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03-11-2017, 01:30 AM   #1
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Got some advice for my inbound Q10?

I have a Q10 + 02 standard zoom coming monday, and I already ordered from Amazon a 07 shield lens and Leica thread mount adapter (Fotodiox L39/M39) since it was just 38$ and $2 for the two off amazon (new lens, used adapter).

I'm really on the fence about going ahead and getting the 01 Prime since on my Olympus E-M5 and Panasonic GH1 I only shoot primes (Olympus 9mm f/8, Olympus 12mm f/2.0, Panasonic 20mm f/1.7, Olympus 45mm f/1.8, being the native, and Pentax-M 28/3.5, Pentax-M 50/1.4, Rokinon 85/1.4 (PK), Tamron SP 90/2.8 1:1 Macro, Canon Serenar 35/2.8 LTM, Canon 50/1.8 LTM, Jupiter-11 135/4 being the adapted lens I use, I'll probably only use the smaller Leica thread mount lens adapted on the Q).

My E-M5 (Mk1) is my primary workhorse camera for photos, and my GH1 primarily for videos (hacked to have 100mbit video rate, along with hooking into my Tascam DR60Mk II and Rode StereoVideoMic). I'm getting the Q10 primarily for casual moments where I don't want to haul my camera, but I don't want to feel naked without a full manual camera on hand (or situations where larger setup might keep you out of an area).

With my E-M5 I'm almost always going out at night with a heavy Manfrotto 3032 tripod and getting shots like :





Or videos/timelapse like so :



On either camera I shoot full manual 99% of the time, and I'm usually manually focusing or using a single point AF to only focus on a preselected spot. I'm curious if there are any quirks or "gotchas" I should know ahead of time, outside of the crop factor (looking forward to trying that with my 135/4... can you say mini-spotting scope?). I'm probably going to be doing a mix of daytime street shooting, or low light snaps at night, probably either mounted on a heavy little tabletop tripod or rested on a surface, I'm also interested in learning more about the timelapse feature.

So I'm curious primarily in (nutshell) :
- Would it be worth it to grab the 01 Standard Prime?
- What must-have accessories are there if anything?
- Tips/tricks to the Q10
- Things to avoid doing with the Q10

03-11-2017, 01:54 AM   #2
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I lke using a thumb grip. Keeps my finger away from the buttons on the back and offers a slightly better grip on the camera. From $1 at ebay.
03-11-2017, 02:18 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by CarlG Quote
I lke using a thumb grip. Keeps my finger away from the buttons on the back and offers a slightly better grip on the camera. From $1 at ebay.
The kind that slips into the hot shoe?

Edit : oooh pretty colors
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281214541804

Last edited by kb244; 03-11-2017 at 02:27 AM.
03-11-2017, 02:28 AM   #4
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It's worth having the 01 Standard Prime. Many people rave about it, though honestly, it's not my favourite lens. However, it's very compact and - most importantly - quite fast at f/1.9, so it's great for low-light shooting. For very close range subjects, it also gives you a little more depth-of-field control (although shallow depth-of-field is not a strong point of the Q cameras when used with native lenses).

Depending on the focal lengths you're interested in, I would highly recommend the 06 Telephoto Zoom - a fine lens optically, quite fast, and with a constant aperture.

Buy yourself one or two spare batteries. Once you get started shooting with the Q10, you'll realise that it's quite an addictive little camera with so-so battery life; you'll want one or two spares charged and ready to go.

If you're going to do a lot of table-top tripod or rested shooting, consider an IR remote. I use the O-RC1 with my Q and Q7 frequently. For rested shooting with a bean-bag or other support, it allows you to get the camera placed just how you want it, then trigger the shot without affecting the framing.

Quirks and gotchas... the only thing that comes immediately to mind is that the relatively low-resolution screen isn't ideal for manual focusing. It's not terrible, but not great either. You'll get used to it, but it's not as precise as, say, live view on a K-3. That said, I've had good results with all manner of adapted manual-focus lenses on my Q7.

03-11-2017, 02:42 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
It's worth having the 01 Standard Prime. Many people rave about it, though honestly, it's not my favourite lens. However, it's very compact and - most importantly - quite fast at f/1.9, so it's great for low-light shooting. For very close range subjects, it also gives you a little more depth-of-field control (although shallow depth-of-field is not a strong point of the Q cameras when used with native lenses).
Chances are I might want to get it anyways (if I sold one of my two lens currently for sale I'd grab it right away), since I like anything f/2.0 or faster even if I don't always use it that fast, it's just nice to have.

QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
Depending on the focal lengths you're interested in, I would highly recommend the 06 Telephoto Zoom - a fine lens optically, quite fast, and with a constant aperture.
I tend to be wide-to-normal, usually around 24mm equiv , to not much more than 80~90mm equiv in regular day to day shooting. When I need reach on my Olympus I usually pull up the J-11 135/4 (270mm equiv, and quite sharp wide open). The 06 was of interest, especially since it was not a variable aperture lens for 15-45, but kept thinking I could probably suffice all the same with my 1951 Canon Serenar 35/2.8 in a smaller package that I know is extremely sharp in the center of the frame (course I won't have the zoom range... or the lighter weight).

QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
Buy yourself one or two spare batteries. Once you get started shooting with the Q10, you'll realise that it's quite an addictive little camera with so-so battery life; you'll want one or two spares charged and ready to go.
That's the goal with every camera I have, I usually try to have least 3 batteries on hand. With my E-M5 I might go thru 2 batteries by the end of a 10 hour day walking around shooting. Are generics like the Wasabi brand good on the Pentax side?

QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
If you're going to do a lot of table-top tripod or rested shooting, consider an IR remote. I use the O-RC1 with my Q and Q7 frequently. For rested shooting with a bean-bag or other support, it allows you to get the camera placed just how you want it, then trigger the shot without affecting the framing.
I might not do that much table top stuff on the go, if I'm doing table top at home or in the studio, I'll most likely be using my E-M5 for it with a shutter release. But I usually keep in my bag an Oben TT-100 mini tripod, which I removed the ball head and replaced it with a Manfrotto 496RC2 (from my carbon fiber monopod, so sometimes the head goes back and forth), so it's a very stable heavy duty table top tripod now.


The little tripod with that specific head is strong enough to hold ~10lb or so, but small enough that I could just pack it in a shoulder bag without a problem.

pic is more or less proof of concept, I wouldn't actually rig up all that on the little table top tripod out in the field.



QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
Quirks and gotchas... the only thing that comes immediately to mind is that the relatively low-resolution screen isn't ideal for manual focusing. It's not terrible, but not great either. You'll get used to it, but it's not as precise as, say, live view on a K-3. That said, I've had good results with all manner of adapted manual-focus lenses on my Q7.
Yea I've read about that but at the same time given the crop factor that seems to enlarge the relative depth of field too, probably making it a little easier. My GH1's screen isn't that hot compared to my E-M5, but I can at least hit the left d-pad button hit Ok and zoom into a selection to focus. Much like how on my E-M5 I can just touch the screen where I want to focus and hit my custom magnify button and focus at 5x/7x/10x/14. I read somewhere the Q10 had focus peeking, despite it's white color not being very practical.

But that is course one of the other leanings towards getting the 01, for the autofocus, and having a fast prime closer to the 'normal' perspective I'm used to.
03-11-2017, 03:32 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by kb244 Quote
When I need reach on my Olympus I usually pull up the J-11 135/4 (270mm equiv, and quite sharp wide open). The 06 was of interest, especially since it was not a variable aperture lens for 15-45, but kept thinking I could probably suffice all the same with my 1951 Canon Serenar 35/2.8 in a smaller package that I know is extremely sharp in the center of the frame (course I won't have the zoom range... or the lighter weight)
The Jupiter-11 is a great little lens (I have two 11A's and one earlier M39 11 ). You're right, it works well even wide-open.

The thing with the 06 is that it's small in diameter and very light-weight, with fast, accurate AF; as such, it's a very easy lens to use "on the fly" and offers a very different shooting experience to a bigger, heavier manual lens - which may or may not be a benefit (it's very subjective). If your shooting will be more relaxed or "considered", your 35/2.8 will do the job just fine. But the 06 is an addictive little lens. Even if you don't get one in the short term, consider picking up a used one if the price is right

QuoteOriginally posted by kb244 Quote
I usually try to have least 3 batteries on hand. With my E-M5 I might go thru 2 batteries by the end of a 10 hour day walking around shooting. Are generics like the Wasabi brand good on the Pentax side?
I've never tried Wasabi - I don't think they're available here in the UK, but I've heard good things about them. I think I have seven or eight batteries for the Q / Q7, as it's the same type used in my little FujiFilm XF-1 compact (a happy coincidence ). Obviously the Pentax and FujiFilm OEM batteries are excellent. The rest of mine are a mix of Ex-Pro (a fairly high quality 3rd party brand here - probably similar to Wasabi) and some inexpensive no-brand batteries that seem to work almost as well, with a bit less capacity than the OEM models.

QuoteOriginally posted by kb244 Quote
pic is more or less proof of concept, I wouldn't actually rig up all that on the little table top tripod out in the field.
That's an impressive setup! I'm particularly impressed that the little Manfrotto tripod holds all of that with any stability... Must be a very-well-made unit!

QuoteOriginally posted by kb244 Quote
given the crop factor that seems to enlarge the relative depth of field too, probably making it a little easier
Yes, that's true... But, for example, an adapted 135mm f/2.8 shot wide open at close distance will still be a challenge to focus accurately with the Q's screen. It can be done, though.

QuoteOriginally posted by kb244 Quote
I read somewhere the Q10 had focus peeking, despite it's white color not being very practical.
The focus peaking is OK - I quite like it, but it's of limited use unless you're shooting at fairly close range with faster apertures and/or longer lenses. It also causes a "snow" effect when you magnify the image on screen, so it's better to use one feature or the other rather than both combined. Furthermore, focusing with magnification isn't helped by the lower-resolution screen. But these are just quirks - you'll get used to them and find a way that works for you. It is, after all, a very compact camera with a small (but high quality) sensor. Considering that, its strengths far outweigh any weaknesses (well, for me they do). It's rare that I go anywhere without my Q7... in fact, as I sit typing at my laptop in the kitchen, the Q7 + 02 zoom is right here next to me
03-11-2017, 03:44 AM   #7
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A $4 eBay loupe, v3 for Canon is the best accessory for Q series!
03-11-2017, 03:55 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
The Jupiter-11 is a great little lens (I have two 11A's and one earlier M39 11 ). You're right, it works well even wide-open.

The thing with the 06 is that it's small in diameter and very light-weight, with fast, accurate AF; as such, it's a very easy lens to use "on the fly" and offers a very different shooting experience to a bigger, heavier manual lens - which may or may not be a benefit (it's very subjective). If your shooting will be more relaxed or "considered", your 35/2.8 will do the job just fine. But the 06 is an addictive little lens. Even if you don't get one in the short term, consider picking up a used one if the price is right
Yea, I plan to get it down the road, not in the short run, but once I get a feel for the camera and grow to love it. I'm not usually a fan of zooms, haven't been in a long while, so the 02 might warm me back up to it once I get more into the workflow of using it as a snapshooter. If the AF is snappy that would be worth it alone.


QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
I've never tried Wasabi - I don't think they're available here in the UK, but I've heard good things about them. I think I have seven or eight batteries for the Q / Q7, as it's the same type used in my little FujiFilm XF-1 compact (a happy coincidence ). Obviously the Pentax and FujiFilm OEM batteries are excellent. The rest of mine are a mix of Ex-Pro (a fairly high quality 3rd party brand here - probably similar to Wasabi) and some inexpensive no-brand batteries that seem to work almost as well, with a bit less capacity than the OEM models.
Wasabi is a brand I got with my second used E-M5 Olympus (the first one which I got used, and sent off for repair, finally bit the bucket with the shutter locking up over the sensor, I could if desired send it out to Oly again for a flat rate of $160 to have it refurbished, but didn't feel like waiting so bought a second one new with more accessories for about 320 and less than 2,000 shutter actuations). They work very well, and hold quite a bit of charge compared to the original model of battery. What makes them different from most of the other OEMs is that the battery cells are manufactured in Japan and are rated at the same voltage as the original Olympus battery ensuring that they charge fully and correctly in an original Olympus charger. The other OEM batteries are a lower voltage (like 7.2 vs 7.4) and would only charge fully in an matching lower voltage charge, as such said charger wouldn't correctly measure an original battery, vice versa. etc.

QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
That's an impressive setup! I'm particularly impressed that the little Manfrotto tripod holds all of that with any stability... Must be a very-well-made unit!
The 496RC2 is rated to hold 13.23Lb (6kg), uses the smaller square RC2 plates, the larger 488RC0 I use on my tripod is rated to hold 17.6Lb (7.9kg) and uses the traditional hexagonal plates. I mainly like using the 488 on my tripod because the panning control is separate from the ball lock, where as on the 496 the paning and ball lock is tied to the same gear. My 128LP fluid drag video head doesn't have a quick release, but has a larger base, but it's only rated to handle 9lb (4kg).

Course thing to keep in mind is, the weight of the head and it's capacity has to be factored into what the legs/monopod can handle, for example my aluminum Bogen 3032 tripod is rated to handle 25lb (11kg), so I would have to factor not only the gear, but also the 1 or 2lb (0.4~0.9kg) the head adds.

The tiny little ballhead the Oben TT-100 comes with is rated for 6lb (2.7kg), but can be unscrewed and accepts any 1-1/4-20 tripod head (can easily adapt the 3/8" heads with a bushing adapter), the legs on it can hold quite a bit, just not the little ball head it comes with. Course the TT-100 is about $20 USD on student discount, the 496RC2 Manfrotto head by itself is about $74 USD (was around $110 USD back when I got it many years ago), so the table top tripod is a bit more expensive when you consider my head swap.


QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
Yes, that's true... But, for example, an adapted 135mm f/2.8 shot wide open at close distance will still be a challenge to focus accurately with the Q's screen. It can be done, though.
Looking forward to the challenge. The difficulties may factor in my decision to go with a 01 and 06.


QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
The focus peaking is OK - I quite like it, but it's of limited use unless you're shooting at fairly close range with faster apertures and/or longer lenses. It also causes a "snow" effect when you magnify the image on screen, so it's better to use one feature or the other rather than both combined. Furthermore, focusing with magnification isn't helped by the lower-resolution screen. But these are just quirks - you'll get used to them and find a way that works for you. It is, after all, a very compact camera with a small (but high quality) sensor. Considering that, its strengths far outweigh any weaknesses (well, for me they do). It's rare that I go anywhere without my Q7... in fact, as I sit typing at my laptop in the kitchen, the Q7 + 02 zoom is right here next to me
I'm curious to see it because I never owned a camera with focus peeking on it. My E-M5 (Mk1) nor my Panasonic GH1 have focus peeking.

A little off topic, the reason I got the Panasonic GH1 earlier this year, despite its age is because for $100 USD or less, you can hack the firmware and bump it's sad 17Mbps video data rate up to 100Mbps for 1080p along with getting native 24p/25p, as well as the option to have YUV 4:2:2 color encoding in the 720p mode. I wanted a video-specific camera to use since my E-M5 only does about 20mbit and it's a bit aggressive on the compression algorithm, has no direct microphone input, and no way to monitor the audio (though the GH1 suffers from the lack of monitoring, and it's strictly Auto gain, but that's why I have the Tascam DR-60Mk II, but least with the GH1 I can mount my SVM directly to the hot shoe and plug it in direct if I wish to do so, something I can't do with the E-M5).

From what I read the Q10 sucks down battery like a [explicit analogy] when shooting video. But I'm curious if it'll fare better than at least my E-M5's video capability.

---------- Post added 03-11-2017 at 06:08 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by surfar Quote
A $4 eBay loupe, v3 for Canon is the best accessory for Q series!
Hey there's an idea, I wonder if I can just use the 20X loupe from the 4x5 view camera I use.

I also have a 30x pocket loupe that I use for adjusting the vintage fountain pens that I restore.

... which makes me think I need to go ahead and get a Pentax K to Q adapter since I have that 90mm f/2.8 1:1 Lifesize macro, since with the table top studio (I use several stone slabs from Lowes/Home depot you can get for like $1 each, plenty large enough at a square foot to put small products on top of, pair of photogenic powerlight 750W strobes with 32" soft boxes), I could get a much smaller macro with a real good working distance allowing me to more easily use some copier paper to place in between the strobes and pens/etc to further diffuse the glare off the surface (some of which is controlled with a circular polarizer).

Like so :







I could probably get right up on the nib point with the Q10 and 90/2.8.

03-11-2017, 04:12 AM   #9
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The 01 standard prime is a nice lens. It suffers from barrel distortion but that is easy to correct - and if you shoot jpegs the camera will do it for you. Otherwise it is fine, compact and sharp. Its main advantage over the kit zoom is that it is considerably brighter at f1.9 but it is also better optically. The kit zoom is not bad though. The brightness of the prime helps in low light, especially as the Q10 is not very good at high iso. The next generation of Q series cameras, Q7 and QS-1, are somewhat better for low light shooting, although certainly not competitive with cameras with larger sensors. They are also considerably faster than the Q10, both at focusing and operations in general. The 06 telezoom is also a good option, surprisingly good for its size, bright and optically excellent.
03-11-2017, 04:22 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by gylfimag Quote
The 01 standard prime is a nice lens. It suffers from barrel distortion but that is easy to correct - and if you shoot jpegs the camera will do it for you. Otherwise it is fine, compact and sharp. Its main advantage over the kit zoom is that it is considerably brighter at f1.9 but it is also better optically. The kit zoom is not bad though. The brightness of the prime helps in low light, especially as the Q10 is not very good at high iso. The next generation of Q series cameras, Q7 and QS-1, are somewhat better for low light shooting, although certainly not competitive with cameras with larger sensors. They are also considerably faster than the Q10, both at focusing and operations in general. The 06 telezoom is also a good option, surprisingly good for its size, bright and optically excellent.
:P f/2.8 is only about 1 (and a little under a third, 1 from 2.8 to f/2, and third from f/2 to f/1.8) of a stop. Though that's at 5mm. The better optically is part of what I was considering, but that 1 stop or so could save me from having to bump my ISO one up, or my shutter one down (I know the marketing material claims shake reduction is effective up to 4 stops, but that doesn't prevent motion blur of the subject moving).

I figured for the price I paid for the Q10 + 02 Lens (140 shipped, about 493 shutter count, 2 batteries, hood, grip, strap, optek case that fits the body/lens exactly, etc) it should be sufficient, at least with most accessories/lens they can be carried over to say the Q-S1 if I like the system quite a bit.
03-11-2017, 04:23 AM   #11
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Check that the firmware is up to date on Q10 and 02 lens.
Thanks
barondla
03-11-2017, 04:24 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by barondla Quote
Check that the firmware is up to date on Q10 and 02 lens.
Thanks
barondla
Yep, I already got the Q10 firmware downloaded in preparation for that since it only has 493 shutter count I doubt he ever updated the firmware.

Didn't know there's a separate firmware for the lens.

Edit : just grabbed the firmware for both 01 (if I get it) and 02.
03-11-2017, 11:53 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by kb244 Quote
So I'm curious primarily in (nutshell) : - Would it be worth it to grab the 01 Standard Prime? - What must-have accessories are there if anything? - Tips/tricks to the Q10 - Things to avoid doing with the Q10
My answers:

01—Yes, I use mine a lot, best choice for available light, street scenes, anything that you don't need macro, wide-angle or telephoto for. It does have severe barrel distortion that must be corrected (either in-camera jpegs or PP raw) to get straight linear lines. I have an OVF but I never use it. There is nothing wrong with the 02. The 06 is very good, but my style of shooting doesn't use it much.

Accessories—a comfortable wrist strap (I made mine from shoelace material), the Q with the 01 is so light it will "disappear" when wearing it all day, yet be ready to use in a second. I've worn two Q-7s at times!

I would be wary of adapting lenses longer than 135mm unless you use a tripod (which kind of defeats the purpose of a Q—it is very hard to hold them steady, even with SR.

The 08 is a fantastic lens, but only if you like to shoot wide. It pretty much replaces the 03 and covers the wide end of the 02.

Adapting lenses, particularly from the Pentax Auto 110 is fun but limited—check out the forum threads on the 110 lenses. The 110 24mm with the original close up lenses is a great macro combination, it is tiny and its field of view less than an inch! The 50mm 110 lens is very good. You can sometimes get a whole 110 system with all of its lenses (except for the worthless zoom) for less than $50.

C mount lenses are fun, but CCTV lenses are usually bad at the edges. Good C mount lenses are very expensive.

D mount lenses can be very sharp in the center but aren't sharp to the edges, but can give a swirly bokeh.

Any lens used on the Q (except the 03 and maybe the 08) should have a shade, as long as you can make it without vignetting. The cheap ones from eBay work fine.

If you shoot jpegs, don't sharpen them in camera (custom image menu on info button- Sharpness and Fine Sharpness should both be at lowest settings), PS and/or LR have better sharpening algorithms.

Shadow and Highlight Corrections (on info button) works well if you have contrasty scenes. Leave off for rainy days or other low-contrast scenes.

Extra batteries, of course.

Good luck, as always YMMV!

Last edited by Cipher; 03-11-2017 at 11:56 AM. Reason: typos
03-11-2017, 01:32 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Cipher Quote
Shadow and Highlight Corrections (on info button) works well if you have contrasty scenes. Leave off for rainy days or other low-contrast scenes.
I'd also clarify that these work in different ways. I believe shadow Correction is a jpeg processing function that has no effect on your raw files. Because I habitually shoot raw, I never use it. Highlight Correction, on the other hand, actually reduces the exposure and then gains up the image to compensate, so it does work when shooting raw -- and is highly useful on sunny days. (Or you can just leave it on AUTO, which doesn't seem to cause any problems that I've noticed.)
03-11-2017, 01:56 PM   #15
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When it comes to choosing a strap, have a look at gordy's camera straps
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