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05-23-2013, 11:40 AM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by Docrwm Quote
Ok, Larry. I'll go back and add a bit.
Thanks for doing this Doc, lots of interesting details that I never knew. You should do a watch blog.

05-23-2013, 11:41 AM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by stormtech Quote
This is great! Good suggestion Larry.
Glad to do it, but I thought it might bore others. Hope people enjoy it. The first one on the Mido Chronograph is from a review I wrote years ago. Went to the Watch Forum and cut and pasted it here.
05-23-2013, 11:53 AM   #33
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I just read through your added commentary - I really appreciate that as I can learn about these different watches while admiring the photos.

First thing that came to my mind in the first couple - the divers watches - do people really take beautiful instruments like this under water - even salt water?
05-23-2013, 12:01 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by stormtech Quote
I just read through your added commentary - I really appreciate that as I can learn about these different watches while admiring the photos.

First thing that came to my mind in the first couple - the divers watches - do people really take beautiful instruments like this under water - even salt water?
Stan,

Divers who dive for work use computers these days, but they often have a real dive watch on too as a back-up. Yes, these watches are made for use in salt water and will withstand normal diving pressures for an Air mixture. If you are going on mixed gasses for the dive then you'll need a much more expensive and specialized watch that has a Helium release value built into it for use in the decompression chamber. I do not own one as they are mostly an affectation by those who own them, and they are much more expensive without added functionality unless you actually spend time in a decompression chamber.

Wikipedia has a nice article on Dive Watches (I've helped edit it in the distant past) that covers them in great detail. Dive watches are the most popular of the men's automatic movement watches these days because they are seen as more robust and therefore Macho than other types. I like Chronographs and tool watches so I have a few dive watches but mostly because the Seiko's have killer lume and can be used under nearly any conditions - sort of like our K-5's and the WR lenses

Diving watch - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

05-24-2013, 10:57 AM   #35
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Ok Doc - I understand a bit more now. I kind of figured the fancy dive watches were somewhat of a statement piece. My quick analogy is people with 4WD vehicles who never drive off the pavement.

Neat stuff - keep it coming!
05-24-2013, 11:53 AM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by stormtech Quote
Ok Doc - I understand a bit more now. I kind of figured the fancy dive watches were somewhat of a statement piece. My quick analogy is people with 4WD vehicles who never drive off the pavement.

Neat stuff - keep it coming!
Stan,

Spot on analogy. We call them Desk Divers and they account for most of the Dive watch sales.
05-24-2013, 12:02 PM   #37
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May 24, 2013

1956 Bulova Concentric. Once among their top of the line automatic watches, the Concentrics had 23 Jewel American made movements that had 6 Adjustments: Heat- Cold- Isochronism & 3 Positions. This makes them as fine tuned as a Chronometer grade watch. This is a very sought after version with Horn lugs (the curved bits that hold the strap to the watch) and Red date indicator. It's very small by today's standards for a man's watch but back int he day it was the height of American made fashion in Men's watches. This Bulova "23 Calendar" with self winding movement has the Arrow head tipped red pointer hand that indicates date and can be advanced manually by a small pusher above the winding crown. Dial is near flawless, case is in gorgeous condition with only a couple dings in one of the lugs.

From the 1800's through the 1960s the American Watch Industry was robust and offered everything from Sear $1 watches to the highest end makes. Among the makers that were household names were Waltham, Hamilton, Elgin, Buren, Benrus, Timex, and Bulova. Many watch companies were headquartered in Pennsylvania and the leading watch maker school was in Lancaster, PA.

Last edited by Docrwm; 05-24-2013 at 06:07 PM.
05-25-2013, 05:29 AM   #38
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Speaking of Timex, remember these ads?





05-25-2013, 06:18 AM   #39
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Slava Medical Watch - Made in the USSR circa 1986.
26 Jewel Slava 2428 Movement in it that is hand wound and has double main springs.
Has a plastic "crystal" and is made of chrome covered base metal.
You wait for the seconds hand to be in vertical position (at 12 or at 6) and count 15 heart beats. The inner scale then tell the pulse.
Several "medical" watches were made in the USSR from other factories. Luch, Raketa, Chaika made medical watches, but they all had quartz movements.
The Slava is the best known and appreciated, because of several factors - mechanical movement, rectangular shape, vertical day-date window and a very distinctive look.
I got mine about 7 years ago when I was in a Soviet watch phase. There were apparently several hundred in Italy of all places and they were going for $45 each plus shipping.
Now you can't find one for <$200, if you can find one.


Last edited by Docrwm; 05-25-2013 at 06:30 AM.
05-26-2013, 09:07 AM   #40
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Seiko Spirit SCVS013 "Blue Spark"
A dress watch with Seiko's hand winding and automatic 6R15B movement in it. Clean, clean, lines with a warm white dial, silver hour markers, sweep second hand, date indicator, and blued hands. The hands catch the light and light up with a blue spark, hence the nickname the Seiko watch collecting community bestowed upon this model.

Here is my review of the watch from a watch forum done in 2009.

The Spirit SCVS013 features a 37.5 mm case width, a sapphire crystal, warm white dial, blued hands, classic silver SEIKO bar indices, and large outlined date window at 3 o'clock.

List Price: 37,800 Yen
Purchase Price: $260.00 (currently $329.00)
Movement: 6R15B - 23 Jewel - automatic winding (with Hand winding and Hack function)
Movement size: 27.4x5.3mm
Frequency: 6 vibrations/second
Case: Stainless steel
Claimed Accuracy : +25/-15 sec/day
Power reserve: 50 Hour
Water Resistance: 10 ATM/100m/330ft
Dimensions: 37.5 w/o Crown x 11.2mm
Front Crystal: Sapphire
Rear Crystal: Hardlex
Weight: 64g
Strap: Cordovan - Black (genuine Horsehide)

Beyond their being Seikos, there are several features that drew me to the Spirit line - the use of a new movement comparable to the ETA 2824-2, the classic, clean lines of the designs, and the very affordable price. The 013 - "Blue Spark" was my choice because of its beauty. The warm white color of the unadorned dial and the sparkling blue hands combine to create a very Japanese simplicity that is deceiving. In normal room light the hands of the 013 look almost black, but get direct light - preferably sunlight - on them and they light up with the most marvelous blue color. Here is a picture from Seiya-San that captures the blued hands better than any of my photos:

All the Spirit Mechanicals are powered by the 6R15 movement that was released in 2005. The 6R15 was upgraded about a year ago by changing 6 parts for those used in the Premier line (6R20) thereby increasing interchangeability between the two models. The picture below is of my own 013 - I was fortunate enough to receive one of the first "B" model 6R15s.

The 6 different parts are: the barrel and train wheel bridge, the movement barrel (complete), the centre wheel & pinion, the ratchet wheel, the oscillating weight and the ratchet wheel.

A reviewer from the Seiko Citizen Watch Forum made an excellent point about the Spirit line regarding their Crowns. "hacking and handwinding are frustrating options if the crown is not designed correctly. This has been a problem with SEIKO watches in the past, for instance, with the mid-'90's Alpinist that had the 4S15 caliber movement in it. That watch had a crown that was slippery and hard to grasp. The inefficent crown design made it difficult to handwind and screw down the crown on the 4S Alpinist. Not so with the new Spirits. From the side (crown is pulled out) it looks large as a water wheel. Circumference of Circle = PI x diameter = 2 PI x radius where PI =3.141592... You don't need to be a mathematician to realize the circle of the Spirit's crown is the idea diameter."

I couldn't agree more with his statement that the Spirit's crown is the idea diameter. More than that, its easy to grasp, easy to pull out, and easy to manipulate while also being beautiful.

The Spirit line comes with strap and bracelet options. The 013 comes with a Black Cordovan strap that is good for up to about 7 1/4 in wrists. Regarding the strap, the following was taken from Watch-Tanaka.Com: “band leather band (cordovan)*

* - The [kodoban] band, the gluteal area of the large-sized agriculture horse (the part of the rear end) it is something which uses the skin. There is a feature such that surface strength is strong in addition to the unique wind being agreeable, in comparison with the cow leather, is difficult to become the wrinkle.”

I swapped out the stock strap for an XL black Seiko strap with curved end pieces that started life on a Primier watch. Seen here on the SRN0051p model -

I was fortunate enough to be able to get it with a Seiko branded deployant from Yokobies. Below is my 013 with the strap - note the notches at the watch head where the screws from the Primier watches would be located.

The Spirit line from Seiko is a clear winner, as evidenced by the number of models that have been added over the past two years to the lineup. These watches have superior fit and finish, a hackable, hand-winding 23 jewel automatic movement, and great beauty in an understated Japanese way. My 013 has averaged +-4 seconds when worn regularly. Examination under 10x finds no marks on the case or crystal after nearly 2 years of ownership! This is a testament to Seiko not to my being careful - you should see some of my other watches

Overall, absolutely terrific quality. I would not hesitate to purchase my "Blue Spark" again.

05-26-2013, 11:28 AM   #41
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That Soviet medical watch is very cool! First one I've ever seen, though I've had some nurses that looked and acted like they came from Mother Russia!
05-26-2013, 01:20 PM   #42
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The Blue Spark is one of my favorites so far. I guess I like the simplistic design and color with the touch of color in the hands. Uncluttered face makes it easy to read. Sometimes simple is good!
05-26-2013, 03:10 PM   #43
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I wear this every other week. Circa 1965

Roamer Stingray Roto44Date
Auto Movement
44 Jewels
Waterproof case with press fit patented construction.
20mn Gold plating.



Info page about the movement which was quite advanced for its time.

Roamer Watches Info

MST 436
05-26-2013, 04:48 PM   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tom S. Quote
That Soviet medical watch is very cool! First one I've ever seen, though I've had some nurses that looked and acted like they came from Mother Russia!
- I know what you mean. Yes, the Soviet Medical Watch is pretty cool. When I sold off my Russian/Soviet watches (most are junk) it and one Poljot Alarm are all I kept.

QuoteOriginally posted by stormtech Quote
The Blue Spark is one of my favorites so far. I guess I like the simplistic design and color with the touch of color in the hands. Uncluttered face makes it easy to read. Sometimes simple is good!
Yes, and that is one of the Japanese design ethics that I appreciate. My all-time Grail watch is this one....

It too is simple in design and elegant. It is also a Seiko made specifically for the household of the Emperor of Japan. My Spark is a poor imitation but I believe has the same essential design elements as this Grand Seiko with more polish and adjustments than any other Seiko I have ever heard of, naturally as only the finest can enter the Emperor's Household.

QuoteOriginally posted by robbiec Quote
I wear this every other week. Circa 1965

Roamer Stingray Roto44Date
Auto Movement
44 Jewels
Waterproof case with press fit patented construction.
20mn Gold plating.

Info page about the movement which was quite advanced for its time.
Roamer Watches Info

MST 436
Lovely Roamer. I knew some Roamer collectors and they were almost all Brits who just loved the things to death. Yours is a nice example of one with lower beats per minute (21,600) and a high jewel count (artificial rubies are used as pivots in watches, although some are added in unnecessary places to artificially raise the jewel count thereby adding an air of greater quality). That said, your watch has a really groundbreaking movement in it that is built like a tank.

"So, there is one MST caliber that stands out: Cal 436 (437 has date); this watch has 44 jewels, including 5 ruby ball bearngs for the rotor and 5 ruby roller bearings in each of the two reversing wheels. To date nobody on the planet has made such good reversing wheels and unlike other bogus high jewel count movements all the jewels are functional. The gearing is set so low on these it takes almost no effort to swing the rotor and there is very very little torque transmitted trhough the selfwinding geartrain. Morseo the gears are utterly massive. This thing will just never weat out and sure enough none of mine show the sligheest evidence of wear."
05-26-2013, 05:35 PM   #45
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Re: the Seikos - elegant is the perfect descriptive word that escaped me.

Question Doc - does a watch collector venture into clocks also, or is that an entirely different field?
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