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08-07-2015, 09:30 AM   #31
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I really don't feel comfortable having someone cut another opening in that plastic tank. If it would develop a leak, the inside of the suburban would be wrecked. Gluing something on, regardless of what is used, also worries me, when the tank sits in 100 degree weather to 40 below zero.

08-07-2015, 09:39 AM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by csa Quote
I really don't feel comfortable having someone cut another opening in that plastic tank. If it would develop a leak, the inside of the suburban would be wrecked. Gluing something on, regardless of what is used, also worries me, when the tank sits in 100 degree weather to 40 below zero.
Yes, nothing is without risk. But if you use an appropriate epoxy, it will be the strongest part of the tank and will not leak (around the edges). But of course the new valve itself could fail, just as your current valve could...
08-07-2015, 10:16 AM   #33
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Since your tank system is restricted by the house port (garden hose size) there really isn't anything you can do without changing that fitting/pipe on your house.

A pump isn't going to help for this.
08-07-2015, 10:25 AM   #34
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Thanks Stan. It would get much too involved to change everything over, and I would have to hire it out, which I really cannot afford to do.

08-07-2015, 11:14 AM   #35
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To do this so you can drain into the larger tank faster but still drain into the house tank without changing anything on the house, you can do it this way.


Small tank -->1-1/2 in pipe nipple (or what the actual size is) --> valve --> quick disconnect (1st half) --> quick disconnect

( 2ed half) -->hose barb --> 1-1/2 inch (or whichever size you need) clear tubing ---> Fill large tank.


For the house hook up; Use Small tank already set up as above --> quick disconnect ( 2ed half) --> step down reducer


1-1/2 inch to 1 inch --> step down reducer 1 inch to 1/2 inch --> 1/2 inch pipe nipple --> garden house --> fill house tank.


To set it up this way, instead of going to someplace like Home Depot or what you have around you, you will need to go to some place like Granger.com to get the disconnects. I don't think local hardware stores will have the quick disconnects because that is more industrial supply.
08-07-2015, 11:39 AM   #36
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I'm sorry, this is over my head; I can't picture what you mean. Looking at what I have, (see pictures in the beginning of thread), what would I have to remove/add with the existing setup on the valve?
08-07-2015, 12:00 PM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by csa Quote
Tom, I would still need a valve with a regular hose connector to empty the water into the house storage tank. I use this, installed on the outside of the house, with pvc pipe that goes directly into the tank in the house.
Ah, yes, if that's the size of the inlet into the tank, then all would be for naught (old English for "it ain't gonna work"). However, if you are using anything smaller than 3/4" or 5/8" inside diameter hose, you could gain by increasing the hose to one of those sizes. How long is the hose you are using?

08-07-2015, 12:06 PM   #38
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Tom, for the house, I use a 50' hose. For the outside tank the hose connected to the pvc pipe is only about4-6'. If I remember correctly, the hose is 5/8" inside diameter.

The only reason I brought this up, is it's not very comfortable standing up on the road for half an hour in the heat. I have to stay there, in case someone wants by, pulling a trailer, etc., and cannot get by the suburban.
08-07-2015, 12:37 PM   #39
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Looking at your second picture, with the set up I described, you will remove every thing from the tank. You will replace everything with larger parts. I will go with the assumption that you have a 1-1/2 inch threaded outlet on the small tank that you will be working on. (It could be 2 inch though, you will need to measure).


I will put links to everything in the order I described. I will use Home Depot and McMaster Carr for links and descriptions.


pipe nipple McMaster-Carr


ball valve McMaster-Carr or McMaster-Carr


quick disconnect (hose coupling) 1st half McMaster-Carr


quick disconnect (hose coupling) 2ed half McMaster-Carr


hose barb---you can get the quick disconnect 2ed half with the hose barb as the way to attach built in.


tubing Watts 1-1/2 in. I.D. x 150 ft. PVC Flat Discharge Hose-RCDR - The Home Depot


I would also put a fitting of some type on the end of the hose where you put it in to fill the large tank.


for the house hook up


Quick disconnect (hose coupling) 2ed half---see link above


Step down reducer (low pressure bushing) 1-1/2 inch to 1/2 inch McMaster-Carr


1/2 inch pipe nipple ---See link above.


I used manly McMaster Carr for links because I found out Home Depot does not carry 1-1/2 pipe.


Also, PVC pipe can be used instead of Galvanized Iron pipe if you would want to go in that direction. That would be a choice you would need to make.
08-07-2015, 12:40 PM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by csa Quote
is it's not very comfortable standing up on the road for half an hour in the heat.
Okay, that's a different problem altogether. You don't need different hoses, different spigots, or a pump. You just need to take a couple of cold beers with you.
08-07-2015, 12:44 PM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by Parallax Quote
Okay, that's a different problem altogether. You don't need different hoses, different spigots, or a pump. You just need to take a couple of cold beers with you.

08-07-2015, 12:52 PM   #42
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I didn't think about this until a couple of minutes ago, also check your local farm supply stores they should have the things like the hose couplers and the pipe fittings and valve.
08-07-2015, 12:54 PM   #43
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There's a Murdoch's here. However, I would still have to hire someone to do this, as it's beyond my "skills".
08-07-2015, 01:25 PM   #44
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You won't be standing in the heat for too long now........
08-07-2015, 01:27 PM   #45
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No; but it's sure not nice when I haul 2-3 loads at a time. That's 1-1/2 hours standing in the heat, and against that hillside it definitely gets very hot.
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