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11-13-2014, 10:03 AM - 2 Likes   #1
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Q accessories and hoods - DIY-itis

I'm new to the Q and only acquired it to play with the super-tele opportunities with older M-class lenses but finding it surprisingly capable for its sensor size. Matrix metering has been generally good under most outdoor conditions after tweaking the +/- EV a bit.

I agree with the comments about flare. Not much you can do about on-axis flare (source within the FOV) but shading the front elements with ANYTHING makes a noticeable improvement in highlight bloom and lose of contrast owing to off-axis, incident light sources.

My first 'fix' has been to get a half a dozen cheap 40.5mm UV filters, remove the glass and 'MacGyver' some compact/pancake hoods. Some spare rear lens and body caps offer additional ideas. Stacking lens/body caps with a 'donut hole' to produce an extension ring hasn't been successful yet with Q lenses - maybe with a Pk-Q adapter?

- Simply stack a few empty filter rings for starters. You can easily add more until vignetting is evident as the FL of the lens increases.

- Epoxying/super gluing various small containers (cut out center of course) to the filter rings produces some interesting custom hoods. Think any of the small single-serve condiment containers with flat black spray paint or black Magic Marker.

- Replacing the filter glass with a card- fiberboard disk with a rectangular aperture determined by trial and error (mostly error!) produces a pancake type hood similar to small DA lenses. Stacking rings to lengthen the "hood" helps compensate for longer FLs. (taping across a round hole to make masks easy to experiment with vignetting.)

One body cap is being prepped to experiment with pin-hole camera disks. (Hole size and spacers for registration distance?)

+5 mag glass has filter retaining ring super glued to rim to make a diopter close-up filter.

The beauty of the Q system is its compact size - a hood of any traditional size makes it noticeably more awkward to carry and use.

I'm already looking to the Q10/Q7 body style and the larger Q7 sensor as a useful upgrade.

Unfortunately, the 06 lens has noticeably better IQ than the 02 but not so different as to be noticed under many conditions unless there's a direct side-by-side comparison.

I've found the Delkin 3" LCD hood to be a very useful device, but drilled a 1/8" hole in it to check whether I left the camera on or not. Lookin' for a light-weight magnifying optic that might clip to the hood somehow.

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Last edited by pacerr; 11-13-2014 at 10:10 AM.
11-13-2014, 10:25 AM   #2
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Hank, you are amazing.
11-13-2014, 10:29 AM   #3
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Seems Q owners like to DIY quite a bit! Nice stuff
11-13-2014, 10:35 AM   #4
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Pretty much a fan of DIY myself... although not at that level...
The Q seems to have a very active and creative following!

11-13-2014, 02:20 PM   #5
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What do these do that this inexpensive rubber ducky (lens hood for those under the age of 40) can’t??

40 5mm Professional Soft Rubber Lens Hood Nikon 1 V1 10mm 10 30mm 30 110mm 40 5 | eBay

It can be used completely collapsed for the 02 lens, partially extended for the 01 lens or fully extended for the 06 lens and will absorb a reasonable blow if you accidentally hit the lens on something solid. See https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/136-pentax-q/270486-flexible-lens-hood-shade.html
11-13-2014, 05:33 PM   #6
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pacerr IS amazing , bcb -- and he doesn't even get jelly all over the lens !
11-13-2014, 09:34 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by CWRailman Quote
What do these do that this inexpensive rubber ducky . can’t?
Mmmm . . . no postage due? No risk of allergic reaction to rubber compounds? Independence from fluctuations in the world economy?

The rectangular aperture mask IS a more effective 'hood' than a minimal length, circular hood on wide lenses.

But that rubber ducky does look like a useful addition to the Q-bag. A coupl'a stacked filter rings might even tweak 'em a bit at the long end. I'd already ordered one to try 'em but it hasn't arrived yet -- although that suggests that makin' Q-pix might be more fun than messin' about in the junk parts drawer.

What I really want though is a reliable way of keepin' track of those itty-bitty lens caps. Been workin' on that solution for half a century now.


QuoteQuote:
. . . get jelly all over the lens . . .
Certainly not. Everyone knows you rub Vasoline on the filter glass (to make a soft portrait filter), not jelly on the lens!

Last edited by pacerr; 11-13-2014 at 09:49 PM.
11-13-2014, 10:21 PM   #8
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Cool diy pacerr. Like the idea of drilling a hole in the screen shade. Never would have thought of that.

I took two 40.5 UV filters and removed the glass. Removed one retaining ring. Screwed the other retaining ring out slightly past the edge of the filter. So half the retaining ring is sticking out to accept the other filter body. This gives a male/male coupler allowing a 40.5 lens to be reverse stacked on a Q lens. 50mm Nikkor enlarging lens was a perfect fit. Used on the 02 you get a super macro lens. It does vignette. On the 06 there is less vignetting. If I had the rare Q extension tube there would be no vignetting. The two filters can always be returned to normal.
thanks
barondla

The Q is fun.

11-13-2014, 11:04 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by barondla Quote
. . . the rare Q extension tube . . .
I've got a "bad habit" of using body and rear lens caps in conjunction with slip-fit plastic tubes and epoxy glue to build extension tubes and reverse adapters. It's easy, and economical, to mix and match various brands of caps to make odd lens-to-PK mount pairings.* Slip-fit tubes can actually act as bellows for varying extension lengths. On the web there's a chart for all lens/mount registration standards that's a useful reference at:

http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~westin/misc/mounts-by-register.html

Using the retainer ring for a union joint is a good tip for future dis-assembly and the Q-components are so light weight that structural strength isn't a problem. I've always glued the rings beak-to-beak for larger gear.

Eventually I'm going to make some pin-hole disks to fit on the bored-out body cap. One problem is the Q doesn't have the Bulb shutter speed mode (30 sec max) needed for many long pin-hole exposures. And, it also occurs to me that an asymmetric (not centered) pin-hole would duplicate a shift lens. Anyone have any thoughts or experience on those ideas?

A Forstner-type woodworking bit in a drill press makes a nice, clean 'donut-hole' in plastic lens/body caps. Keurig coffee pods, yogurt cups and the icing cups packaged with bake-your-own cinnamon rolls are interesting sized raw material for Q-stuff.

*Just for the hullavit, one of these days I'll build a Mamiya M645-to-Q adapter! My adapter for PK mount works fine.

Last edited by pacerr; 11-14-2014 at 08:46 AM.
11-14-2014, 08:18 AM   #10
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Ok I will add to the DYI-Qtis stuff. I constructed this Argus (C3) adapter to Q mount for my Argus C3 100mm and 50mm lenses. I used the aluminum rear cap for the lens and drilled it out then glued a C mount extension tube set to the rear cap. I added tubes to get it to focus, got it close to the correct standoff then glued the mess together. It will focus beyond infinity but still will close focus so it's close. The setup works well but not as sharp as my SMC M 135 f3.5 and the 50 is not as sharp as my SMC A 50 but it was fun. It is a small lens max aperture of f4.5 when stopped down to f5.6 it's not bad. It makes a small 560mm equiv. package on my Q







Shot with the Argus 100mm lens


Shot with a long zoom P&S camera at max zoom


OK the P&S out did the Argus but not by much, it was a fun job, when you consider the Argus is from the early 60's it puts it into perspective.
11-14-2014, 08:21 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by hnikesch Quote
Ok I will add to the DYI-Qtis stuff. I constructed this Argus (C3) adapter to Q mount for my Argus C3 100mm and 50mm lenses. I used the aluminum rear cap for the lens and drilled it out then glued a C mount extension tube set to the rear cap. I added tubes to get it to focus, got it close to the correct standoff then glued the mess together. It will focus beyond infinity but still will close focus so it's close. The setup works well but not as sharp as my SMC M 135 f3.5 and the 50 is not as sharp as my SMC A 50 but it was fun. It is a small lens max aperture of f4.5 when stopped down to f5.6 it's not bad. It makes a small 560mm equiv. package on my Q

*snip*
*shivers*... I take it that the inside of the rear cap is threaded and you can screw the lens on it... otherwise isn't it going to fall off?
11-14-2014, 08:44 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by hnikesch Quote
OK the P&S out did the Argus . . .
Nice little rig. I believe if you take into account the actual plane of focus and apparent DOF for each shot the Q was at the very least equal - and sharper and better contrast too, IMO.

I'm hopin' my Super Tak 105/2.8 does as well.
11-14-2014, 09:38 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by LensBeginner Quote
*shivers*... I take it that the inside of the rear cap is threaded and you can screw the lens on it... otherwise isn't it going to fall off?
Yes it was threaded, back on the 60's no one used plastic push on caps everything was machined.

---------- Post added 11-14-2014 at 11:54 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by pacerr Quote
Nice little rig. I believe if you take into account the actual plane of focus and apparent DOF for each shot the Q was at the very least equal - and sharper and better contrast too, IMO.

I'm hopin' my Super Tak 105/2.8 does as well.
Thanks, the lens should do well, see link below from adapted lens database

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/136-pentax-q/209474-adapted-lenses-tested...ml#post2728926
11-20-2014, 03:12 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by pacerr Quote
Eventually I'm going to make some pin-hole disks to fit on the bored-out body cap. One problem is the Q doesn't have the Bulb shutter speed mode (30 sec max) needed for many long pin-hole exposures. And, it also occurs to me that an asymmetric (not centered) pin-hole would duplicate a shift lens. Anyone have any thoughts or experience on those ideas?
The Q does have bulb mode (just keep turning to longer times until you get there). There are two problems with it though: It isn't available without a shutter (and in fact the max time without a shutter is two seconds, not 30). And there's no way to keep it open except holding the button (remotes don't work with one click to open and another to close).

Both quite sad. There's a workaround for longer times without a shutter though: Stack images. If you like jpegs you can use the multi exposure feature for up to nine images. If you like RAW I made a program to stack the raw files (before developing them). I don't really recommend it, it's not exactly polished, plus it's slow (written in python with little regard for speed). But it's there.
11-20-2014, 03:47 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by drougge Quote
The Q does have bulb mode (just keep turning to longer times until you get there). There are two problems with it though: It isn't available without a shutter (and in fact the max time without a shutter is two seconds, not 30). And there's no way to keep it open except holding the button (remotes don't work with one click to open and another to close).

Both quite sad. There's a workaround for longer times without a shutter though: Stack images. If you like jpegs you can use the multi exposure feature for up to nine images. If you like RAW I made a program to stack the raw files (before developing them). I don't really recommend it, it's not exactly polished, plus it's slow (written in python with little regard for speed). But it's there.
That looks an interesting and promisingpiece of software!
I think I'll give it a spin... I've got a K-01 so I can sum exposures more or less as I please, but I love custom solutions and the ability to do things on my PC with ease instead of in-camera...
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