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01-07-2014, 06:32 AM   #31
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It was some kind of curiosity that made me buy a used K-01. But after playing with it for a while, I decided to keep it. For me it's fun to use it and the strange brick-a-like look of it is some kind of ... hmmm ... 'individual'. ;-)
And you get very good quality shots from it.

01-07-2014, 08:15 AM   #32
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Steve, it does that to protect the sensor. If it's exposed to too bright a light, it can burn and damage the sensor.

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01-07-2014, 01:16 PM   #33
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Interesting theory, but I don't buy it
01-07-2014, 02:42 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steve.Ledger Quote
Interesting theory, but I don't buy it
The K-01 shutter is open in its resting state to facilitate LiveView. The shutter cycle is:

CLOSE | OPEN-CLOSE | OPEN

When in a resting state the camera does in fact adjust the aperture of a lens as necessary to maintain selected exposure settings.

The K-01 Review on the Forum Home Page describes the shutter cycle under Sensor and Shutter.


Last edited by monochrome; 01-07-2014 at 03:01 PM.
01-07-2014, 02:44 PM   #35
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repair - How to fix an image sensor damaged by long sun exposures? - Photography Stack Exchange

http://c758710.r10.cf2.rackcdn.com/files/support/manual/1330621102_Manual_K-01_EN_official.pdf (page1): Do not aim the camera at the sun or other strong light sources when taking pictures, or leave the camera in direct sunlight with the lens cap off. Doing so may cause the camera to malfunction or may cause a fire.

http://www.css.washington.edu/w/images/7/7e/Canon_Rebel_XTi.pdf (page 91): "Mirror Lockup Shooting Tips - Do not point the camera toward the sun. The sun's heat can scorch and damage the shutter curtains."

I'm guessing I could find warnings and evidence of this all day, if I gave it a bit more google.

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01-07-2014, 03:16 PM   #36
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Yes Charles, of course. But I am not talking about nor mentioned pointing the camera directly at a full burning sun.
I'm simply talking about pointing from a dim area to a brighter one.

@monochrome:
Thanks, I'm aware of this. I'm just saying I wish it were not so because it's damned annoying and noisy.
01-08-2014, 02:17 PM   #37
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I recently purchased a used K-01 for the purpose of converting it to an infrared-only camera. It is currently off being fitted with an IR filter. However, in the few days that I had the camera for normal use, I found it to be remarkably responsive with very precise autofocus. What was difficult for me was focus peaking for manual focus. I simply could not get it to work consistently. Perhaps there are some useful tips on how to use this feature properly.

Rob
01-08-2014, 02:21 PM   #38
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I don't trust Focus Peaking, I too get poorer results. I trust my eye more when using manual focus.

01-08-2014, 04:37 PM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steve.Ledger Quote
@monochrome: Thanks, I'm aware of this. I'm just saying I wish it were not so because it's damned annoying and noisy.
Ayup!
01-08-2014, 10:05 PM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steve.Ledger Quote
I don't trust Focus Peaking, I too get poorer results. I trust my eye more when using manual focus.
Really? I find peaking is very accurate for fast lenses, especially zoomed in. At least, when there is sufficient light. It makes manual focus much faster for me as well.
Either is better than a K-x or K-30 viewfinder, though.

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01-08-2014, 10:59 PM   #41
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About the lens focus tracking -- it makes using a telephoto (like the 55-300mm) on a moving subject almost impossible. Forget bird and airplane photography. But -- with the 35mm f/2.4, I've had no problems at all, and the K-01 is a delight to use (maybe because I just don't bother anymore to shoot birds or airplanes with it!).

As for focus peaking... with the gaffer-taped Hoodman loupe, I just don't need it, you can see everything so clearly.

Also -- a disappointment -- it should have a much faster flash sync speed. It's not a DSLR... why should it be stuck with that horrible DSLR-type sync speed?
01-08-2014, 11:25 PM   #42
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It's a dslm, all it lacks is the mirror. Everything else is mechanically the same. Essentially it's working like a dslr that you switch to live view mode.
01-09-2014, 01:17 AM   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steve.Ledger Quote
I don't trust Focus Peaking, I too get poorer results. I trust my eye more when using manual focus.
I find it works very well in certain situations. Depends a bit on the contrast and fabric of the environment.
In some situations though, I can hardly see the white contours and I trust my eye more as well...

and more and more I combine my eye and the use of the distance scales on my lenses.
01-09-2014, 01:30 AM   #44
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I have focus peaking (highlighting) in blue on my camcorder. Panasonic either have a better implementation or the blue makes the difference.
Either way I can't trust the K-01 (and the Q is no better imho.)
01-09-2014, 08:53 AM   #45
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I've found under certain high-contrst situations focus peaking works just fine. I was initially astonished to watch the "peaked" portion of the stamen of a hibiscus bloom moving in and out while trying to shoot it with a K50/1.4 @ f/1.4. f/8 worked for the entire bloom - all outlined in white against the modestly blurred green leaves background.

OTOH in bright light (f/11 @1/500) focus peaking either isn't there at all or just isn't visible, not that I need it at f/11..

Implementation on Q isn't as useful for me unless zoomed at least 4x.
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