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10-11-2017, 06:57 AM - 1 Like   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by swanlefitte Quote
I have an interchangeable drill. What is the best bit? I like my standard/phillips tip alot but my 1/8th inch drill bit is nice. The 1/16th ones are so eloquent but they break so easy.
Anyway It is an interchangeable drill but i want only one bit to use on it so which should i use. Mind you i have over 100 bits for it.
The best drill bit is the one in your drill.

If it's so heavy you leave it home all the time it's useless.

10-11-2017, 07:05 AM - 2 Likes   #32
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Craftsman used to sell good tools. Craftsman is doomed. DOOMED!

What type of drilling do you do? Are you framing, making furniture, or something else? Show us some samples of your work so we can make recommendations.

Your bit doesn't matter because your drilling technique sucks. Learn how to use your current bits, noob!
10-11-2017, 09:08 AM   #33
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Russell Jennings pattern augers because Irwin pattern ones are ugly. Millers Falls #31 or a Stanley 965. Main thing is keeping the rust off the lead screws.
10-11-2017, 11:07 AM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by Andy123 Quote
Iím trying to drill out a broken bolt. I read some where that it is better to use reverse bits for that. I bought some but my old corded drill only drills right (clockwise) and the reverse bits donít seem to work. Has any one had this problem? BTW I thought about drilling from the bottom but canít get the drill in there. I know you recommend cordless but I donít have the cash. The only models near my price range are from Horable Freight and they have very mixed reviews. What Iíd really like is to be able to make my current equipment work.
Thanks. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Andy
Rewire the drill so it turns counter clockwise.

10-11-2017, 11:15 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by swanlefitte Quote
I have several settings on my drill torque. Is that what 1/2" vs 3/8ths means?
1/2" or 3/8" are the chuck sizes.

Has little, if anything to do with the torque. Torque is a function of the power the drill motor is capable of.
10-11-2017, 12:08 PM - 7 Likes   #36
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The iDrill is far and away the best drill I've ever used. The hardware plugs into the headphone jack, you have complete control over the RPM with the included app, you always have it with you, and yes, it's cordless. Newer phones will have more features (portrait bits, etc.), but I'm not sure it's compatible with the latest headphone-jackless models. An android version is coming afaik. The only danger is pocket drilling - be sure to remove the bit when you stow it or you may be in for some pain.

10-11-2017, 12:17 PM - 3 Likes   #37
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I know this is supposed to be a sarcastic thread, but I feel the need to weigh in on drills, and drilling.

You see, I drill holes for a living.

In aviation manufacturing drilling is what it is all about. Selecting the correct drill motor, and the correct drill are critical for perfect hole quality. A good hole ensures that the airplane will carry people and goods safely for the 20 to 30 year designed lifespan of the aircraft.

I drill holes using a variety of drill motors (all air powered), and a variety of drill bits designed for the various stack ups of materials.

Since airplanes are made of exotic materials, i.e. aluminum, titanium, stainless steel and CRES (a type of steel alloy), fiberglass and carbon fiber, each drilling operation requires a specific drill bit, and a drill motor designed to perform the operation.

There are cobalt drills, high carbon drills, double margin drills, single margin drills, unicorn bits, dreamer bits, core drills, reamers, gunbarrel drills, the list goes on. There are drill bits only 1/4" long, and drill bits that are nearly 2 feet in length.

There are many different types of drill motors too. High speed and low speed. Ordinary drill motors most of you would recognize as a drill, and drill motors that have elaborate gear driven mechanisms that allow drilling offset from the axis of the drill, even around corners. There are devices that connect to the drill motor to reach into areas that otherwise cannot be accessed, called a zephyr, that do a great job of pinching fingers. Most of the hand held drills have quick change chucks that only take bits with a special end that matches the chuck, but we do have some straight shank drill bits that require an ordinary drill chuck and key (3/8" and 1/2").

There are self feeding drills that mount into tooling that holds them over the area to be drilled. The are called "quacks" for the name of the company that made the first ones, Quackenbush, but there are also Seti Tech versions. Kind of like a drill press, only portable. They connect to the shop air and a pump that feeds lubricant through holes in the drill bits which not only lubricates the drilling operation, but cools the cutting end of the drill bit. Drilling with quacks makes holes up to around 2", through stack ups of materials several inches thick.

The latest thing is robotic drilling. Parts are clamped up in a jig fixture, and then the robots drill most of the holes. What the robots can't do, humans finish.

For the last 3 years I have been drilling almost entirely by hand, working the upper trailing edge of the 777 wing, but recently I was moved into the 777 spar shop, working a section of the rear spar. I drill a few holes by hand, and then index a bunch of parts with locating jigs, set up the quack plates and run quacks and seti techs for a few hours. Messy work, with lubricant and metal chips everywhere, coveralls are a must. But a fun way to spend the day, I like to think of it as controlled destruction. After the drill up is done, I clean up the mess, debur and fillet relieve the holes and call it a day. The next day I install the parts I drilled the day before.

The third day I repeat the process on the other wing spar (if I drilled and installed the right spar first then the left spar is next, then after that, I go back to another right spar.


Some drill images from the innerwebs:

An Ingersoll Rand 6,000 rpm hand drill with quick change chuck and single margin drill bits. A drill motor like this runs about $1,000 US.





One type of quack drill with integral lubrication reservoir. Cost: several thousand dollars.





A quack drill. (not actually a Quackenbush, but similar)




A quack lube pump.
10-11-2017, 01:05 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by c.a.m Quote
I think the thread is getting off topic.

For the OP, I'd recommend a 3-bit travel kit, which would serve you well at home and also at the job site. I'd say a 3/32" titanium, a 1/4" high-speed steel for general purpose, and a 3/4" or even 1" spade. I know guys who build entire houses with that kit, and make decent money.

If you're an enthusiast driller, maybe add a fourth bit to fill in between the 1/4 and 3/4.

If you're really intent on only one bit, get the best you can afford. Stay away from old, vintage bits - they're not nearly as sharp as the modern ones with the special hardened coatings.

Also, try to avoid the SDM bits (Soft Drill Machined) - I've heard they have a high breakage rate (but the manufacturer isn't admitting that it's a design issue).
I heard Tim Allen will do a CLA on those old vintage bits and make them work like new.

Then you can drill in style!

10-11-2017, 01:06 PM - 1 Like   #39
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@Racer, sarcasm aside, thanks for your interesting post. Craftsmen like you ensure I get to my far-away destination safely.

Now, what DO you think of the iDrill? JK.

Craig
10-11-2017, 01:14 PM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by c.a.m Quote
@Racer, sarcasm aside, thanks for your interesting post. Craftsmen like you ensure I get to my far-away destination safely.
Youíre welcome.

Itís all about the quality of the holes.


QuoteOriginally posted by c.a.m Quote
Now, what DO you think of the iDrill? JK.

Craig
I am always skeptical of anything iPhone.

But it does intrigue me.
10-11-2017, 02:14 PM - 1 Like   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by Racer X 69 Quote
Rewire the drill so it turns counter clockwise.
Well I cut off the little lower center thing on the plug. Then twisted the plug so it reverse inthe outlet. But I canít tell if it is working as I get a funny tingling (rather sharp) when I touch the metal drill case. Is that normal? Will duck tape help.

You folks at this are so much more helpful then those snobby drilling site. Thanks
Andy
10-11-2017, 02:32 PM - 2 Likes   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by Andy123 Quote
Well I cut off the little lower center thing on the plug. Then twisted the plug so it reverse inthe outlet. But I canít tell if it is working as I get a funny tingling (rather sharp) when I touch the metal drill case. Is that normal?
Not QUITE!

PS: Shall we send flowers to your funeral, or would you prefer a donation to your favourite charity?
10-11-2017, 02:41 PM - 1 Like   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by Andy123 Quote
Well I cut off the little lower center thing on the plug. Then twisted the plug so it reverse inthe outlet. But I canít tell if it is working as I get a funny tingling (rather sharp) when I touch the metal drill case. Is that normal? Will duck tape help.

You folks at this are so much more helpful then those snobby drilling site. Thanks
Andy
diy is something that should be well considered before execution or in your case electrocution

as you may have noticed there is a kind of culture war in the world of drilling
the newer devices eschew traditional metal bodies...much safer ultimately
so complaints of plasticky feel notwithstanding...they are for your own good
10-11-2017, 02:57 PM - 7 Likes   #44
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10-11-2017, 03:05 PM - 1 Like   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by DeadJohn Quote
Craftsman used to sell good tools. Craftsman is doomed. DOOMED!

Sears Canada anyways, sad to say.

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=...5MvdUePjeefUX7

To the OP, I think it might be worthwhile for you to take a woodworking class.
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