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03-14-2013, 07:29 AM   #46
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QuoteOriginally posted by audiobomber Quote
I don't know why your shots were spoiled, but it's highly unlikely it had anything to do with the aperture ring. Which mode were you using? The camera only stops down in M mode. In any mode other than M, the shot would have been taken with the aperture wide open. If you were in M mode, the shot would have been taken at f22, but would have been severely underexposed without a major boost in shutter speed or ISO.
I don't recall as that was a long time ago. I guess its possible that it was in M, and was hitting the button for exposure, and then glancing at the screen and spinning the dial a little to adjust. That sounds like something I would do in that circumstance (bright sky background so planes may be underexposed on auto modes). What happened was the shutter speeds were to slow to stop motion with a jet (not significantly so as it was bright daylight but just enough to make most shots look a little fuzzy from motion blur, nothing was nice and sharp).

03-14-2013, 07:57 AM   #47
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IF I was in your situation, I'd definitely go for a K-01. Unless, you are going to use lenses over 100mm. The IQ is excellent...it gives you the ability to take pro quality images, for a great price.

The weakness of this camera is long lenses with long focusing distances. But even then, as you can see in the following thread, with a bit of effort you can get it done.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/post-your-photos/218340-nature-those-who-...-redpolls.html

IN this thread, I went for a walk with the long lens on my K-5 and the K-01 around my hanging from it's strap from my neck with the 40xs on it. I used the K-5 for macros, I used the K-01 for the landscapes...I have to say, I use it a lot more than I thought I would. In fact I seem to take it with me and leave my old point and shoot home.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/post-your-photos/218233-landscape-spruce-bog-trail-walk.html

Last edited by normhead; 03-14-2013 at 08:04 AM.
03-14-2013, 08:00 AM   #48
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QuoteOriginally posted by audiobomber Quote
The firmware upgrade is definitely worthwhile, but the K-01 is never going to equal PDAF for low light autofocus, not even compared to an older DSLR. Compared to a current DSLR, low light AFwith the K-01 is just plain bad. In good light, CDAF works well, but for long tele an OVF is far superior to an LCD viewfinder. Focus Peaking is a fantastic feature, but with a 200+ mm lens, you'll probably still want to use focus magnification and a tripod.

I like my K-01 a lot for its strengths, but it is not a a DSLR. If you want one for what it does well, you're all set. If you're satisfied with your DSLR, the K-01 can be a great addition. If you're looking to upgrade your DSLR, the K-30 beats an *ist in every imaginable way, and has the same CDAF and focus peaking as the K-01. I'm sure the seller wouldn't mind you requesting an upgrade and honestly, that's what I'd recommend. The K-01 is a super deal, but if it doesn't offer exactly what you want, then it's not such a great deal.

BTW, don't worry about upgrading the firmware. If you return the body, it will be re-sold as open box. The dealer won't care what firmware it has as long as it works and the buyer will benefit from the v1.03 upgrade.
The main problem was not auto focus speed but rather it would fail to auto focus at all. There are two adjoined rooms so I was shooting from maybe 25 feet (it had no problems in the 10ish or less ft range with the same lighting due to af assist I assume). At first I was using lenses at the long end so f5.6 (lenses like a 28-90mm). When I realized it might be the slow lens, I tired my 28-200mm in the middle range so I could get a stop faster, and tried other lenses middle range a stop faster. Even with the kit 40m 2.8 it seemed to struggle a little at that distance and lighting. I also tried a 28-80m thats 3.5-4.7 in the mid range (I think it went to f4) and that didn't help. There are 2 26 watt flouresent bulbs (100 watt equivalent) in that room, and a chandelier with 5 40 watt equivalent bulbs in the room I was shooting from, so it wasn't that dark. I tried with the ist-ds ad same lenses/settings and it struggled a little bit. I have never had significant complaints about the ist-ds's ability af in low light.

The primary reason I wanted a new camera was low light performance as that is my only significant complaint about the ist-ds. From a high iso perspective, the camera achieved that low light performance very well. I guess I need to update the firmware and try more shooting scenarios to see if it will be usable. If it can detect focus when manual focusing in such situations (where I'm controlling it and keeping it right there till I get conformation). I do have faster manual glass if that is what the problems is. As this might serve as a good video camera too, it might still be worth it if it can handle a lot of lower light situations (even if its in manual mode or with manual faster glass). Not dark situations, just normal room lighting. With the ist-ds, low shutter speeds/terrible look of high iso was the problem, not the ability to auto focus. Its worth trying the firmware upgrade but I might have to wait till tonight to try it out (there is a lot of bright sunlight coming through the windows right now).

The AF sped in general seems acceptable. It seemed similar to the ist-ds but opposite kind of. In other words the ist-ds strong points were the k-01 weak points and vica versa. When the lens hunts (as in goes through the whole range looking for focus) the k-01 was slower. When it was just making adjustments the k-01 seemed faster, despite the nature of how it focuses (has to focus past and then back but was very zippy about it). In bright light, even with my f 100-300mm (almost a full rotation of AF throw), it was tolerable on the k-01 though certainly not fast.

I guess its a mute point till I update the firmware and see how it performs.
03-14-2013, 08:08 AM   #49
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QuoteOriginally posted by normhead Quote
IF I was in your situation, I'd definitely go for a K-01. Unless, you are going to use lenses over 100mm. The IQ is excellent...it gives you the ability to take pro quality images, for a great price.

The weakness of this camera is long lenses with long focusing distances. But even then, as you can see in the following thread, with a bit of effort you can get it done.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/post-your-photos/218340-nature-those-who-...-redpolls.html

IN this thread, I went for a walk with the long lens on my K-5 and the K-01 around my hanging from it's strap from my neck with the 40xs on it. I used the K-5 for macros, I used the K-01 for the landscapes...I have to say, I use it a lot more than I thought I would. In fact I seem to take it with me and leave my old point and shoot home.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/post-your-photos/218233-landscape-spruce-bog-trail-walk.html
I already have the k-01 (just bought it and have not had time to try it out much or read through the manual and get settings right). With the very limited use I have done, I have not had any major complaints with long lenses (but haven't tried them out much). I can live with slower auto focus in some instances if it will infact eventually get a focus lock.

03-14-2013, 12:07 PM   #50
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I updated the firmware and it didn't fix it. It does AF at long distances in bright sunlight so its not a distance issue that I can tell. Here is another question. I read in another thread that teh camera would not use an external flashes focus assist, even on a pentax brand flash that the manual says will (a bug I guess). I can not find the setting to turn the cameras af assist light on and off. Also, it seems my external flash doesn't work either unless I have missed a setting. Its a promaster. The pttl light doesn't come on on the flash and the flash barely fires (dark image). The flash works fine on the ist-ds and the pttl light comes on. I can not find any setting concerning external flash at all on the camera.
03-14-2013, 12:16 PM   #51
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By the way, If it is something I have to live with or get another camera, I understand, I am just looking for options. The external flash not working as well as af assist issues (even with pentax flashes according to one thread) is an issue though.
03-14-2013, 12:59 PM   #52
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When I use am SLR, I learned to cradle it in my left hand, hold it against my forehead and stabilize it with my right hand. The three points of contact allows me to hold the camera very steady. This doesn't work well with the K-01. I shorten the neck strap so that It is the right distance to use the camera when I pull against the strap. Now I again have three points to stabilize the camera.
03-14-2013, 03:33 PM   #53
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QuoteOriginally posted by RustyWrangler Quote
When I use am SLR, I learned to cradle it in my left hand, hold it against my forehead and stabilize it with my right hand. The three points of contact allows me to hold the camera very steady. This doesn't work well with the K-01. I shorten the neck strap so that It is the right distance to use the camera when I pull against the strap. Now I again have three points to stabilize the camera.
My main issue with focusing has been my eye site is a little out. Basically if it looks in focus and sharp to me its probably a bit out of focus. I'm guessing this camera has no in focus indicator that beeps/turns the focus point box green or some such thing when it is in focus (using manual lenses), or do I just not have the settings right?

I'm pretty sure I'm going to keep it despite being unhappy with some issues of it. The lens cost $250 (and I do not have any auto focus primes) so basically I'm buying the lens and paying $110 for the camera. An alternative way to look at it would be I'm buying a $600 camera body for $300 and getting a $250 lens for $60 in the deal. The k-30 isn't available as a kit with a prime that I am aware of so getting one for $150 kit price is out with other cameras. Long story short the price justifies keeping it despite issues. The no flash and or external focus assist light is really bothering me though. I'm hopping thats something they fix and perhaps my flash can be made to work. With the ist-ds and the k-01, and a wide range of manual lenses and a limited range of AF lenses (still several but none fast except for the kit), I think I can make it work for most instances.

Does anyone know of any good guides for getting started with this camera?

03-14-2013, 04:51 PM   #54
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..removed. Sorry, I missed the 'using manual lenses'.
You're right, there's no beep in manual focus, even when using AF lenses set to Manual focus either, which I admit is odd, the K-7 beeps in manual mode.

Last edited by Steve.Ledger; 03-14-2013 at 04:59 PM.
03-14-2013, 05:14 PM   #55
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I use focus peaking, which does work with my MF primes. I have the beeps turned off, so I didn't realize that they don't work with MF lenses. I don't like machines that make random noises.
03-14-2013, 05:25 PM   #56
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I love my MF lenses on the K-01...and even though my Tamron 70-200 will not AF on it I find myself using MF alot with it on my K-01. Actually, I find myself using the K-01 more and more than my K-5.
03-14-2013, 05:38 PM   #57
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QuoteOriginally posted by sledger Quote
..removed. Sorry, I missed the 'using manual lenses'.
You're right, there's no beep in manual focus, even when using AF lenses set to Manual focus either, which I admit is odd, the K-7 beeps in manual mode.
It is on. To clarify, it doesn't function in manual focus mode. With an auto focus lens, there is the box in the middle. If focus fails, the box turns red. If focus is achieved, it turns green and beeps.

With an auto focus lens, the second you switch to manual focus, the box disappears and the box is gone. The camera does not beep when it is in focus.
03-14-2013, 05:45 PM   #58
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QuoteOriginally posted by RustyWrangler Quote
I use focus peaking, which does work with my MF primes. I have the beeps turned off, so I didn't realize that they don't work with MF lenses. I don't like machines that make random noises.
So far I'm not liking focus peaking but it could be a matter of learning to use it better. With focus peaking, I do not seem to be getting in focus shots (again, just started using it so there just may be a learning curve). My eye site is a little out (2-3 diopter). That means my eye site is just a little out. I can see fine, but with glasses things are a bit sharper. I never even knew my eye site was a bit out till I got the ist-ds and realized my eye site was just at the edge of where the camera viewfinder could adjust to (or just past, I didn't really know).

Do I understand focus peaking right? When it is in the best focus, the edges light up the brightest? Meaning it doesn't really mater if your eye site is on or not, as you are not judging in focus, you are judging brightness? If so perhaps its just a matter of a little practice. It would be nice if they could enable in focus indication in a firmware update. I kind of wonder if they will even work on the firmware (which still must be buggy due to the flash issue), since the camera is discontinued?
03-14-2013, 05:58 PM   #59
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There are a couple of threads on focus peaking, please have a look there. There are even videos on youtube.
Focus peaking is not great for very slow or very wide angle lenses, in my experience. It works like a charm with fast primes, though.
03-14-2013, 06:15 PM   #60
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QuoteOriginally posted by Na Horuk Quote
There are a couple of threads on focus peaking, please have a look there. There are even videos on youtube.
Focus peaking is not great for very slow or very wide angle lenses, in my experience. It works like a charm with fast primes, though.
I don't have a a lot of MF primes. A handfull of 50's, a 28mm or two, a 135mm (maybe working). I do have a few some what fast zooms though. I have a kalimar 35-70mm 2.8 constant (decent enough glass, crappy build), a vivitar 35-80 ish 2.8-? or two (one is the stovepipe), vivitar 70-210m 3.5 constant, vivitar 35-200mm 3-4.5. I could have sworn I had a faster 300mm but all I'm finding is a 100-300mm 5.0 constant.

I have lots of medium to slower ones to.
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