Originally posted by Lowell Goudge I find fringing is most apparent on slightly missed focus shots, using the 4x focusing aid is a big help, but takes a little technique to manage 4x focus zoom with a FF equivalent lens of 750-1000mm
Exactly what I have discovered with the various M tele lenses I have. You only need to have focus a little out (maybe even still just within the outer bounds of the available depth of field) and the aberrations quickly become noticable. Contrast seems to be another victim of slight mis-focus. Nail the focus exactly and aberrations diminish dramatically and contrast also lifts. A few (as in 2 or 3) millimetres on the focus ring can make all the difference. When I can I now use live view with focus magnification. That's ok if the camera is on a tripod but somewhere between damned difficult and impossible if handholding with a long lens (eg 300mm which is really 450mm on APS-C, so 9x magnification, and then layer on top of that 10x live view focus magnification so 90x magnification in total), whilst handholding the lot around a foot (30cm) in front of oneself in order to view the rear screen). Even if the K-3's focus peaking at 1x magnification makes you think a long lens is focussed correctly, shift to 10x and I generally find that further focus fine turning is necessary.
I had thought quite poorly of the M200 but then spent a day with it in Melbourne late last year. I worked hard that day on accurate focussing and discovered it was a lot better that my initial opinion.
The first half of this post on my photo blog was with the M200:
Melbourne by Twilight | Photo Morsels
There's a section towards the bottom of the post where I describe the camera gear I used, and lo and behold, I commented there about the need for accurate focus!
PS I need to update my signature - I've just received a M400/5.6. Now I'm really going to get pushed on technique!