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05-17-2018, 04:12 PM   #46
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QuoteOriginally posted by reh321 Quote
Before I got my Q-7 3-1/2 years ago, guys tried to convince me that the right hat would make it useable in the sun. They were wrong. A Hoodman does make it useable, adding to the size {but not to the weight}

Yes, the view with a Hoodman is quite good IMHO, but it's awkward to handle and yet another piece of gear to keep track of. As for a hatů If you wear a wide brimmed hat and a dark shirt, it does help. With my Q7 I can get by "mostly OK" that way, and the GRD4's screen is even better. But it seemed to me the K-01's LCD was weaker than average, and it was a source of some considerable frustration.

06-03-2018, 04:33 AM   #47
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For what it's worth, my 5c: I use my K-01 win manual lenses only.
PK-mount compatibility with m42 lenses and cheap price were my reasons.

The in-body stabilization was also one important factor, but I don't shoot my K-01 in 'bad weather' anyways, so mostly sunny shots and I get light well over the mm-shutter speed rule, so that the SR is not always needed. For video it is of course noticeable and a very welcome feature. The Pentax K-m42 adapter is great, but I have many lenses that are 'slim' at the mount - the K-flange results in holes where m42 bodies do not have any - this results in light leaks for many lenses. But its nothing a little blue-tack or aluminium foil tape cannot solve.I use a wide variety of old Russian lenses, but I also have full set of 24mm to 200mm with PK mounts, all SMC Pentax-M.

---------- Post added 06-03-18 at 02:41 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by conradj Quote
How does the K-01 handle generally? Is it a slow and measured kindo camera, can it be handled off the cuff and quickly and still produce good shots? i read the shutter's louder than the top tier Pentax bodies. Does the shutter noise carry?

i tend towards turtle speed with the dSLR, but like to work fast and unobtrusively with a P&S type cam. Move myself into position first before even lifting up the camera for a peek, and put it down and reposition myself, or walk away, if it doesn't look right.
With manual lenses taking photos can be slow and the LCD really isn't the greatest - the shooting position can be quite awkward and people can't support the camera on their cheek like with a DSLR. I shoot in full manual mode, and the green button is used for light metering/shutter speed auto setup. After I get the settings correct, then shooting is only focus and shoot, so, pretty fast.

Shutter is noisy, but it depends on the situation whether it is an issue.
06-03-2018, 01:38 PM   #48
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mandibela Quote
With manual lenses taking photos can be slow and the LCD really isn't the greatest - the shooting position can be quite awkward and people can't support the camera on their cheek like with a DSLR.
This is the Achilles Heel of the K-01.
I firmly believe Pentax learned the wrong lesson from the K-01.
They "learned" that MILC doesn't work for them.
They should have learned that MILC doesn't work without EVF.

My Q-7 works great with my Hoodman clone turning the LCD into a viewfinder .... but that adds to the size {not to the weight}
06-03-2018, 03:07 PM   #49
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QuoteOriginally posted by reh321 Quote
This is the Achilles Heel of the K-01.
I firmly believe Pentax learned the wrong lesson from the K-01.
They "learned" that MILC doesn't work for them.
They should have learned that MILC doesn't work without EVF.
It does kind of look that way. Pentax (and Ricoh) have produced quite a few cameras without mirrors, but they've been stubbornly allergic to EVF. I think that's unfortunate, and it's only become more unfortunate as EVFs have continued to improve.

06-03-2018, 05:34 PM   #50
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Belding Quote
It does kind of look that way. Pentax (and Ricoh) have produced quite a few cameras without mirrors, but they've been stubbornly allergic to EVF. I think that's unfortunate, and it's only become more unfortunate as EVFs have continued to improve.
People didn't take the Canon EOS-M seriously ... it didn't have an EVF.
They are taking the Canon EOS-M50 seriously ... it does have an EVF.

Maybe Canon has learned something.
06-04-2018, 11:51 PM   #51
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
There are numerous bodies available, but if you want the full character of those lenses as they were originally intended to be used, I'd suggest a full-frame sensor body. To keep the budget down, that really means a Sony A7. It's not stabilised, but if you keep the shutter speed above 1 / focal length, you should be fine. If not, raise the shutter speed even higher. I don't have the steadiest hands either, and using that rule I can still capture sharp photos without any obvious signs of shake.

If you want cheaper still, you're looking at an APS-C or smaller sensor, and possibly something without a viewfinder. If that's acceptable, then any of the Sony NEX cameras could be an excellent choice. Plenty of used models around to choose from, and as a result the prices are pretty competitive - but the image quality is very good indeed. You could even add a "speed booster" / focal length reducer and get almost-full-frame field of view, albeit with some impact on image quality away from the centre of the frame. Again, the reciprocal rule applies on shutter speed, but for APS-C it's 1 / focal length x 1.5 (to compensate for the x1.5 crop).
But the original A7 does not have in-body stablization, and its shutter shock is close to what you would expect from something similar to a ME Super (I have one). Even though I consider my hands fairly stable, I almost always shoot A7 with a battery grip, just to balance out the shutter shock, and even with the grip I can't get away with anything lower than 1/60s for my FA 31 Limited.
06-05-2018, 12:46 AM   #52
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QuoteOriginally posted by butangmucat Quote
But the original A7 does not have in-body stablization, and its shutter shock is close to what you would expect from something similar to a ME Super (I have one).
Indeed - but that's a necessary compromise if the OP wants a cheap full-frame mirrorless body.

My Hasselblad HV (Sony A99) has SteadyShot IBIS, but unlike later Sony models it doesn't allow the focal length to be manually set, so for lenses with no electronic contacts (i.e. anything manual) I switch the feature off. I don't have the steadiest of hands, but I can shoot it using the reciprocal rule of 1 / focal length with most of my lenses and get a high proportion of keepers. It has the same 24MP sensor as the A7.

The SteadyShot IBIS of the A7II works wonders (I rely on it regularly), but it comes at a significant premium (whether new or used) over the original A7...
06-05-2018, 12:51 AM   #53
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
Indeed - but that's a necessary compromise if the OP wants a cheap full-frame mirrorless body.

My Hasselblad HV (Sony A99) has SteadyShot IBIS, but unlike later Sony models it doesn't allow the focal length to be manually set, so for lenses with no electronic contacts (i.e. anything manual) I switch the feature off. I don't have the steadiest of hands, but I can shoot it using the reciprocal rule of 1 / focal length with most of my lenses and get a high proportion of keepers. It has the same 24MP sensor as the A7.

The SteadyShot IBIS of the A7II works wonders (I rely on it regularly), but it comes at a significant premium (whether new or used) over the original A7...
I usually shoot 1/(2 * FL), with battery grip, no slower than 1/60s for common FLs (24-90), and with electronic first curtain on. Even with these constraints, I need to put my A7 in continuous drive to get some keepers - mostly because of its shutter shock is fairly high, especially considering its weight.

IIRC the HV is actually slightly heavier than the A99, which is in turn heavier than the A7. The shutter of A7 IMHO is just not well-damped, even with the grip attached. The SLTs IMHO are generally better damped.

06-05-2018, 12:53 AM   #54
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QuoteOriginally posted by butangmucat Quote
IIRC the HV is actually slightly heavier than the A99, which is in turn heavier than the A7. The shutter of A7 IMHO is just not well-damped, even with grip.
Yes, you're right - the HV is quite heavy, and in fact much of the time I shoot it with the VG-C99A grip fitted. The weight does make a big difference for stability and damping of shutter shock...
06-05-2018, 03:17 AM   #55
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
Yes, you're right - the HV is quite heavy, and in fact much of the time I shoot it with the VG-C99A grip fitted. The weight does make a big difference for stability and damping of shutter shock...
That kind of shutter shock is not good. I recently took a hand-held picture with my Q-7 where the shutter speed was under 1/10




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