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03-14-2013, 03:17 PM   #16
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stop-down metering sometimes can present some problem for focusing with smaller aperture as the screen can be quite dim, so I usually focus first with lens wide-open and then count the number of clicks to stop down before tripping the shutter.

03-14-2013, 03:37 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by aleonx3 Quote
It is stopped down when I turn the aperture ring and the picture is properly exposed - behaves exactly like a m42 lens and no modification required on the lens...
It is not supposed to do that, nor could a bit of foil make it do that, electrically anyway (since it is a mechanical difference). Possibly the foil is just preventing the lenses from mounting properly because an unmounted M-style lens will stop down -- the K-01 is supposed to hold it open when turned on. (The K-5 and others with OVFs will hold it open all the time, but the K-01 waits until the camera is turned on.) So if the lens isn't clicking in all the way with foil covering the lens release mechanism, it might behave that way. But it is nothing do with with shorting contacts -- you are just interfering with the mechanism...
03-14-2013, 04:01 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by vonBaloney Quote
It is not supposed to do that, nor could a bit of foil make it do that, electrically anyway (since it is a mechanical difference). Possibly the foil is just preventing the lenses from mounting properly because an unmounted M-style lens will stop down -- the K-01 is supposed to hold it open when turned on. (The K-5 and others with OVFs will hold it open all the time, but the K-01 waits until the camera is turned on.) So if the lens isn't clicking in all the way with foil covering the lens release mechanism, it might behave that way. But it is nothing do with with shorting contacts -- you are just interfering with the mechanism...
I played a bit more with both K-01 and K-5, I think you are right.. on the K-01 though, it is all the way with a click (perhaps, even then it is not enough to keep it open all the way); the aperture open-and-close from f16 to f1.7 properly. On the K-5, if I mount the M-style lens close to click but not quite, it will stop down, but not properly all the way. I think it is the aperture level mechanism... oh, well, happy that my k-01 behaves this way so I can use all my M/K style lens using Av mode.
03-14-2013, 04:10 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by aleonx3 Quote
I played a bit more with both K-01 and K-5, I think you are right.. on the K-01 though, it is all the way with a click (perhaps, even then it is not enough to keep it open all the way); the aperture open-and-close from f16 to f1.7 properly. On the K-5, if I mount the M-style lens close to click but not quite, it will stop down, but not properly all the way. I think it is the aperture level mechanism... oh, well, happy that my k-01 behaves this way so I can use all my M/K style lens using Av mode.
If you just the block the lens release pin, it may work. I'll have to test that...

03-15-2013, 10:04 AM   #20
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I recently got a K01 to add to my Q and Spotmatic. I intend mostly to use m42 lenses with the K01. I've been able to set things up so that in manual mode the green button sets the shuitter, and everything is OK -- however, I find the experience using manual lenses on the K01 to be a bit more troublesome than with the Q. With the Q in manual mode, there is always a meter showing, and it's simple to under expose a shot if I like (I do a lot of night photography, and don't want the results to be artificially bright), however with the K01, the meter is not shown, so instead I press the green button and reduce the shutter speed blindly.

What get's me, and it's probably lack of familiarity with the K01, is that it seems like sometimes I do get a meter, but other times not. Does this make sense? It could be that am in a different mode, but it's all kinda confusing. I wish the K01 would show the light meter at all times in manual mode like the Q. Is this possible?
03-15-2013, 04:35 PM   #21
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I see a lot of misunderstanding here.

You don't need foil because the steel mount is already conductive. What you should be doing is making the contacts non-conductive. That is how the Pentax lenses work. Look closely at an A prime lens (zoom lenses very different); what appear to be contacts are actually non-contacts comprising of holes filled with non-conductive resin, plus one raised ball-bearing that tells the camera it's an A lens.

DO NOT use foil or anything conductive. Using foil does nothing more than possibly jam the mount and prevent proper mounting.

Use non-conductive tape; Scotch Magic Tape is best because it is very thin and low friction. Make sure all contacts are covered. For God's sake don't start cutting off aperture pins!

The result is exactly the same as a screw mount. The lens stops down to wherever it is set and exposes perfectly. There's no optical viewfinder, so you don't need the aperture to ever be stopped open; the screen will adjust (almost) instantly to whatever aperture setting is used.

The result is WYSIWYG on the screen. Try it. Quick, cheap and won't damage anything.

Do not be tempted to try and turn your M and K lenses into A lenses by selectively covering contacts. All you will achieve is the illusion of success with a lovely readout of apertures and full program compatibility. What you actually get is exposure accuracy for the smallest and largest apertures (because that is what the null contacts tell the camera) and inaccurate exposure for every other aperture. You can search for why, but in a nutshell it's aperture diameter vs aperture area or something like that.

Manual is full manual, including meter readout for under and over exposure, if ISO is set to manual. Every other setting reverts to AV.

Last edited by ChrisJowett; 03-15-2013 at 05:55 PM.
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