Update and question on my 1996 Ford Ranger XLT

jct us101 · 03-09-2010, 01:33 AM

I know very little about cars, so I'm not sure what you're asking me to empty. Anything it's near or anything it is labeled?

jct us101 · 03-09-2010, 02:15 AM

The first time I read that I only glanced over it, I just re-read the whole thing again and I'm afraid I still don't entirely understand what you want me to do. I don't know how to crack open what you asked me to and I checked the oil (by the dipstick) today and it was 3/4 full, and hasn't lost any since I got it back. But I'm sorry, I'm just very dumb with cars and I really have no idea what you are asking me to do so a little more help would be really appreciated.

little laker · 03-09-2010, 02:26 AM

Basically check the dipsticks. First start with the motor oil, before starting the truck.
Look for any foam on it, and also check to make sure that it isn't overfilled. There should be 2 marks on it, the oil should be somewhere between them.
If there isn't any foam on that dipstick, and the oil isn't overfilled there's a good chance that the leak isn't going into the engine oil.

Next fire up the truck. It's a good time to check that upper rad hose, like I suggested

Just squeeze it. If it was soft before, and hard now the problems related to an internal exhaust leak into your coolant system.

Next comes the Automatic Transmission. Your owners manual will tell you something like the engine must be running, and the transmission fluid must be warm. In this case don't worry about it being warm, that isn't really all that critical at this time

not to mention it isn't fun working over a hot engine.
Carefully reach over and pull the transmission dipstick. This is often tough to reach.
Again, look for any foam on it. Plus make sure that it isn't too full. The marks on it are a little different than your engine oil, so you may have to look at your owners manual for reference.
If you see the foam on it, or that it's too full there's a goods chance that the rad is leaking into the coolers lines.

It will honestly take you less than 10 minutes to perform those 3 tests, and it might reveal a problem.

A problem at this stage may not be all that expensive, or tough to fix.... or at least patch together for now.
Whereas hoping for the best, and letting something go may be an expensive venture

little laker · 03-09-2010, 02:34 AM

Originally posted by jct us101

The first time I read that I only glanced over it, I just re-read the whole thing again and I'm afraid I still don't entirely understand what you want me to do. I don't know how to crack open what you asked me to and I checked the oil (by the dipstick) today and it was 3/4 full, and hasn't lost any since I got it back. But I'm sorry, I'm just very dumb with cars and I really have no idea what you are asking me to do so a little more help would be really appreciated.

Sorry, you must have posted this while I was typing out my response.

I'm a firm believer that we should all know how to check our engine oil, like you did.... change a tire.... and fuel up, before we get our drivers licenses

As long as you know those 3 items than I wouldn't call you dumb with cars.
Although what I've listed in the above posts is simple there's no reason for most people to ever know it.

It sounds like there's a good chance that you don't have any coolant seeping into the engine oil. This is a good thing.

It still hasn't ruled out the rest of my above posts

cardinal43 · 03-09-2010, 08:33 AM

LittleLaker has given you some pretty good information, as have others.

What GoremanX was telling you to "crack open" is your oil pan. You obviously have to do this from under the truck. When you look at the oil pan, you will see a bolt toward the bottom of one side. This is where you (or whoever does it) drains the old oil when it is being changed. As GoremanX stated, the coolant will find its way to the bottom of the oil pan, and you will see some of it leak out when you open the drain bolt. Be warned, it will get messy when you crack it open, so have something down to catch what come out, and keep in mind, DON'T LET EVERYTHING DRAIN OUT. You just want to crack it open enough to see what will come out.

Regarding the greenish color in the radiator, that isn't unusual at all as most anti-freeze is either greenish or reddish in color. You really need to have some type of coolant in there at all times as the coolant usually has some form of "cleaner" (if I remember correctly) to help keep the inside of the radiator clean.

I haven't fooled with this stuff much at all in the last 10-15 years as I don't have any place to change it. It is easier, and sometimes cheaper in the long run, to have it done. Good luck in getting it diagnosed and repaired.

reeftool · 03-09-2010, 09:00 AM

A leaking head gasket or a cracked head may not be leaking enough to put visible water into the oil. You should probably notice some white smoke and an anti freeze smell from your exhaust on occasion. It probably comes and goes as the gasket or crack seals depending on engine temperature. You would most likely notice this as the engine warms up to it's maximum temp and pressure, just before the thermostat opens and then may seal. You could also have an external leak doing the same thing, with the anti freeze leaking on the road where you don't see it. Also small leaks can drip on the exhaust pipe and evaporate, never leaving a puddle. I would suggest taking your truck somewhere other than Pep Boys. These shops are mostly for oil changes and tires, not engine repairs. Don't just keep putting fresh anti freeze in and running it. An internal leak in the head or manifold will cause serious damage. It will burn the valves and can destroy pistons and if getting into the lower end, anti freeze will destroy bearings in a very short time.

GoremanX · 03-09-2010, 12:13 PM

Honestly, if someone is this un-knowledgeable about motor vehicles, he/she should not be messing with cooling system diagnosis. This isn't meant as an insult in any way, some of us just don't know about certain things and should leave these things to professionals. When someone doesn't know where the oil drain plug is, it's time to turn to those professionals.

Since you drive a 1996 Ford baby pickup, I assume you're not terribly rich and can't afford expensive repairs. In that case, it's cheaper and safer to have it checked out by a professional mechanic before the engine seizes. Sure, it'll cost a bit of money up front, but that could be money saved in the long run. Ask around in your area and try to find a mechanic who's honest and easy to deal with. Especially ask women who've had car troubles. They're surprisingly knowledgeable when it comes to decent mechanics. I'm not sure why that is... but it is.

jct us101 · 03-09-2010, 01:11 PM

Well the main problem is that I just spent all the money I could on it, to get the torque converter replaced and get my check engine light taken off. I checekd the oil this morning, looked the same as it has for the last 2 years that I've had it. Hasn't gone down at all. I checked both coolant sources, they were both still entirely full, but yesterday I just drove to school and back, only about 2 miles in total so I don't know if that helps anything but the engine was probably not ever fully warmed up. The first day I got it back, I had to put almost 2 water bottles of water in it (I don't have coolant, but from now on will probably use it), the next time I drove twice as far and only had to put a half of one in it, and today I didn't have to put any in it. Once again I'm ignorant about all of this so I don't know if that means anything or can help the diagnosis but I figured I would mention it.

GoremanX · 03-09-2010, 01:22 PM

Sounds to me like you were just filling up the air pockets. This would appear like the coolant was dropping, when in fact it isn't.

I'm not sure if this applies to Ford V6's, but on many engines, removing the transmission leads to a bunch of coolant loss. Some of the bolts for things that need to be removed go right into water passages, and the coolant leaks out while the transmission is removed. It doesn't all come out, but sometimes a lot of it can. So most likely when your torque converter was changed, the shop doing the work either didn't bother to fill the coolant back up, or they didn't do it properly. Since then, you've just been refilling what was missing (and the engine was doing it too by emptying the overflow bottle).

Honestly, if they didn't find any leaks at Pep Boys, it's hard to imagine any leaks being there. Even a leak into the engine block itself would show up through the PCV valve. If your exhaust isn't spewing white smoke, and your oil is fine, and the truck drives properly, then there doesn't appear to be anything wrong other than missing coolant which you've now replaced.

P.S. check the coolant "strength" and make sure it's a 50/50 mix. Even if you live in California, you want the anti-corrosion properties of anti-freeze in there, especially on such an old engine.

jct us101 · 03-09-2010, 01:31 PM

If that is it then I'm going to feel really dumb.

jct us101 · 03-09-2010, 01:34 PM

And Pep Boys might not realize that?

jct us101 · 03-09-2010, 01:36 PM

They told me that the truck passed the block test, and that there was no external leaking anywhere and they did the pressure test twice but they said there was still some pressure loss in the radiator so does that change anything?

GoremanX · 03-09-2010, 01:37 PM

Originally posted by jct us101

And Pep Boys might not realize that?

nope, no way to tell. Filling up coolant is tricky on some vehicles. If you don't follow the manufacturer's procedure, you can end up with a bunch of trapped air inside the engine. This would also cause the temperature gauge to fluctuate wildly at times. Eventually, the trapped air gets filled with coolant (over many miles of driving) and the apparent coolant level in the radiator and/or overflow bottle changes.

edit: and at that point, adding more coolant usually solves the problem

jct us101 · 03-09-2010, 01:38 PM

Yes, the new temperature gauge constantly has been fluxuating and not going up all the way.

GoremanX · 03-09-2010, 01:42 PM

I assume you did as little laker suggested and also checked the transmission fluid? If so, and it appeared fine (fish-smelling red stuff at the right level on the dip stick), then take the truck for a 30-mile drive and check the coolant level every 10 miles or so. If the coolant drop slows down (or stops altogether), then there's probably nothing wrong.

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03-09-2010, 01:33 AM	#16
jct us101 Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Rohnert Park, CA Posts: 3,793 Original Poster	I know very little about cars, so I'm not sure what you're asking me to empty. Anything it's near or anything it is labeled?

03-09-2010, 02:15 AM	#17
jct us101 Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Rohnert Park, CA Posts: 3,793 Original Poster	The first time I read that I only glanced over it, I just re-read the whole thing again and I'm afraid I still don't entirely understand what you want me to do. I don't know how to crack open what you asked me to and I checked the oil (by the dipstick) today and it was 3/4 full, and hasn't lost any since I got it back. But I'm sorry, I'm just very dumb with cars and I really have no idea what you are asking me to do so a little more help would be really appreciated.

03-09-2010, 02:26 AM	#18
little laker Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Photos: Gallery Posts: 5,697	Basically check the dipsticks. First start with the motor oil, before starting the truck. Look for any foam on it, and also check to make sure that it isn't overfilled. There should be 2 marks on it, the oil should be somewhere between them. If there isn't any foam on that dipstick, and the oil isn't overfilled there's a good chance that the leak isn't going into the engine oil. Next fire up the truck. It's a good time to check that upper rad hose, like I suggested Just squeeze it. If it was soft before, and hard now the problems related to an internal exhaust leak into your coolant system. Next comes the Automatic Transmission. Your owners manual will tell you something like the engine must be running, and the transmission fluid must be warm. In this case don't worry about it being warm, that isn't really all that critical at this time not to mention it isn't fun working over a hot engine. Carefully reach over and pull the transmission dipstick. This is often tough to reach. Again, look for any foam on it. Plus make sure that it isn't too full. The marks on it are a little different than your engine oil, so you may have to look at your owners manual for reference. If you see the foam on it, or that it's too full there's a goods chance that the rad is leaking into the coolers lines. It will honestly take you less than 10 minutes to perform those 3 tests, and it might reveal a problem. A problem at this stage may not be all that expensive, or tough to fix.... or at least patch together for now. Whereas hoping for the best, and letting something go may be an expensive venture

03-09-2010, 02:34 AM	#19
little laker Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Photos: Gallery Posts: 5,697	Originally posted by jct us101 The first time I read that I only glanced over it, I just re-read the whole thing again and I'm afraid I still don't entirely understand what you want me to do. I don't know how to crack open what you asked me to and I checked the oil (by the dipstick) today and it was 3/4 full, and hasn't lost any since I got it back. But I'm sorry, I'm just very dumb with cars and I really have no idea what you are asking me to do so a little more help would be really appreciated. Sorry, you must have posted this while I was typing out my response. I'm a firm believer that we should all know how to check our engine oil, like you did.... change a tire.... and fuel up, before we get our drivers licenses As long as you know those 3 items than I wouldn't call you dumb with cars. Although what I've listed in the above posts is simple there's no reason for most people to ever know it. It sounds like there's a good chance that you don't have any coolant seeping into the engine oil. This is a good thing. It still hasn't ruled out the rest of my above posts

03-09-2010, 08:33 AM	#20
cardinal43 Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Virginia Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,412	LittleLaker has given you some pretty good information, as have others. What GoremanX was telling you to "crack open" is your oil pan. You obviously have to do this from under the truck. When you look at the oil pan, you will see a bolt toward the bottom of one side. This is where you (or whoever does it) drains the old oil when it is being changed. As GoremanX stated, the coolant will find its way to the bottom of the oil pan, and you will see some of it leak out when you open the drain bolt. Be warned, it will get messy when you crack it open, so have something down to catch what come out, and keep in mind, DON'T LET EVERYTHING DRAIN OUT. You just want to crack it open enough to see what will come out. Regarding the greenish color in the radiator, that isn't unusual at all as most anti-freeze is either greenish or reddish in color. You really need to have some type of coolant in there at all times as the coolant usually has some form of "cleaner" (if I remember correctly) to help keep the inside of the radiator clean. I haven't fooled with this stuff much at all in the last 10-15 years as I don't have any place to change it. It is easier, and sometimes cheaper in the long run, to have it done. Good luck in getting it diagnosed and repaired.

03-09-2010, 09:00 AM	#21
reeftool Pentaxian Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Upstate New York Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 9,555	A leaking head gasket or a cracked head may not be leaking enough to put visible water into the oil. You should probably notice some white smoke and an anti freeze smell from your exhaust on occasion. It probably comes and goes as the gasket or crack seals depending on engine temperature. You would most likely notice this as the engine warms up to it's maximum temp and pressure, just before the thermostat opens and then may seal. You could also have an external leak doing the same thing, with the anti freeze leaking on the road where you don't see it. Also small leaks can drip on the exhaust pipe and evaporate, never leaving a puddle. I would suggest taking your truck somewhere other than Pep Boys. These shops are mostly for oil changes and tires, not engine repairs. Don't just keep putting fresh anti freeze in and running it. An internal leak in the head or manifold will cause serious damage. It will burn the valves and can destroy pistons and if getting into the lower end, anti freeze will destroy bearings in a very short time.

03-09-2010, 12:13 PM	#22
GoremanX Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Georgia, VT Photos: Albums Posts: 1,657	Honestly, if someone is this un-knowledgeable about motor vehicles, he/she should not be messing with cooling system diagnosis. This isn't meant as an insult in any way, some of us just don't know about certain things and should leave these things to professionals. When someone doesn't know where the oil drain plug is, it's time to turn to those professionals. Since you drive a 1996 Ford baby pickup, I assume you're not terribly rich and can't afford expensive repairs. In that case, it's cheaper and safer to have it checked out by a professional mechanic before the engine seizes. Sure, it'll cost a bit of money up front, but that could be money saved in the long run. Ask around in your area and try to find a mechanic who's honest and easy to deal with. Especially ask women who've had car troubles. They're surprisingly knowledgeable when it comes to decent mechanics. I'm not sure why that is... but it is.

03-09-2010, 01:11 PM	#23
jct us101 Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Rohnert Park, CA Posts: 3,793 Original Poster	Well the main problem is that I just spent all the money I could on it, to get the torque converter replaced and get my check engine light taken off. I checekd the oil this morning, looked the same as it has for the last 2 years that I've had it. Hasn't gone down at all. I checked both coolant sources, they were both still entirely full, but yesterday I just drove to school and back, only about 2 miles in total so I don't know if that helps anything but the engine was probably not ever fully warmed up. The first day I got it back, I had to put almost 2 water bottles of water in it (I don't have coolant, but from now on will probably use it), the next time I drove twice as far and only had to put a half of one in it, and today I didn't have to put any in it. Once again I'm ignorant about all of this so I don't know if that means anything or can help the diagnosis but I figured I would mention it.

03-09-2010, 01:22 PM	#24
GoremanX Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Georgia, VT Photos: Albums Posts: 1,657	Sounds to me like you were just filling up the air pockets. This would appear like the coolant was dropping, when in fact it isn't. I'm not sure if this applies to Ford V6's, but on many engines, removing the transmission leads to a bunch of coolant loss. Some of the bolts for things that need to be removed go right into water passages, and the coolant leaks out while the transmission is removed. It doesn't all come out, but sometimes a lot of it can. So most likely when your torque converter was changed, the shop doing the work either didn't bother to fill the coolant back up, or they didn't do it properly. Since then, you've just been refilling what was missing (and the engine was doing it too by emptying the overflow bottle). Honestly, if they didn't find any leaks at Pep Boys, it's hard to imagine any leaks being there. Even a leak into the engine block itself would show up through the PCV valve. If your exhaust isn't spewing white smoke, and your oil is fine, and the truck drives properly, then there doesn't appear to be anything wrong other than missing coolant which you've now replaced. P.S. check the coolant "strength" and make sure it's a 50/50 mix. Even if you live in California, you want the anti-corrosion properties of anti-freeze in there, especially on such an old engine.

03-09-2010, 01:31 PM	#25
jct us101 Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Rohnert Park, CA Posts: 3,793 Original Poster	If that is it then I'm going to feel really dumb.

03-09-2010, 01:34 PM	#26
jct us101 Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Rohnert Park, CA Posts: 3,793 Original Poster	And Pep Boys might not realize that?

03-09-2010, 01:36 PM	#27
jct us101 Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Rohnert Park, CA Posts: 3,793 Original Poster	They told me that the truck passed the block test, and that there was no external leaking anywhere and they did the pressure test twice but they said there was still some pressure loss in the radiator so does that change anything?

03-09-2010, 01:37 PM	#28
GoremanX Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Georgia, VT Photos: Albums Posts: 1,657	Originally posted by jct us101 And Pep Boys might not realize that? nope, no way to tell. Filling up coolant is tricky on some vehicles. If you don't follow the manufacturer's procedure, you can end up with a bunch of trapped air inside the engine. This would also cause the temperature gauge to fluctuate wildly at times. Eventually, the trapped air gets filled with coolant (over many miles of driving) and the apparent coolant level in the radiator and/or overflow bottle changes. edit: and at that point, adding more coolant usually solves the problem

03-09-2010, 01:38 PM	#29
jct us101 Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Rohnert Park, CA Posts: 3,793 Original Poster	Yes, the new temperature gauge constantly has been fluxuating and not going up all the way.

03-09-2010, 01:42 PM	#30
GoremanX Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Georgia, VT Photos: Albums Posts: 1,657	I assume you did as little laker suggested and also checked the transmission fluid? If so, and it appeared fine (fish-smelling red stuff at the right level on the dip stick), then take the truck for a 30-mile drive and check the coolant level every 10 miles or so. If the coolant drop slows down (or stops altogether), then there's probably nothing wrong.