Originally posted by Racer X 69 1/2" or 3/8" are the chuck sizes.
Has little, if anything to do with the torque. Torque is a function of the power the drill motor is capable of.
Back in the good old days (1970s and early 1980s) when numbers mattered, the quality of hi-fi gear was measured by RMS watts and Peak watts and the quality of the sound was irrelevant. So it was with drills, and that lead to the question "is it a genuine 1/2" drill or is it a 3/8" drill with a 1/2" chuck.
---------- Post added 14-10-17 at 18:59 ----------
Originally posted by Racer X 69 I know this is supposed to be a sarcastic thread, but I feel the need to weigh in on drills, and drilling.
You see, I drill holes for a living.
Very interesting. Thanks for the info.
I've never needed a specialised drill like you've described, but I have needed to drill accurate holes using a hand-held drill. Most of the holes were 3/16" or 1/4" into aluminium masts or booms for attaching fittings with monel pop-rivets. The difficult bit comes when you need to drill out monel pop-rivets to replace a fitting. If your drill bit is not very sharp and hard, you'll end up with an enlarged hole in the mast, etc. Which is not good. Your average hardware store high-speed steel drill bit would not drill through a monel rivet, even if you took it easy (no more than one second of drilling followed by 30 seconds of down-time waiting for the drill bit to cool down). You could go through 3 or 4 bits to drill out one rivet. And you'd end up with an enlarged hole.
The very best drill bits I've ever had were given to me by a friend who worked for a bearings company. They were designed to drill into the rollers of bearings for ore crushers. The rollers were around 15cm (6") diameter and 45cm (18") length. They were made of very, very hard steel.
I made a lot of clean holes with those drill bits.