[vonBaloney]

100% sure ... I was constantly looking at the aperture and I even shined a bright LED flash light over the lens. Aperture did NOT changed at any point in time ... however, the camera was compensating on the screen - or at least trying to (seen that in the mirror ).

So yea ... I don't think so ... at least for me didn't do it. And I used the XS lenses.

Could be a firmware thing -- are you using newest? Or a lens thing -- it has always been with manual-focus 'A' lenses that I've noticed it. Mine does it all the time, and many others have reported the same. K-5 does it in LiveView as well I think...

[mrNewt]

Could be a firmware thing -- are you using newest? Or a lens thing -- it has always been with manual-focus 'A' lenses that I've noticed it. Mine does it all the time, and many others have reported the same. K-5 does it in LiveView as well I think...

I have latest version, XS lens, everything fully auto ... I've tested it on the DA 18-55 II with same results. Aperture does not change.
With manual lenses, it does the same noises when is trying to compensate for the different light conditions, but obviously there is no way to step it down anyway ... until you click the shutter.

[mrNewt]

Hummm... what mode were you in ? You are referring to multiple XS Lense(s)... to my knowledge there's only one XS lens, the 40XS.

There is only one XS lens as far as I know ... the XS40mm. I guess I did a type error in there referring to more than one - sorry.

[vonBaloney]

I have latest version, XS lens, everything fully auto ... I've tested it on the DA 18-55 II with same results. Aperture does not change.
With manual lenses, it does the same noises when is trying to compensate for the different light conditions, but obviously there is no way to step it down anyway ... until you click the shutter.

Hmmm...noises are mechanical, it must be doing something. The gain of the LCD going up and down obviously would be silent. The SR makes noise, but that's pretty distinctive. I'll see if I can make a video of it or something...

[Rob22315]

I have latest version, XS lens, everything fully auto ... I've tested it on the DA 18-55 II with same results. Aperture does not change.
With manual lenses, it does the same noises when is trying to compensate for the different light conditions, but obviously there is no way to step it down anyway ... until you click the shutter.

I just did it with my 40XS and the aperture does change. Look at the front of the lens while you point the camera at a light area, then a dark area. The camera closes the aperture when it's pointed at the light area and opens it when the camera is pointed at the dark area. It's easy to see with the 40 because the lens is very thin.

The aperture number shown on the screen doesn't change because it's calculated by the camera. You can't rely on the live-view histogram for over/under exposure because of this.

[Zafar Iqbal]

I never found much use for the focused peak feature and don't see it as anything else than a more or less useless gimmick. It eagerly indicates focus which means it can't be too accurate using longer focals and/or larger apertures.

[bossa]

Yeah, I explained the problem in the rest of the post. The camera stops the lens down and thus the DoF in peaking is bigger than in the photo. Out of fairness I also mentioned lenses which will work poorly with peaking no matter what. As i said, you can try taking photos at even smaller aperture/wider DoF, if the scene allows. Then again, if you know that FP is backfocusing for you, you can try putting it just in front of the subject.

I have found that if I have my GREEN BUTTON set for DOF PREVIEW and I hit that to open the lens to the actual shooting aperture and then focus manually in magnified mode I get the best results for Focus Peaking. But the best results for me is when using AF on the K-01.

I said in another thread that it would be nice of focus peaking allowed:
1. A threshold (sensitivity) setting that could be used to thin the displayed zone as much as possible.
2. Different colours on the display (green for OOF behind the subject, white IF & red for OOF in front of the subject. This would nail the zone every time I feel.

[bossa]

I don't think that is correct. It stops down to the selected aperture when it takes the photo, otherwise it's wide open.

No, that's not the case.. The lens gets closed to protect the sensor and opens up to the shooting aperture when you press the shutter button. I use the GREEN BUTTON set for DOF preview (which opens the lens to the selected apertrure) and then use FP to get focus. But you could manually focus with the lens set to it's widest aperture for focus and then select the shooting aperture afterwards to use the thinnest DOF that you lens can display for focus. The key here is that you need a button to display DOF preview.

I find that I get the best results for MF with the K-01 if I include these processes along with the magnify mode.

[mrNewt]

I just did it with my 40XS and the aperture does change. Look at the front of the lens while you point the camera at a light area, then a dark area. The camera closes the aperture when it's pointed at the light area and opens it when the camera is pointed at the dark area. It's easy to see with the 40 because the lens is very thin.

The aperture number shown on the screen doesn't change because it's calculated by the camera. You can't rely on the live-view histogram for over/under exposure because of this.

Read my previous comments ... I did look at the actual aperture ON the lens ... no change ...

[Sagitta]

I've found focus peaking to be a dream with my K-30, even at longer focal lengths. I'm not sure how it can be 'too wide' - I find myself actually turning bright/dark highlighting on (effectively widening the shimmer) to cheat my way sometimes with it (with highlighting on, the focus 'shimmer' is interpreted as a highlight by the camera and glows yellow) due to it being too hard to make out.

I've used it with my clunky old budget zooms to great effect, so if a costly birding-capable lens is failing with it I'm not sure what to say except something sounds off with either the camera or your technique with using it.

To get an idea, when I picked up my M50 f/1.4, the first thing I did was go around shooting at f/1.4 because thats what I bought the thing *for*.

Focus here was on his left eye, ambient light was 'pretty darn dark apartment'.



Again, very poor light with me deliberately underexposing as well, focus peaking was on the foil.



The abovementioned old clunky zoom - a Sears 70-210mm. Any failings here were with that and not the camera. Focus peaking was on the edge of the light pole (not the birds). I dropped the aperture down to f/8 simply because I was hanging myself out the bedroom window with the camera cocked at a hideous angle as I used the abovementioned 'highlights on' trick in order to try to catch them. This would have been shot at 210mm. Using the OVF would have meant me having to learn how to levitate, which obviously wasn't happening.

[Rob22315]

Read my previous comments ... I did look at the actual aperture ON the lens ... no change ...

YES, THE APERTURE DOES CHANGE, and the change is consistent with the noise the camera makes while it adjusts to changing light conditions.

[JinDesu]

YES, THE APERTURE DOES CHANGE, and the change is consistent with the noise the camera makes while it adjusts to changing light conditions.

To echo some users, I was playing with my new K-01 with my Sigma 50 F1.4 yesterday and I was wondering why it was making odd snapping noises when I tilted it. When looking at it from the front, I noticed that the snapping noises was my Sigma's aperture blades closing whenever I pointed it at the bright window.

[mrNewt]

YES, THE APERTURE DOES CHANGE, and the change is consistent with the noise the camera makes while it adjusts to changing light conditions.

Then I guess I am blind ... what else could I say!?

[Rob22315]

Then I guess I am blind ... what else could I say!?

See the post just above yours and recheck your observations. Your observations don't agree with mine and a couple of others. Try it with the 40mm lens, a bright window, then a dark surface. Watch the aperture blades open/close.

[mrNewt]

See the post just above yours and recheck your observations. Your observations don't agree with mine and a couple of others. Try it with the 40mm lens, a bright window, then a dark surface. Watch the aperture blades open/close.

I won't repeat it again ... you obviously ignore what I am saying ... and unless I am blind, I'm pretty sure of what I am saying. Tried it with 2 lenses already and there is no point to keep on observing and see if magically eventually it will change. It just doesn't for me ...

Could be settings, could be anything ... no idea why. It just stays wide open.

Even with a manual lens on, the screen still adjust for lighting conditions without any troubles - and obviously there is no way for the camera to step down. The conclusion from this ... for my case at least ... is that screen adjusts lightning without the need to step down - guess depends on settings.