[wolfiegirl]

I love the bold monochrome images on the old Q.

I think I used to only shoot jpg on those.

Now that I own a qs1, I've made the first setting on my quick dial as the bold monochrome and made a point of shooting in RAW.

But when I transfer the images to lightroom - they come out in colour...

Do the dial settings only work if you shoot in jpg?

[rgknief60]

Now that I own a qs1, I've made the first setting on my quick dial as the bold monochrome and made a point of shooting in RAW.

But when I transfer the images to lightroom - they come out in colour...

To my knowlege, RAW always saves the full color spectrum. While don't have a QS1, perhaps the PDCU software has a setting for "as shot" that might bring up the bold monocrome, or have that as a preset in the program. I haven't looked.

You could also try and process the raw file in camera and see if bold monocrome is an option.

I'd set the QS1 to RAW+ so both the RAW and bold monocrome JPG are saved to your card. You would have both. The RAW will give you more flexibility in conversion if you don't like the JPG bold monocrome as processed by the camera for a particular image.

[BigMackCam]

That's right... RAW images are saved in their unprocessed state. If you shoot RAW using the "bold monochrome" setting, what you see on the screen while shooting will be in monochrome, and the JPEG thumbnail embedded into the RAW file for preview purposes will also be in monochrome - but the RAW image won't have any of that processing. That's really the point of RAW - what you get is an entirely unprocessed image that you then process yourself. For a bold monochrome effect in Lightroom, select the Black & White processing option and bump up the contrast a fair bit - then fine tune settings as necessary

[wolfiegirl]

Thanks guys. Guess i better make sure i change to raw+ for whenever i want to use the quick dial!

[BigMackCam]

Thanks guys. Guess i better make sure i change to raw+ for whenever i want to use the quick dial!

That's a good idea However, do remember that you can quickly set up a very similar look in Lightroom and then save that as a User Preset. That way, when shooting in RAW, you can apply those settings with just one click...

[wolfiegirl]

That's a good idea However, do remember that you can quickly set up a very similar look in Lightroom and then save that as a User Preset. That way, when shooting in RAW, you can apply those settings with just one click...

*nods

I like the qs1 filters as they are. i always liked the bw bold monochrome. i haven't been able to replicate it, although i will try your suggestion and see what happens.

i do admit that having 2 files of the same thing can get a bit cumbersome. time to experiment a bit, i think.

[BigMackCam]

*nods

I like the qs1 filters as they are. i always liked the bw bold monochrome. i haven't been able to replicate it, although i will try your suggestion and see what happens.

i do admit that having 2 files of the same thing can get a bit cumbersome. time to experiment a bit, i think.

In fact, I've just taken a quick photo on the Q7 (almost identical to your Q-S1) using Bold Monochrome, and then tried to re-create it in Lightroom from the RAW file. The first image below is the straight out of camera JPEG. The second is my quick attempt at recreating it. It's not exactly the same, but pretty darned close.

The idea is to push the light areas into over-exposure, and pull the dark areas into under-exposure, so you get a very high contrast image. I've circled in red the settings you need - you can fine tune them from here as you see fit...

Hope this helps

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[wolfiegirl]

In fact, I've just taken a quick photo on the Q7 (almost identical to your Q-S1) using Bold Monochrome, and then tried to re-create it in Lightroom from the RAW file. The first image below is the straight out of camera JPEG. The second is my quick attempt at recreating it. It's not exactly the same, but pretty darned close.

The idea is to push the light areas into over-exposure, and pull the dark areas into under-exposure, so you get a very high contrast image. I've circled in red the settings you need - you can fine tune them from here as you see fit...

Hope this helps

You are awesome! Thank you!

---------- Post added 12-08-16 at 11:16 PM ----------

Juat having a closer look at your settings. Interesting that you play with the dark and light rather than black, white shadows and highlights, which is what i usually play with. Maybe that's where i was going wrong...

[wissink]

One of the things I love doing with B&W images in LR is to go into the HSL sliders and play around. I often end up with pseudo IResque shots. At least for landscapes.

[BigMackCam]

Juat having a closer look at your settings. Interesting that you play with the dark and light rather than black, white shadows and highlights, which is what i usually play with. Maybe that's where i was going wrong...

If I'm working on "normal" image, I'll use the the Whites and Blacks sliders to set ensure (where possible) that the white and black points are within (often right at the edges of) the histogram, then use the Highlights and Shadows sliders to recover highlight and shadow details as required.

Once I've got an image I'm more or less happy with as a starting point, I'll use the Tone Curve controls to get the creative effect I want. In this instance, it wasn't really necessary to do anything to the basic image, and the effect we were going for is quite extreme, so I just jumped straight into the Tone Curve adjustments

[wolfiegirl]

If I'm working on "normal" image, I'll use the the Whites and Blacks sliders to set ensure (where possible) that the white and black points are within (often right at the edges of) the histogram, then use the Highlights and Shadows sliders to recover highlight and shadow details as required.

Once I've got an image I'm more or less happy with as a starting point, I'll use the Tone Curve controls to get the creative effect I want. In this instance, it wasn't really necessary to do anything to the basic image, and the effect we were going for is quite extreme, so I just jumped straight into the Tone Curve adjustments

Thanks again for the tips on making the black and white work.

I tried shooting RAW+ today in an attempt to get both jpg and raw images with the black and white setting. Complete and utter fail. It takes too long to process onto the card, thereby stalling and making my subjects wait too long (4 year olds are notorious for being impatient). I ended up switching the camera off and on again.

In an attempt to salvage what I had, I had to use the settings you suggested.

They're looking good with a few tweaks here and there for my personal preference. Really appreciate you helping out/sharing and just wanted to acknoweledge your assistance and say thank you again!

Interestingly lightroom didn't detect the jpgs at all. I wonder if I'm using the wrong settings.

Next time I choose to do black and white I think I'll just need to shoot jpg only.

[BigMackCam]

I tried shooting RAW+ today in an attempt to get both jpg and raw images with the black and white setting. Complete and utter fail. It takes too long to process onto the card, thereby stalling and making my subjects wait too long (4 year olds are notorious for being impatient). I ended up switching the camera off and on again.

If speed is of the essence, I'd always suggest shooting either RAW or JPEG only - not both - and use decent spec SD cards. Although some cards are rated as high speed, I've found quite a variance in how quickly they get up to the specified write speed. Some gradually ramp up to the quoted spec during extended write cycles, whilst others get there almost immediately. The difference in real-world performance can be profound. I use Samsung 16GB UHS1 Pro cards in my Q and Q7 with good success.

In an attempt to salvage what I had, I had to use the settings you suggested.

They're looking good with a few tweaks here and there for my personal preference. Really appreciate you helping out/sharing and just wanted to acknoweledge your assistance and say thank you again!

You're most welcome I'm really pleased it got you in the ball-park, and it's great that you've tweaked further to your own preferences. That's what it's all about!

Interestingly lightroom didn't detect the jpgs at all. I wonder if I'm using the wrong settings.

If you want to be able to import JPEG and RAW from the same source folder (whether on a card or your hard drive), go into Edit, Preferences, General (first tab), and in the Import Options section, tick the option for "Treat JPEG files next to RAW files as separate photos". From then on, whenever you import, you'll see both the RAW and JPEG images on your card.

Next time I choose to do black and white I think I'll just need to shoot jpg only.

That would work... however, bear in mind that you can use the Smart Effect B&W setting for RAW-only shooting too. The LCD panel will show the B&W image live, but the captured image will be saved as an unprocessed colour RAW, which you can then apply your favourite Lightroom settings to.

Truthfully, for this kind of extreme-processing photography, JPEG is probably more than adequate, as you're really not too concerned about being able to recover shadows and highlights... but out of habit I prefer to shoot RAW so I have as much flexibility as possible in post-processing.

[wolfiegirl]

If speed is of the essence, I'd always suggest shooting either RAW or JPEG only - not both - and use decent spec SD cards. Although some cards are rated as high speed, I've found quite a variance in how quickly they get up to the specified write speed. Some gradually ramp up to the quoted spec during extended write cycles, whilst others get there almost immediately. The difference in real-world performance can be profound. I use Samsung 16GB UHS1 Pro cards in my Q and Q7 with good success.

I've got class 10 sd cards, in an attempt to write faster... I've always used 'SD sandisk' sd cards, but they keep on breaking on me, so I was thinking of changing brands. Wasn't really sure who else to go with, so thanks for your recommendation. I'll go and look that up.

You're most welcome I'm really pleased it got you in the ball-park, and it's great that you've tweaked further to your own preferences. That's what it's all about!

yes, it definitely gave me a closer starting point than simply clicking on the 'black and white' tab in LR. Or even with some of the presets I had already. None of them were 'bold' enough or had the same... character as bold monochrome, Q-style...

If you want to be able to import JPEG and RAW from the same source folder (whether on a card or your hard drive), go into Edit, Preferences, General (first tab), and in the Import Options section, tick the option for "Treat JPEG files next to RAW files as separate photos". From then on, whenever you import, you'll see both the RAW and JPEG images on your card.

That would work... however, bear in mind that you can use the Smart Effect B&W setting for RAW-only shooting too. The LCD panel will show the B&W image live, but the captured image will be saved as an unprocessed colour RAW, which you can then apply your favourite Lightroom settings to.

Truthfully, for this kind of extreme-processing photography, JPEG is probably more than adequate, as you're really not too concerned about being able to recover shadows and highlights... but out of habit I prefer to shoot RAW so I have as much flexibility as possible in post-processing.

interesting. but the lag to read time makes me think i might not bother. but good to know i can do it! i was wondering where the jpgs had gone.. even with the raw+ selected.

i agree the more flexibility the better re post processing. but if shooting raw means i don't get to see any of the quick dial settings... then what's the point, right? *sigh*

i'll try and be brave with the jpgs for a bit and see if I'll be happy or not. I guess I just don't trust my technique enough yet to fly jpg-solo without knowing i could potentially save a shot in raw.

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[BigMackCam]

i agree the more flexibility the better re post processing. but if shooting raw means i don't get to see any of the quick dial settings... then what's the point, right?

Well, if you shoot RAW only, but use the quick dial setting to select Bold Monochrome, you'll see the B&W view while composing your image, and the B&W image will be saved as a thumbnail preview embedded into the RAW file... so in playback on the camera, you'll see it in B&W, but when you import the RAW into Lightroom you'll need to apply the settings we discussed to get a similar look. Does that make sense?

[wolfiegirl]

Well, if you shoot RAW only, but use the quick dial setting to select Bold Monochrome, you'll see the B&W view while composing your image, and the B&W image will be saved as a thumbnail preview embedded into the RAW file... so in playback on the camera, you'll see it in B&W, but when you import the RAW into Lightroom you'll need to apply the settings we discussed to get a similar look. Does that make sense?

yes, that's how i got the results i did this afternoon, as even with raw+ i never saw the jpg versions in LR.

just wish i didn't have to go that extra step to get the monochrome. i could just as easily shoot with my other cameras and just apply the same settings... so not much point having a quick dial if it's not really quick to get there.

ah well. least i got the shot!

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