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10-17-2018, 11:44 PM - 3 Likes   #1381
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I've still got the same car, and still enjoy it, despite a few wear and tear things popping up.

And also having done the old "learn from experience" thing.

One of the main things I've wanted to do is give it a bit more grunt, since it's noticeably lacking.

The original plan was to build the head, use some big-ish cams, and then when the bottom end finally goes boom, build that bigger (ideally bore it out ~2mm to bring it to about 1920cc or whatever the maths works out to be, but that would depend on budget)

Step 1 would always be to organise an ECU so that, well, it will actually run with those changes.
The plan was to install that and tune on the untouched engine to iron out issues, then move onto changing bits.

And here's where the problems started...

I purchased an Adaptronic ECU since they had local support, and also a tuner near me who both tunes them, and also has a name for being one of the best tuners in the state.

Turns out he was rubbish at it.
First tune the car would lean out when the throttle was applied slightly fast, it also had severe idle hunting and would often stall.

Second tune he fixed that, but at high RPM shifts it would misfire. Also on cold mornings it would flood (not just a little, i'm talking backfire out the intake, and shoot 4 feet of flame from the exhaust before hydrolocking)

Third tune he'd fixed the start, well, it started at least. But the throttle was back to how it was at step 1.... and light throttle was absolutely undrivable.

Fourth time he emailed me a few tune files with someone else's name on them and a story about "sorry for that, got the name wrong but they're your tune files i've changed" I knew that was BS, since the MX5/Miata community here is pretty small, and even though I dislike most of them, i do know them.... he'd sent me someone else's tune... Fine with that, but dont lie to me, just tell me that's what you've done.

I ended up managing to tidy up the tune a little to at least be drivable, if rough, in about 10mins in my driveway.... when looking at the tune it was all over the shop. Mainly the predictive MAP for the transient throttle settings. They're supposed to taper with RPM/Load etc.... he'd just made an arbitrary guess at 120kpa across the board (worth noting, 120kpa is positive pressure compared to atmosphere, which isn't actually possible on a naturally aspirated car)


So yeah, after all that with the tuner I just gave up on him, 4 visits, and some lies, and I still got a car that ran like garbage.


I'm at a crossroads now.
The ECU has been removed, advertised for sale, and the factory one put back, since it runs great on the un-modified engine.
But I need to decide now where to go.

Get a different, better supported ECU (and a better tuner)
Or just give up and leave the car standard and deal with it being slow.

Still looks nice at least, and now handles well again since I replaced the faulty brake proportioning valve (doesnt brake too well when the valve is stuck open meaning the rear brakes werent doing anything)


10-18-2018, 02:18 AM   #1382
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Hey, haven’t seen you around for a while.

Welcome back!

QuoteOriginally posted by hks_kansei Quote
I've still got the same car, and still enjoy it, despite a few wear and tear things popping up.

And also having done the old "learn from experience" thing.

One of the main things I've wanted to do is give it a bit more grunt, since it's noticeably lacking.

The original plan was to build the head, use some big-ish cams, and then when the bottom end finally goes boom, build that bigger (ideally bore it out ~2mm to bring it to about 1920cc or whatever the maths works out to be, but that would depend on budget)

Step 1 would always be to organise an ECU so that, well, it will actually run with those changes.
The plan was to install that and tune on the untouched engine to iron out issues, then move onto changing bits.

And here's where the problems started...

I purchased an Adaptronic ECU since they had local support, and also a tuner near me who both tunes them, and also has a name for being one of the best tuners in the state.

Turns out he was rubbish at it.
First tune the car would lean out when the throttle was applied slightly fast, it also had severe idle hunting and would often stall.

Second tune he fixed that, but at high RPM shifts it would misfire. Also on cold mornings it would flood (not just a little, i'm talking backfire out the intake, and shoot 4 feet of flame from the exhaust before hydrolocking)

Third tune he'd fixed the start, well, it started at least. But the throttle was back to how it was at step 1.... and light throttle was absolutely undrivable.

Fourth time he emailed me a few tune files with someone else's name on them and a story about "sorry for that, got the name wrong but they're your tune files i've changed" I knew that was BS, since the MX5/Miata community here is pretty small, and even though I dislike most of them, i do know them.... he'd sent me someone else's tune... Fine with that, but dont lie to me, just tell me that's what you've done.

I ended up managing to tidy up the tune a little to at least be drivable, if rough, in about 10mins in my driveway.... when looking at the tune it was all over the shop. Mainly the predictive MAP for the transient throttle settings. They're supposed to taper with RPM/Load etc.... he'd just made an arbitrary guess at 120kpa across the board (worth noting, 120kpa is positive pressure compared to atmosphere, which isn't actually possible on a naturally aspirated car)


So yeah, after all that with the tuner I just gave up on him, 4 visits, and some lies, and I still got a car that ran like garbage.


I'm at a crossroads now.
The ECU has been removed, advertised for sale, and the factory one put back, since it runs great on the un-modified engine.
But I need to decide now where to go.

Get a different, better supported ECU (and a better tuner)
Or just give up and leave the car standard and deal with it being slow.

Still looks nice at least, and now handles well again since I replaced the faulty brake proportioning valve (doesnt brake too well when the valve is stuck open meaning the rear brakes werent doing anything)
Sounds like you have had a bit of a runaround.

Didn’t you also have an older Holden with the inline six?
10-18-2018, 02:48 AM - 1 Like   #1383
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Yep, still have it.
Although it hasnt been driven in a while.

A combination of not having the time to drive it, and not really wanting to take it out in modern traffic lest it be crashed into by some moron busy sending a text.
we didnt bother renewing the rego, since we figured why pay almost $1000 to register a car we didnt drive.

It's currently for sale, but so far no takers, hoping the summer weather encourages people to want to get into a classic car.




The main car my partner and I drive now is a 1994 Mazda 626 station wagon.
My partner wanted it because they're super easy to work on, reliable, cheap, and she used to own one and missed it.

A friend mentioned he knew someone selling one, and so we picked it up for $400 because it wasnt running right.
Turned out there was just a split in the intake hose making it run lean, $10 fix.

We did also replace a lot of other stuff though, like the clutch, shocks, some bushes, etc.

But yeah, that thing's a trooper. Quiet, comfy, and with the seats down it has an easy 6ft long load space.




I did also own a late model MG in between..... which was a lovely car for the brief periods it actually worked.
The MG is easily the worst car i've owned, I took a big loss when I sold it, but frankly I was glad to see the back of it.

---------- Post added 18-10-18 at 08:50 PM ----------

Also, thank you for the welcome back.

I've been lazy with photography and forums in general, so havent been online in a while.

I was without a computer for a while, and yeah, other stuff got in the way, life, work, silly cars etc.
10-18-2018, 03:55 PM - 1 Like   #1384
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hks_kansei, I've heard really good things about Megasquirt. Completely customizable, accurate, reliable, etc. I was tempted to install one on a turbo Volvo project I had going for a while but the car developed terminal wiring harness rot, so I abandoned that project. If I ever decide to heavily customize another car in the future, these folks will be the first I'll try.

MegaSquirt | Premier DIY EFI Controller

Megasquirt systems can be purchased from these folks, as well as other resellers. MS lists several at their website.
https://www.diyautotune.com/

10-18-2018, 09:40 PM - 1 Like   #1385
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QuoteOriginally posted by hks_kansei Quote
I'm at a crossroads now.
The ECU has been removed, advertised for sale, and the factory one put back, since it runs great on the un-modified engine.
But I need to decide now where to go.

Get a different, better supported ECU (and a better tuner)
Or just give up and leave the car standard and deal with it being slow.
I read forum advice that suggested intake work and headers was the best first step beyond stock MX5, because the engine would never get a lot better without better breathing. That was great advice for me, because it sounded like too much trouble so I didn't do anything. If you add too much power, you have to start replacing parts that can't take the extra.

I was happy today that I have a pickup. I bought a new table saw, and the store just popped it in the bed with a forklift. At home, I slid it down a ramp I built out of scrap wood, and that was it. I doubt that an SUV would have worked as well.

(might be time to get a new car cover for the MX5)

10-19-2018, 07:37 AM - 1 Like   #1386
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Something else you might want to consider if you're really serious about getting more hp out of your MX-5 is a turbocharger or a supercharger kit. Prices range from reasonable to pricey. Here's a YouTube video where a guy runs both types around a race track:

10-19-2018, 11:32 PM   #1387
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Most of the ready to roll kits are from the US, which makes postage costs very costly.


Main reason though is that the laws here make turbocharging/supercharging illegal (well, without also spending more than the cost of the kit itself to have it tested etc)
Doing Naturally aspirated work is also not legal, however it's a lot less obvious (when the bonnet's up you can easily see a turbo hanging off the side, but cant see head porting/shaving and bigger cams)



Mainly as well, I just like cammy N/A stuff.

---------- Post added 20-10-18 at 05:38 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by cooltouch Quote
hks_kansei, I've heard really good things about Megasquirt. Completely customizable, accurate, reliable, etc. I was tempted to install one on a turbo Volvo project I had going for a while but the car developed terminal wiring harness rot, so I abandoned that project. If I ever decide to heavily customize another car in the future, these folks will be the first I'll try.

MegaSquirt | Premier DIY EFI Controller

Megasquirt systems can be purchased from these folks, as well as other resellers. MS lists several at their website.
https://www.diyautotune.com/

I've also heard good things about them.

And once I sell the Adaptronic ECU, if I decide to continue looking for more power, i'll very much consider an MS3.
Either that, or a Haltech.

Really depends on what has the support etc at the time.




Short term i'll just shorten the gearing to make it feel faster. There's a 4.7 (or 4.9, i forget) Torsen in the shed that I should probably open up and see if it's any good, and if it's a T2 or 2 (my current diff is a 4.1 Torsen2)

10-20-2018, 05:03 AM   #1388
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QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
I read forum advice that suggested intake work and headers was the best first step beyond stock MX5, because the engine would never get a lot better without better breathing. That was great advice for me, because it sounded like too much trouble so I didn't do anything. If you add too much power, you have to start replacing parts that can't take the extra.

I was happy today that I have a pickup. I bought a new table saw, and the store just popped it in the bed with a forklift. At home, I slid it down a ramp I built out of scrap wood, and that was it. I doubt that an SUV would have worked as well.

(might be time to get a new car cover for the MX5)
I used to do some minor, amateur woodworking, but that was about 25 years ago. I wasn't aware of SawStop woodworking equipment, but I took a brief look at their equipment in the internet. Very impressive stuff...the safety aspect is wonderful. Equipment has certainly evolved in a positive direction. I'm sure you will get a lot of satisfaction from your new cabinet saw.
10-20-2018, 02:22 PM   #1389
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QuoteOriginally posted by ivanvernon Quote
I don't know the brand but it is a big one with magnetic base so we can stick it up there and take it down when not needed. Its main function has now been taken over by a $2 app on the cell phone which shows everything moving on the highway for 20 miles in every direction.
Looks like a K-40 antenna, if so, good stuff.
10-20-2018, 03:02 PM   #1390
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QuoteOriginally posted by Canada_Rockies Quote
Whenever you take 3 West through into BC, we are the first place over the border in BC. A phone call might get you a free coffee!
I might just take you up on that next year. We travel through Sparwood on our way to Rosebery almost every September and spend our first and last night at Mountain Shadows.

---------- Post added 10-20-18 at 04:08 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Racer X 69 Quote
You live in the rust belt and drive a 1987 vintage car.

Impressive.
Rust belt is a bit of a misnomer. IIRC, it’s because there is a lot of steel production in the Midwest. Cars on the prairies are far less prone to rusting out providing the local road maintainers aren’t dumping a lot of salt on the streets. It’s drier on the prairies, so rust isn’t as much of a problem. On the coast cars are constantly in higher humidity conditions, which accelerates corrosion. I don’t know if being in the proximity of the ocean increases airborne salinity, but if it does, combine that with the ever present humidity and vehicles are not going to last as long.

---------- Post added 10-20-18 at 04:13 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
I read forum advice that suggested intake work and headers was the best first step beyond stock MX5, because the engine would never get a lot better without better breathing. That was great advice for me, because it sounded like too much trouble so I didn't do anything. If you add too much power, you have to start replacing parts that can't take the extra.

I was happy today that I have a pickup. I bought a new table saw, and the store just popped it in the bed with a forklift. At home, I slid it down a ramp I built out of scrap wood, and that was it. I doubt that an SUV would have worked as well.

(might be time to get a new car cover for the MX5)
I’m envious of the SawStop. I wanted one but just couldn’t bring myself to drop that much on a saw so I ended up with a Ridgid Cast Iron unit. It’s a very good tool for the price, but the first thing I do with a table saw is take the blade guards off, so that safety feature is very appealing to me.
I run with scissors too.
10-20-2018, 04:03 PM - 1 Like   #1391
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ex Finn. Quote
Looks like a K-40 antenna, if so, good stuff.
It definitely works good. I can play trucker when things get boring on the road!
10-20-2018, 05:08 PM   #1392
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QuoteOriginally posted by ivanvernon Quote
It definitely works good. I can play trucker when things get boring on the road!
What's your 20, come on?
10-20-2018, 05:14 PM   #1393
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QuoteOriginally posted by Wheatfield Quote
On the coast cars are constantly in higher humidity conditions, which accelerates corrosion. I don’t know if being in the proximity of the ocean increases airborne salinity, but if it does, combine that with the ever present humidity and vehicles are not going to last as long.
For sure, cars that spend most of the time within 25 miles of the coast do tend to rust out quickly, same for cars in places like Hawaii, and on islands in the Caribbean.

Where I live, in Western Washington, it isn't so much of a problem, even considering the humid climate and proximity to Puget Sound.
10-20-2018, 09:32 PM - 1 Like   #1394
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QuoteOriginally posted by Racer X 69 Quote
For sure, cars that spend most of the time within 25 miles of the coast do tend to rust out quickly, same for cars in places like Hawaii, and on islands in the Caribbean.
Northeast cars are notorious for rust... We have the coast and the road-salt to deal with.
10-21-2018, 12:01 AM - 1 Like   #1395
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QuoteOriginally posted by Racer X 69 Quote
What's your 20, come on?
Tex40 (Tex four oh)
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