[2old4toys]

Want to use threaded filters with the Pentax 07 Shield Mount lens? Simple hack. Just push on a 43mm -> 46mm step-up ring. It will fit snugly over the outside edges of the lens. Seats perfectly at the half way seam where the 2 halves of the lens housing joins.

I have a 46mm CPL that I wanted to make use of, but you can step up to whatever size that meets your own personal needs.

Very neat looking, no glue and easily removable. Though leaving the step-up ring in place allows an added benefit to use a pinch lens cap with the 07.

Attached Images

 

[barondla]

Good to know 2old4toys. You are really getting into hacking Q stuff. Keep it up.
Thanks for sharing,
barondla

[2old4toys]

Recommend blog post for 07 owners!
Holga close up filter with your 07 and Q

Lo-Fi In Your Eye – Up Close With The Pentax Q 07 Lens – 35hunter

[barondla]

Finally got time to modify the 07 Shield Mount lens for infinity focus using 2old4toys method. Took a little doing to get the glass element to move. It does focus to infinity now. Also added the 2nd hole to the lens mount for closer focusing.

By the time I finished up, it was too dark to get any photos. Looking forward to using this set up later.

Thanks again 2old4toys,
barondla

[jns]

More snapshots from this nice sunny morning taken with my hacked for far focussing 07 shield lens on an original Q body.

wonderful photos, can’t wait to try this myself!

[keelan]

Would any of you brave souls that have opened up your 07 lenses be willing to extract the circuit board (assuming that can be done reversibly) and take some macro photos of both sides?

[2old4toys]

Would any of you brave souls that have opened up your 07 lenses be willing to extract the circuit board (assuming that can be done reversibly) and take some macro photos of both sides?

Interested to know why you ask this. I do find the Q camera body adds some colour changes to the final image knowing it’s mounted with an 07, vs no lens at all. So the PCB does do something.

[keelan]

Interested to know why you ask this. I do find the Q camera body adds some colour changes to the final image knowing it’s mounted with an 07, vs no lens at all. So the PCB does do something.

The Q can only do 2 second exposures with adapted lenses, but 16 second exposures with stock lenses. Elsewhere on this forum it’s argued that it’s because the stock lenses have a shutter, which doesn’t make any sense because the electronic shutter has to act in conjunction with the mechanical shutter anyway. If the mechanical shutter is held open for 16 seconds, the electronic shutter needs to be “held open” for 16 seconds too.

(Hmm… The 07 lens doesn’t have a shutter, what’s the maximum exposure time with it?)

So then I got to wondering, how hard would it be to make an adapter with a little board that spoofs the lens type?

Seeing the PCBs out of multiple lenses will give me an idea of what the pins might do, and what kind of electronics are attached to the pins. The body cap lens would be a great specimen because it’s so simple. Looking at photos of the rear of the stock lenses, I can see that 3 or 4 of the pins are probably used as part of some simple “short the pins together” coding system, but the rest are a mystery.

I’ve ordered a cheap extension tube that I will be able to modify to intercept the electrical signals between the camera and a lens and then feed them to an oscilloscope or logic analyzer.

I also found a broken 06 lens that can’t focus, which seems to be a common mode of failure for that lens. I’ll try to fix it, but my primary goal is to have a lens a I can fearlessly dissect.

[barondla]

The Q can only do 2 second exposures with adapted lenses, but 16 second exposures with stock lenses. Elsewhere on this forum it’s argued that it’s because the stock lenses have a shutter, which doesn’t make any sense because the electronic shutter has to act in conjunction with the mechanical shutter anyway. If the mechanical shutter is held open for 16 seconds, the electronic shutter needs to be “held open” for 16 seconds too.

(Hmm… The 07 lens doesn’t have a shutter, what’s the maximum exposure time with it?)

So then I got to wondering, how hard would it be to make an adapter with a little board that spoofs the lens type?

Seeing the PCBs out of multiple lenses will give me an idea of what the pins might do, and what kind of electronics are attached to the pins. The body cap lens would be a great specimen because it’s so simple. Looking at photos of the rear of the stock lenses, I can see that 3 or 4 of the pins are probably used as part of some simple “short the pins together” coding system, but the rest are a mystery.

I’ve ordered a cheap extension tube that I will be able to modify to intercept the electrical signals between the camera and a lens and then feed them to an oscilloscope or logic analyzer.

I also found a broken 06 lens that can’t focus, which seems to be a common mode of failure for that lens. I’ll try to fix it, but my primary goal is to have a lens a I can fearlessly dissect.

Fascinating idea. Wish you luck. I'd love to have a way of tricking longer exposures from shutterless lenses on the Q.
Thanks,
barondla

[2old4toys]

Would any of you brave souls that have opened up your 07 lenses be willing to extract the circuit board (assuming that can be done reversibly) and take some macro photos of both sides?

Hi, will this do for you.
Tell us how you get on!

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-N1cKhVulIDWPQn8.../IMG_2191.jpeg

[keelan]

Hi, will this do for you.
Tell us how you get on!

Fantastic! They used an off-the-shelf microcontroller so I should be able to glean a few more clues from the pin out of the IC! Thank you for taking the time to do this for me.

[kwb]

Hi, will this do for you.
Tell us how you get on!

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-N1cKhVulIDWPQn8.../IMG_2191.jpeg

Cool picture. Now we know that they use 32-pin version of RL78/G13 microcontroller from Renesas (RSF101BCA).

I scribbled on the picture to help my eyes see which pad goes to where, see the 1st and the 2nd attached. (3rd one is the same as the first two, but one of the pictures is mirrored and rotated so it's easier to see the front-to-back connection.)

Red pad (I assigned number 8 to that) should be camera's positive supply that goes to what seems like a voltage regulator that feeds the microcontroller's positive supply (VDD, pink). Gray (number 6-7) is the common ground. Orange (number 0) goes to the interrupt pin.

Yellow pads (number 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5) are either used for serial communication or timer input/output or something. Either (3,5) pair is used for I2C, (3,4) is used for UART, or (3,4,5) is used for simplified SPI protocol according to Renesas' spec sheet. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 can be used for timer too.

keelan, I cannot help but I'll be extremely curious to know what you will find out. Good luck!

[keelan]

I came here to post my results of doing the exact same thing yesterday! We came to the same conclusion, but I numbered my pins backwards. I've never looked at camera mount electronics before, but things like putting the +V supply on the last pin to connect makes a lot of sense.

Some things to add to your excellent work:

1. The three ground pins have a different configuration on AF vs. MF lenses,; maybe they're being used as sense pins? Or maybe a separate motor ground?

2. Pin 2 on your breakdown is the only pin with a pull-down resistor populated. Maybe this is this the only input?

I'll switch my diagram to your numbering, it makes more sense to start at one on the left of the camera body.

[keelan]

Here's where I'm going with this... I'm thinking I could quite easily modify a common 2 piece C to PQ adapter to include a small circuit board. The electronics would be consist of a 64 mil PCB stacked on top of a 32 mil PCB. the 64 mil PCB would provide the reach to meet the contacts, the 32 mil PCB would be where the electronics would live; probably something like a PIC12F1840, because it's 2 mm square, and I'm familiar with the PIC family. A small relief would need to be machined into the bottom of the C-PQ adapter, but there's enough room that it would all go together without interfering with the C mount; at least not mechanically. The PCB would need to be glued or epoxied into the bottom of the relief.

[kwb]

1. The three ground pins have a different configuration on AF vs. MF lenses,; maybe they're being used as sense pins? Or maybe a separate motor ground?

2. Pin 2 on your breakdown is the only pin with a pull-down resistor populated. Maybe this is this the only input?

I'll switch my diagram to your numbering, it makes more sense to start at one on the left of the camera body.

Oh, I totally missed that Q has 10 pins on the body, and I got my pin 1 and 2 backwards while your pins 8 and 9 are right!
Embedding a small PCB in a Q-C adapter sounds like a great idea. Good luck!