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04-03-2016, 10:54 AM   #1
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Problem with badly overexposed shots

I got a problem yesterday with my Q which leads to some badly overexposed shots. I've looked at it and the Exifs, but found nothing that could explained why these shots were so overexposed (by eyes, a good 2-3 stops overexposure). The speed looks way too slow for this king of midday shot (between 1/250 and 1/500 at f2.8, ISO 125), but I've no idea on what may have fooled the metering. Even stranger, the background was snow which usually leads to underexposed shots and not overexposure. Thus, I was quite surprised to find many overexposed shots from this day!

Here's an example, exif are still in the picture. It's directly from the raw, with no adjustment applied. Av mode, multizone metering.



Anyone has an idea on what may have been the source of this overexposure ?

04-03-2016, 11:15 AM   #2
dms
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Maybe you were in spot metering mode--metering the black cap would result in likely 2-3 stops overexposure?

Sorry--I did not read carefully--you said multi-zone!

BTW if you applied no adjustments, the face/cap are not badly exposed. Maybe the multi-zone (aka Matrix metering) is the cause. It generally uses some kind of "fuzzy" logic to try and guess what exposure is needed, and thus can sometimes be odd.** That is one reason I tend to use center weighted (or spot) as I can look at the scene and make an assessment and an ev bias.
_____
** Actually the exposure is not so odd--given the large DR/bright background. It picked an exposure that maybe is 1/2 to 1 stop overexposed for the face (because of that black cap), which is pretty impressive.

Last edited by dms; 04-03-2016 at 11:33 AM.
04-03-2016, 11:47 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by CarlJF Quote
I got a problem yesterday with my Q which leads to some badly overexposed shots. I've looked at it and the Exifs, but found nothing that could explained why these shots were so overexposed (by eyes, a good 2-3 stops overexposure). The speed looks way too slow for this king of midday shot (between 1/250 and 1/500 at f2.8, ISO 125), but I've no idea on what may have fooled the metering. Even stranger, the background was snow which usually leads to underexposed shots and not overexposure. Thus, I was quite surprised to find many overexposed shots from this day!

Here's an example, exif are still in the picture. It's directly from the raw, with no adjustment applied. Av mode, multizone metering.

Anyone has an idea on what may have been the source of this overexposure ?
This is a very difficult picture, seriously straining the dynamic range. There are dark areas and light areas, but not much in the middle. Even if I were taking this picture using manual control, I would have troubles getting it right If I were taking this picture, I would probably use the built-in HDR; the result is a JPG image, but my experience has been that I can read it into gimp to readjust contrasts and then write it out without losing anything noticeable.
04-03-2016, 11:54 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by dms Quote
Maybe you were in spot metering mode--metering the black cap would result in likely 2-3 stops overexposure?
This is exactly what I thought when I saw the picture: it was in spot or center weighted metering and took exposure for the black cap. This is what put me the check in the exif data, which confirmed that the exposure was set in multizone.

04-03-2016, 01:17 PM   #5
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On AV mode you might have accidently had + exposure compensation activated. Not hard to do accidentally with the small buttons on the Q!
Thanks
barondla
04-03-2016, 02:26 PM   #6
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Actually for this sort of shot the camera metered as best it can in the patterning averaging mode as it appears light was bouncing all around from various reflective surfaces. Did you use a lens hood? I would have used, as I always do, the spot metering mode and metered on the skin then adjusted exposure compensation to pull in some of the background.You can always use Lightroom to lighten up the darker tones such as the hat but it is difficult to pull in the areas that are burned out. I downloaded this image and dropped the exposure 1 stop which was an improvement then tried about 1.5 stops and the hat became dark and skin tones about right.
04-03-2016, 02:34 PM   #7
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Whats the jpg like?

There is no "directly from raw" If you're viewing an image it's been transformed by software. Double check ALL settings.

But if m guessing the metering as per above.
04-03-2016, 06:53 PM   #8
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Thanks all!

I guess the high contrast scene gave some trouble to the metering system... Actually, the suggestion of CWRailman to use spotmetering on the skin is probably what would have been the best in this situation.
I've adjusted the exposure and constrast in LR and have been able to get something decent, or at least good enough as a family picture.

QuoteQuote:
On AV mode you might have accidently had + exposure compensation activated.
This is also something that I've checked in the exif and no exposure compensation were applied.

QuoteQuote:
here is no "directly from raw" If you're viewing an image it's been transformed by software.
In the context of this thread, this simply means that the raw has been directly converted to jpg in LR without applying any modification or correction to the exposure. OOC jpg looks about the same.

04-04-2016, 05:25 AM   #9
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I've found that these high-contrast shots outdoors in full sunlight often cause difficulty for my Q7. My response has been to always shoot RAW and always use Highlight Correction (or at least keep it on Auto). You can tell Highlight Correction is working when it gives you blue skies instead of washed-out cyan/aqua skies.

I still find that my photos in Lightroom often appear somewhat over-exposed! I wonder if LR is somehow mis-reading what the camera did with Highlight Correction? With these sunlight shots I have to tweak exposure downward in photo after photo -- but it works well, I can recover highlights easily, and the results generally come out good.

The other thing I have to note about shooting in sunlight is. . . The metering can, in fact, be fooled when you have a dark object (like that cap) in the middle of your shot. If you wanted to be really consistent and accurate with your metering, you'd have to either take an incident light reading, or just put your camera in M mode and meter for conditions (remember the Sunny Sixteen rule?), as if you were using an old manual film camera.

EDIT: Or, of course, when you see this happening you can just dial in some -EV to compensate. The problem with the Q series is that your LCD is probably so washed out that you can't even tell. This is when you want an EVF, or a loupe, or something.

Last edited by Tony Belding; 04-04-2016 at 06:20 AM.
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