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08-04-2022, 07:35 AM - 4 Likes   #1
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Pentax K-01 disassembly

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The most common reason for having to disassemble the K-01 is for the Mode-Dial (my reason) and for replacing the LCD.
But a know problem is the stuck shutter, not so easy if one has to replace the solenoids, a complete dis- and reassembly is needed if one wants to get to the two solenoids which lift and hold the shutter.


Disassembly steps:

Preparation:
Take photos of each side of your K-01, print them out and glue them on cardboard. Then pinch tiny holes where the screws are located, they are of different length and you then can just stick each into those holes and when assembling you know where which screw belongs. The K-01 is very different to other Pentax bodies so templates from other bodies won't serve well enough.
A JIS (Jap. Ind. Standard) 00 or 000 screwdriver (I use the Vessel 9902-set which is perfect) is the best, PH00 will do as well but isn't perfect and if used too often will damage the JIS-screws. I magnetize the tip of the screwdriver which helps to lift the screw out of the hole.


1. Five screws on the bottom:


2. Three screws batterydoor open + one screw deep inside the battery compartment:


3. One screw next to the opened SD-Card-Slot:


4. One screw frontside under the rubber:


5. Three screws side left side (under rubber) + 2 screws (green arrows) strapholder:



6. Eight screws right side (under rubber) + 2 screws (green arrows) strapholder:


Strapholders with screws, here the right side:


7. Two screws flash popped up:



8. When lifting the top you find two more screws holding the back part with LCD:



a) Now you have access for example to the inner side of the top to access the Mode-Dial:


b) Soldered as shown here:


c) Diaphragm control motor (no solenoid as in many other Pentax DSLR but same unit as in K7/5/3/KP):


d) Diaphragm control itself:


e) Shutter + diaphragm-control:


f) Shutter:


g) Hidden underneath two solenoids for lifting and holding the shutter up:


h) The two solenoids which lift the shutter:

Those two solenoids are responsible for the shutter. If your K-01's shutter won't work anymore, then either those two solenoids are the problem (very difficult to access, you have to disassemble your K-01 almost complety, many hours of work involved) or (in more rare cases) it is the the electronic driving the solenoids (sadly I have no shematics for this and cannot offer any help there)

i) 3" LCD:


j) Motherboard + Sensor:


On the left side you can see the back-up battery (could be called C-MOS), a Seiko MS414FE 3V lithium-cell. If drained (by leaving the K-01 too long without main battery, easier to replace than many other Pentax DSLR which have it on the backside of the mainboard.



The following pictures show the AF-motor including gear and clutch.
Most Pentax-AF motors are pretty much identical but some are stronger such as the one in the K3 and K1.

k) The AF-Motor:


l) All AF-Motorparts including clutch:


m) The clutch itself:



Last edited by photogem; 04-15-2023 at 11:11 PM.
08-04-2022, 08:54 AM   #2
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Picture 4 is missing. Interesting even though I don't have a K-01!
08-04-2022, 09:16 AM   #3
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Hello,

Bookmarked for reference!
My K-01 "died" as the shutter no longer opens. I suspect it may be the solenoids.
Any idea? Also, any idea what part to get and where to get it from?

Thanks,
Ismael
08-04-2022, 10:38 AM   #4
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Thank you, very interesting to see

08-04-2022, 02:10 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by JohnX Quote
Picture 4 is missing. Interesting even though I don't have a K-01!
thx... done
08-04-2022, 02:14 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by ismaelg Quote
Hello,

Bookmarked for reference!
My K-01 "died" as the shutter no longer opens. I suspect it may be the solenoids.
Any idea? Also, any idea what part to get and where to get it from?

Thanks,
Ismael
Too bad I then when taking the photos didn't go deeper but I had disassembled so many Pentax DSLRs that I suspect any since the *ist-D has the same two solenoids.
Not a job I want to take on though... this then really is digging deep into the K-01!
08-05-2022, 10:27 AM   #7
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Thanks for all the pictures … now I know how to get to the clock battery
All I need to do now is source a clock battery … not so easy with all the latest postage restrictions

08-05-2022, 10:50 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by kypfer Quote
Thanks for all the pictures … now I know how to get to the clock battery
All I need to do now is source a clock battery...
Same one as in the K30 etc.:
Tutorial: Change Back-up Battery Pentax K-30, K-50, K-500 - PentaxForums.com

seiko ms414fe fl26e: Search Result | eBay

QuoteOriginally posted by kypfer Quote
....not so easy with all the latest postage restrictions
I always thought that ordering from Japan etc. would be quite easy.
But then... China does show it's muscles these days... Does it mean you can't order from China anymore?

Maybe the larger version:
"MS621FE FL11E"
08-05-2022, 03:08 PM - 1 Like   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by kypfer Quote
Thanks for all the pictures … now I know how to get to the clock battery
All I need to do now is source a clock battery … not so easy with all the latest postage restrictions
I had the same thought, but then thought--I don't know if I want to dig that deep just to deal with occasionally resetting the date. Resetting the date won't destroy the camera, me with a screwdriver might.
08-09-2022, 01:50 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
I always thought that ordering from Japan etc. would be quite easy.
But then... China does show it's muscles these days... Does it mean you can't order from China anymore?
It's not the source of the item that's the issue, but the nature of the item.
All mail locally comes in by air and there are expensive restrictions regarding "loose" lithium batteries in air freight.
When I tried to return a faulty clone D-Li109 battery under warranty recently I was quoted nearly £20 postage … and that's before the replacement was sent!
08-09-2022, 06:19 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by kypfer Quote
It's not the source of the item that's the issue, but the nature of the item.
All mail locally comes in by air and there are expensive restrictions regarding "loose" lithium batteries in air freight.
When I tried to return a faulty clone D-Li109 battery under warranty recently I was quoted nearly £20 postage … and that's before the replacement was sent!
Ah.... so it's registered under "explosives"!

CCR (Cheap Chinese Rubbish)*

I hitherto apologize if the similarity between China and California would cause a revolt:
I still like songs like Pentax-Q

Last edited by photogem; 08-09-2022 at 06:34 AM.
10-10-2022, 02:05 PM   #12
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All I can say is, that's a LOT of screws!
10-10-2022, 11:01 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by reh321 Quote
Are all the screws the same, or should someone following these instructions keep track of which screws were removed in which step?
Good point and very important!

For me myself it is so common that I prepare accordingly that I didn't think of the importance of this information.


So added in the main text!
10-12-2022, 11:41 AM   #14
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Brave action! Those two faulty solenoids are hidden awfully deep in the body. Not doable to fix these for amateurs with shaky hands. And so far, nobody confirmed these solenoids caused the shutter stuck failure by replacing them with new ones.

In case this is exact the same shutter as used in the K-30, you could cannibalize a broken one to fix the K-01.

Do you maybe have more pictures of the two solenoids, how these are situated in the shutter mechanism?
10-12-2022, 10:34 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by Henrico Quote
In case this is exact the same shutter as used in the K-30, you could cannibalize a broken one to fix the K-01.
I would think they are the same ones but I am not sure. See post #6.

QuoteOriginally posted by Henrico Quote
Do you maybe have more pictures of the two solenoids, how these are situated in the shutter mechanism?
No, sadly not.
You have to do a complete disassembly, really complete. All flexboards have to come out then the sensor, the aperture controlblock (with the motor),

they sit really in the deepest spot.

Because except for doing quick video I prefer the K-S1 in every respect and one can get hold of one with a stuck solenoid sometimes quite cheaply. what risk such a complex repair (which Ricoh won't do and with a large uncertainty for success) when a K-S1 is a cheap and great alternative and only that tiny bit larger?


HERE you can study the complete and complex service manual for the K30. You will see that they don't offer replacement of those 2 solenoids. But all the steps to just come close to them are explained. I did this work a few times to a complete damaged *ist-DL and a K100D, here a photo of the 2 solenoids on the backside of an *ist-DL-shutter (sorry for the quality...resolution of the original was changed already for an upload somewere else and I didn't keep the original with high resolution):
Attached Images
 
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access, control, diaphragm, disassembly, k-01, k01, mirrorless, pentax k-01, rubber, screw, screws, shutter

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