Originally posted by vievetrick Wow do I sound like a whinner or what? (don't answer that
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I typed that this morning and just feeling sorry for myself and boy it sounded like it. I will be working on the pictures tonight and wanted to check in.
Clicker - I will keep everyone posted and am sure I have some good ones
I have not turned down $ yet. I will wait for thier responce first.
MrRiley - Thanks for the kind words - I tried for a better part of the later part of the evening shooting manual. Had a decent amount of keepers that way. I honestly have never had that much trouble with my 16-45. live and learn. I was so frustrated with the focusing I never switched the flash to manual (insert slap head with hand)
Wheatfields - The Truth hurts!!!!! I agree. I have done this a couple of times but buy no means a Wedding Photographer. They knew it I knew it, I hope in the end all will be well. I have always said you guys (wedding pros) are under paid
Dkittle - thanks
K100d - I did
that is the sad part. I should have prepared more
ARPE - That was the best laugh I had all day. You talked me into staying here.
The biggie with event photography is to know your equipment. Know how to get it back to a default setting in as few dial whirlies as possible if a setting does go astray. Know the limits of the equipment. Don't presume that because it focuses OK in the good light at the rehearsal that the same will be true during the ceremony when they have turned off the overheads.
Dump the zoom lenses and get a couple of good, FAST, prime lenses. Zooms aren't worth the supposed convenience compared to what they do to things like AF, shutter speed ease of screen visibility and picture quality. They aren't as good as primes, even if they are close, and this can make a huge difference when the venue is something other than an MTF test bench.
A 50mm f/1.4 lens is a much better lens for taking pictures with than a 16-45mm f/4 lens at the long end. The screen is 8x brighter, the AF has 8x more light to work with because of the maximum aperture, and this doesn't change, no matter which f stop you are shooting at.
If you are using a "PRO ZOOM" (an oxymoron if I ever heard one), you still have 4x more light to the AF and screen.
Fast lenses let you get pictures, zoom lenses let you zoom. I've used a zoom lens exactly 3 times for wedding work in my entire career, and each time I considered it to be a mistake after reviewing the day and the pictures I brought home.
Did I mention that you should be able to run your equipment with no conscious effort? If you have to think about which button to push, or which dial to turn, you either need to practice that adjustment until it is automatic, or better still, find a way to end run around making the adjustment in the first place.
I don't trust modern flash equipment to do the job for me. Shoe-mount flash light is a nightmare looking for a child to terrify. The only good thing about it is that it is there. Even then, it should be elsewhere.
Like farther away from the lens.
And on the vertical axis rather than the horizontal axis. 95% of my weddings are shot vertical. I want my flash head above the lens, not beside it, which is where a shoe mount flash ends up being most of the time.
I don't like the flip flash gizmos that let you orient the flash either top or side. They are cumbersome and clunky, and they are another mechanism to jam or freeze or break when the maid of honor is approaching, and the bride is close in pursuit.
Because it doesn't matter how often you tell them to space themselves out at the rehearsal, they end up being a herd of cattle by the time they get to the front of the church.
A shoe mount flash is something that is easily sheared off the camera, or accessory bracket, they are big, they knock the camera off balance, the light is ugly, and they generally suck AA cells flat far too quickly, especially now that they are small computers, and pulse the flash multiple times before taking the picture.
The last may seem like a small thing, but when I push the button, I want the camera to take the d@mned picture, not light paint the subject while it figures out if it really wants to take a picture now or in a while.
Far better off to use a hammerhead style autoflash, such as an old Metz 45 or 60, or the Pentax AF400.
The flash is probably more accurate than the TTL in the camera, and the only thing to go wrong is the PC cord, several of which can easily be carried in a pocket.
They don't talk to the camera, and they don't give the camera a reason to argue about when to take the picture.
I was greatly happy when I found that they had restored the PC socket on the K20. I hope further improvements to the camera line do not remove this very important feature.
I prefer to use the camera in manual exposure mode, and I will put electrical tape over the control wheels to keep the stupid things from getting moved. Control wheels move far to easily, and are deliberately placed where they can be accidentally moved.
The marketing people call this ergonomics.
They should be forced to eat their own spleens, and then strangled with their intestines.
That may sound harsh, but I have to continuously monitor my camera settings when shooting mobile for this reason, which means I can't trust my camera to do what it is supposed to do, which is be a picture taking machine.
Hence the electrical tape over the controls.
I've gone back to manual focus lenses. AF doesn't cut it for me. The camera left to it's own devices has an astonishing ability to focus on the wrong thing, or not focus on anything at all.
I'll do it myself, thank you, and then when I push the button, I don't have to wait for the camera to decide if it is going to use the correct focus point, or for me to decide it is using the wrong one and change things.
I push the button, the camera takes the picture, and the flash fires at the right time.
When I can depend on the technology to do that for me, I'll embrace it.
If you got this far, I should give you a prize.