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02-02-2016, 08:16 PM   #16
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I'll agree with Tom. You likely have a leak somewhere. I would get underneath and look it over real good for wet spots on the brake lines. Could be a wheel cylinder or caliper leaking too. Brake lines and hoses aren't terribly expensive but they can be a time consuming pain in the *** so having a garage do the repairs can add up to big $$$$$ on the labor. I just did the brake lines running to the rear of my daughters CRV. A shop gave her an $1100 estimate. I fixed it for her. Cost of parts was around $50 for lines and the fittings and if you don't have a double flaring tool, you'll need to buy one. After 19 years, I'll bet the lines are rusted and usually they tend to rust through at one of the clamps holding it in place.

02-03-2016, 03:55 PM   #17
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Rupert, let us know what the problem was, once you've had time to get it assessed. Thanks!
02-03-2016, 11:27 PM   #18
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Could be air or water in the lines, or boiled brake fluid if a pad's dragging too much or suchlike. Things they'll look for.

Also could be an issue with your brake booster/check valves/vacuum lines: I've caused similar symptoms while hunting for vacuum leaks and ending up creating one there. (The brake booster's that tanklike thing behind the master cylinder, that all wants to be airtight, so even just the seal around the check valve is important and they can kind of bake being so close to hot hoods and stuff in the South. You can generally get the seals in those 'Help!' packages at your local auto parts place, or they'lll have the real thing there. (Generally along with a cheaper actual valve I might refrain from trying if just the seal works. ) You might give it a try to make it safer to drive to have it serviced and looked over: if it works your brakes should feel normal in the driveway. Just cause it could save a tow, it's potentially low-hanging fruit.
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