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03-03-2014, 04:41 AM   #31
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I find the K-01 is fine with a low intensity ND filter such as the ND8. If I put on the ND400, it will refuse to focus in many situations. My K-3 is great in that it can AF even if I put on the ND400 in PDAF mode.

03-03-2014, 05:01 AM   #32
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Yes, that's the reason for 'pre-focus'.
(Even your K-3 would not focus through a Lee Big Stopper.)
But this thread isn't about focusing, I've got that covered
03-03-2014, 08:42 AM   #33
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You could also modify the way you work with your ND...

What I usually do when using anything darker than ND16
- Compose
- Green button, get exposure readings
- Screw-in filter, set to minimum (ND2)
- Recompose
- Set filter to desired value (let's say ND400)
- Slow down shutter by 9 stops (or adjust ISO/Aperture whatever floats your boat)
- Shoot
- Enjoy perfectly exposed shot

Using a DSLR using the viewfinder for recomposing or trying to "see" the exposure is utterly useless when using ND16 or more since your can't see much. Using Liveview which is compensated actually makes sense for a final composition check. So from how I use ND filters, your mirrorless is actually a bit better, sure you don't see your screen getting darker as you turn your filter... There is a quick fix for that.... Mark down on the filter itself how many stops you need to compensate. This is what I did. Took a while to measure it but now it's a two seconds process... get proper exposure, turn filter, adjust exposure and shoot. You don't even need a viewfinder/LV at that point.

The downside of cheap circular ND (all circular I think) is that towards the end (ND400 - ND1000) it takes very little rotation to make a whole lot of effect. Just touching it will cost you one stop. This is why most people use standard filters (ND2/ND4/ND8/ND16/ND400) and stack them. Sure, using cheap filters you're stacking crap on top of crap but from experience, it's not much crappier than the circular one which is actually two polarizer stacked against each other.

Last edited by fgaudet; 03-03-2014 at 08:49 AM.
03-03-2014, 09:55 AM   #34
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I think that we have a tendency to forget that the camera LCD isn't meant to evaluate the qualities of the image, as the changing surrounding light conditions (bright vs dark, cold vs warm) will significantly affect what is being seen, and will lead to mis-interpretation and mis-exposure. That is why you should not rely on the image as seen, but rather the histogram to assess the exposure. Hence in that context, it would be an error to attempt to represent the actual image captured on the camera LCD. It is meant to be used to compose your image, just as a viewfinder does.

Using a neutral density filter has the only purpose of controlling the speed of the shutter below what is possible in bright conditions, and not to darken the image, hence it would serve no useful purpose to darken the image on the LCD when using such filters. Beside, as pointed out by others, how is the camera to know the light isn't just getting darker or a filter has been put in front of the camera? It's a natural tendency to want to use the LCD as one would with a computer screen, but there is no way to calibrate and control what is being seen on the LCD to ensure that what you see is what you get.


Last edited by regor; 03-03-2014 at 09:57 AM. Reason: typo
03-03-2014, 01:53 PM   #35
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Would a moderator or admin please close my thread. Thank you :)
03-04-2014, 03:41 PM   #36
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I agree with Steve. Auto adjustment can lead to problems. Anything automated will usually screw up something once in a while. I will give two situations I have encountered.

1. I was amazed with my first mirrorless camera, an Olympus EPL-1. The bright add on EVF was great to focus on overcast days. Even using the the OM 180 f2 was easier with the bright EVF. Manual focusing was a dream with the geese sitting on the ground and dark trees in the background. I thought the DSLR was doomed. Then the flock flew up into the sky, and my EVF went very dark to compensate for the bright sky. Bummer.

The problem is we don't really want the correct over all screen brightness. We want the subject we are focusing on to be the brightest possible, while still retaing detail. Other wise, focusing is more difficult or impossible. You would not buy an expensive DSLR/mirrorless with program only exposure controls, and the liveview is the same. We need a choice.

2. As someone already posted, photographing the moon is very difficult. The camera sees all the dark dark sky and boosts the exposure so much the moon
is totally blown out. This makes it almost impossible to focus. Even though I know the correct exposure it can't manually be set for the LCD. Only fix I have found is using spot metering and keeping moon in center of frame. With a long lens, or telescope without tracking, it means you have seconds to shoot as the moon moves out of the frame. Very little time to focus and shoot. Plus the atmosphere is constantly changing focus.

If The K-01 is able to turn auto screen adjustment off in video, it should give us a way to do it in manual exposure still mode.

thanks
barondla

I still love the brick.
04-19-2014, 05:20 AM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by fgaudet Quote
Yes the LCD will compensate the best it can, no matter what mode. It'll stay bright to help focussing.
That's not correct. The LCD itself stays at a fixed brightness - the image displayed on the LCD changes because the camera is compensating for ND filter by ramping the ISO with the Iris full open to make it easier to focus.


QuoteOriginally posted by Steve.Ledger Quote
PS: In video mode, the LCD reacts exactly as expected (doesn't compensate), so that's something I guess.
That's because in Video liveview the ISO ramping has been locked down since firmware 1.04 ( yay !! )

QuoteOriginally posted by Steve.Ledger Quote
I respectfully disagree that you can simulate the effect and purpose of an ND filter in software. An ND filter is designed to physically change the settings you are able to use with camera in a given light environment.
+1
Steve: Opinions of the Cokin ND? I haven't observed any colour shift yet, but I only grabbed it because I already had an A-series filter mount that came with my first Panasonic MS4, and the ring it had matched my 50 f2

QuoteOriginally posted by jon404 Quote
Maybe they used that great K-01 video to shoot Gravity... we'll see!
Jon! How dare you ! Mentioning such and awesome camera in the same sentence as that horrid film with plot holes bigger then a gravitational singularity!

QuoteOriginally posted by raider Quote
If I put on the ND400
400? What in heck are you pointing the lens at? The sun??

Simple work around Steve: put the ND in place, go to video mode, set the settings where you want to give what you like in the screen, spin the mode dial back to M, press the shutter

Actually,.... Set the Red button to Preview, the +/- will swap between Shutter Speed and Iris, and the Red will hold the Iris closed to where you have it set.
( Hrm,.. I need to test that in daylight, seems to be some difference according to if the Iris is being set on the lens or the body )

Last edited by PiDicus Rex; 04-19-2014 at 05:42 AM.
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