Originally posted by dms I think the point of the Q (excepting macro w/ K adapter) is size--and on that count the 02 zoom makes it very large.
On the other hand the 01/03/04 are all similarly small. The 01 and 03 are excellent.
And I may be odd man out but I really like the 04 (toy wide 35mm equivalent). Actually most of my usage is w/ 03 and 04 (on a Q) as the 01 is a bit too narrow FL for me, and I prefer to have fixed focus--but 01 is a great lens--and in low light it is the obvious choice.
Yea the 04 doesn't seem half bad for something like easy video usage with a very simplified focusing.
But I feel like I would get at least the 03 before I grab the 04, simply because I already got the 07 on the way, visually speaking (just a might tighter focal length). But the 04 is under $100 easily, just wish it could take filters, but least there's always the internal ND if I need to slow it down some. Speaking of which how many stop reduction is the built in ND anyways?
---------- Post added 03-13-2017 at 02:10 AM ----------
Originally posted by kwb kb244 and barondla, thanks, how come that I didn't know about this until now?
It would be nice if the camera does it in RAW, and it would be great if I can choose between multiple methods like integral (what the camera does now), average (exposures are averaged so the result doesn't get brighter than the individual exposures, just lower noise, this is what I sometimes do on PC) or maybe picking the brightest of N exposers pixel-by-pixel (should be good for star-trail type photo).
My Olympus E-M5 does multiple exposures in raw mode, but I never had to use it since I'll usually either 1) set up to 60 seconds, or use LiveBulb mode on a corded shutter release to set it for however long I need it. or 2) hook up an intervalometer and take an interval of shots, either to be stacked later or turned into a timelapse like with the blue bridge video on page 1.
Stacking though is kind of an approach many people who do star trails will do, since you can set up an intervalometer, take several exposures, followed by several with the lens cap on (capturing your 4 or 5 "dark frames", hence can just turn off noise reduction speeding up each capture), then load them into free software like StarStax where all the frames are stacked upon each other, gaps filled in, and using the dark frame to remove the noise patterns generated by the exact same exposure conditions.
One of my early attempts at that with the moon behind me.
Something I would probably try with the Q, except I'm not seeing any kind of wired shutter release options.
edit :
Just read the manual, the ND filter is only usable with lens that have built in shutters. Hrm, but at least electronic shutter is available up to 1/8000 in just about every mode.