[Mallee Boy]

If you are going to expand beyond the single moto x park and shoot at multiple sites, then it would behoove you to research what tools the shooters who inspire you use. It seems like the few good ones I've spent a few minutes checking out (moto x is something I am not very familiar with, however I got my motorcycle license yesterday so now my interest is stronger) write about what they use. I would email or call them and ask for advice.

I would not lock myself into the tiny mental jailhouse of single brand devotion. All brands have strengths and weaknesses. Go with whatever tools work best for the job. The shot is what matters.

It seems like two popular zoom ranges would meet most of one's moto x shooting requirements: a 24-70mm f2.8 and a 70-200mm f2.8. If you need to better fill the frame (and that is the preferred approach) then an f4 300mm may suffice. A monopod or tripod is only useful for action shots if you are aiming at a predictable spot for a period of time, such as a bend in a track, or starting line. Anything with high variability like the mid-air shots you have shown above requires more physical freedom.

You simply need an AF system that can better track moving objects. It should not be all that hard for a performance-oriented Nikon or Canon if you can have the frame at least 30% filled with the bike and rider. Considering I tend to follow semi-random soccer balls in flight, a bike and rider coming off a ramp seems like a helluva lot easier to me.

Hope this helps.

M

Thanks Miguel,
I have come across this test which is very interesting.

You Tube

You Tube

The K5ii comes out marginally ahead of the D7100 and (well) behind the 1DX, D4 & 7D.

[Miguel]

The K5ii comes out marginally ahead of the D7100 and (well) behind the 1DX, D4 & 7D

No surprises there at all. The Canon and Nikon models are specifically high performance cameras; the others simply are not, but they possess other attributes that are in some ways superior to faster bodies. The key is matching your requirements to the best solution.

M

[Take-5-JB]

Mallee Boy,

I agree with Tako Kichi about TAV. Set the Shutter speed between 500-800, use F5.6-11(16) based on sunlight, and you can let the sensor set your ISO. Keeps you in a decent DoF so the autofocus won't have to be as precise as if you are F2.8-4. If you frame your shot with your zoom, you can adjust the shutter or f-stop up or down a little with the adjustor wheels after a few quick site shot simulations before the racing heat starts.

Are you shooting continuous autofocus and exposure? Is your autofocus on your shutter button or th AF button on the back?

I don't shoot sports, so I am just slinging out a couple things. But you have several good suggestions from the experienced folks. Good luck getting to where you have a higher success ratio.

JB