angle) and 1/250 with an external flash.

The problem with most compacts with a macro mode, using reversed lenses, or bellows/tubes is that the working distance for extreme macros is so close. With the Q's crop factor, I get a virtual 3.6:1 magnification bump, keeping the native MFD of my DSLR dedicated macro lenses, or can back off to almost 1:4 focusing distance and get the same subject to frame relationship as I get with my DSLR at MFD with the same lens. This makes covering the subject with flash a lot easier, and the Q's size and weight makes it a lot easier to hold in those awkward positions usually required.

An alternative to the available ring flashes might be the Metz 15 MS-1 Macro. It's pricey, and not really a ring flash (really a dual tube flash in a ring like enclosure), but it fires wirelessy with an optical trigger that can be set to trigger off the onboard flash, disregarding the pre flash, and is wireless TTL compatible with virtually all of the major digital TTL protocols, so could be used with just about any other brand camera.

Another alternative I've found is using two Sunpak PF20XD digital slave flashes (they're tiny) on brackets triggered with the main (second) flash from the pop up flash. -- no TTL metering, but they have five setable power levels as well as auto thyristor metering built in. One of these can also be carried easily and used in the hotshoe on the Q if you need a bit more power than the pop up can deliver.

Oh yes, and triggering a manual, non dedicated auto thyristor flash, or flash triggers is possible with the Q with the OEM adapter -- you need to turn the flash off in the flash menu.

Scott


Last edited by snostorm; 07-29-2014 at 11:40 AM.
07-29-2014, 12:01 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by snostorm Quote
This is why I didn't hesitate when the Pentax K2Q adapter came out, even though it is pricey. The advantages of such a small light camera that can use lenses with a viable working distance for live critters and the virtual magnification advantage (a 7mm subject fills the frame horizontally at 1:1) makes the Q a natural for hand held macros with flash if you can get a reasonable sync speed, and the only way to get it is with the shutter included in the Pentax OEM adapter. ...
Thanks! This is very useful advice. Would you perhaps have a galery showing your Q macros?

Comparing the K-01 to the Q7, I believe the ratio between the two cameras is more like 2.7:1 (rather than the 3.6:1 you quote) - this is because the Q7 has a 12mp sensor. A 12MP crop on the 16MP K-01 at 1:1 would be about 20.5mm wide, vrs the Q7's 7.6mm wide 12MP sensor. (BTW, is that correct? Some sites seems to indicate a 1/1.7" sensor is typically 9.5mm wide...)

Still, 2.7:1 is a very significant advantage. One should be able to shoot subjects that require pretty "exotic" solutions on APS-C with just a good macro lens and a Raynox. At just 2:1 you're already getting a frame that is under 4mm wide.

But does noise kill that advantage? I was looking at the Q7 review on DPReview, and for both jpg and raw, there's a HUGE difference in noise at equivalent isos. ISO200 on the Q7 looks comparable to iso 800 on the K-01, which is my personal limit of comfort on the K-01 - I'll only shoot iso 1600 if there's no other option...

Anyhow, so I'm still weighing the options. Costco Canada is still running their $250 for a Q7 plus 02 zoom combo, so with taxes and the adapter purchased from an American source, a Q7 macro setup would cost me about $600. That's still a fair amount of money...

Last edited by Doundounba; 07-29-2014 at 03:28 PM. Reason: typo
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