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07-24-2017, 03:02 PM   #10111
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
Here's the thread that specifies the source of the replacement brass gear:


https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/8-pentax-film-slr-discussion/39450-mz5n-mirror-blocked-service-manual.html


I do not know if it is still available.
Thank you! I'll research it

07-24-2017, 11:20 PM   #10112
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
The MZ-M focusing screen can be installed in an AF body to facilitate use of manual focus lenses.
Or you can buy that brass gear and be the first on Pentax Forums to resurrect an MZ/ZX body...

Chris
I bought some of the brass gears and made an attempt at changing the one in my MZ-5N. In summary - it's incredibly difficult to do and I wasn't able to put the camera back together again afterwards, so it's junk. I wouldn't recommend wasting the money on the gears or the time on the repair.
07-25-2017, 08:31 AM - 2 Likes   #10113
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
Thank you! I'll research it
So yours was exactly like mine... tried to use it, and it breaks. Low quality plastic gets brittle...

I saw that it was possible to fix it, but instead I found a P30T with lens and the best camera bag I own, for 12 dollars at a thrift store... and the rest is history The ZX-M is now a paper weight, and not a good one at that, since it's so light

Anyway.

My "bag of goodies" got here yesterday. It's a pretty good time to buy filters since they are so cheap in the used market. I guess everyone's dumping them to use software instead... but good filters are still good filters so I thought I'd try some, after getting great results from a Hoya Linear Polarizer (49mm) with my M 28 3.5....

So I got:
- 2 brand new generic plastic tulip 52mm hoods, I find them great. My K 55 f2 needed one badly... the other will rotate among a couple other lenses, right now it's on the Rikenon 28 2.8. That's the extend of my brand new purchases this time... everything else is used:
- An ultra-slim 67mm Hoya Circular Polarizer for my DA 16-45.
- A 52mm Hoya Linear Polarizer for my 52mm lenses including the couple 24mm f/2.8 lenses where it will probably spend most of its time.
- 5 (!!!) filters for my Sigma 30 1.4 (62mm filter size): A Nikon Linear Polarizer (I only manually focus this lens since it's got such a great manual focus feel); a Tiffen Blue Enhancing filter; a Hoya Intensifier; a Nikon A2 (81B) warming filter; and the last minute addition was a B+W 81A warming filter - for 4 dollars, I thought I had to try it

The next thing I'm going to save up for is a couple graduated ND filters. Those are the only filters that you can't hardly ever find used... If I can get to the point where I can basically just convert RAW to JPEG without doing a lot of PP, I think I'll be happy.
07-25-2017, 09:48 AM   #10114
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^^ 81A and 81B are very useful for mixed light removing the blue cast from shaded areas and to enhance skin tones when using strobe fill. Sure, you can reduce the blue channel in post, but the old way still has value

07-25-2017, 11:18 AM - 1 Like   #10115
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QuoteOriginally posted by monochrome Quote
^^ 81A and 81B are very useful for mixed light removing the blue cast from shaded areas and to enhance skin tones when using strobe fill. Sure, you can reduce the blue channel in post, but the old way still has value
I agree. I have the 52mm and 77mm Nikon 81B filters, and I use them quite a bit, especially the 77mm on my Tokina 19-35mm, since the Tokina has a bit of a blue cast anyway.

I'm toying with the idea of shooting just with the Sigma 30 1.4 next year... that is why I'm getting all these 62mm filters.
07-25-2017, 12:30 PM   #10116
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
So yours was exactly like mine... tried to use it, and it breaks. Low quality plastic gets brittle...

I saw that it was possible to fix it, but instead I found a P30T with lens and the best camera bag I own, for 12 dollars at a thrift store... and the rest is history The ZX-M is now a paper weight, and not a good one at that, since it's so light

Anyway.

My "bag of goodies" got here yesterday. It's a pretty good time to buy filters since they are so cheap in the used market. I guess everyone's dumping them to use software instead... but good filters are still good filters so I thought I'd try some
Sadly, yes... In fact, the cynic in me suspects that this camera was sold as new and unused because a previous owner had already encountered the problem Maybe, maybe not. Either way, I'm happy to report my MZ-M / ZX-M operates consistently with most of the others out there The seller hasn't yet replied to my eBay return request, so I'll wait and see before asking eBay to step in...

Your filter haul sounds great. I also like the idea of getting as much right in-camera without resorting to excessive post-processing
07-25-2017, 12:59 PM - 1 Like   #10117
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By the way, the exact same thing happened to me with an A3000 I had before the ZX-M - first role of film and it died. That is why all my film stuff was done on a Minolta XG-M before I finally got a Pentax P30T... the other Pentaxes kept breaking as soon as I started using them.

I should have kept the K1000 I bought right after my first DSLR in 2013.

07-25-2017, 01:52 PM   #10118
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
By the way, the exact same thing happened to me with an A3000 I had before the ZX-M - first role of film and it died. That is why all my film stuff was done on a Minolta XG-M before I finally got a Pentax P30T... the other Pentaxes kept breaking as soon as I started using them.

I should have kept the K1000 I bought right after my first DSLR in 2013.
There must have been some considerable differences in the types of plastics used for gears. I have a 1999 Minolta Dynax 404si that is "all kinds of plastic" in construction, and - although quite tightly constructed - feels like it. It works very well, though, and I've seen no online reports of problems with gears stripping - yet I can't believe it's any better built than the MZ-M / ZX-M. It's a fairly basic low-budget camera, and clearly built to a price, but seems to be very reliable. So... different materials, perhaps?

Of course, now I've said this, just watch as the camera dies in the next few shutter presses
07-25-2017, 02:08 PM   #10119
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On Sunday I got a load of 35mm Pentax gear at a car boot sale (US="swap meet") - An MZ-5 which is the only 35mm Pentax body I've seen that has a panoramic mode, an SMC Pentax F 80-200 4.7-5.6, a Pentax FA 28-90 3.5-5.6, a Sigma AF 28-80 3.5-5.6, and a Doi 1.5X converter which unfortunately is manual only with no electronic connections. Probably destined for eBay UK eventually, but not until after I get back from my holidays.

And tonight I bought an old iMac G4 on eBay, but won't be able to pick it up until Sunday.

QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
So yours was exactly like mine... tried to use it, and it breaks. Low quality plastic gets brittle...

My "bag of goodies" got here yesterday. It's a pretty good time to buy filters since they are so cheap in the used market. I guess everyone's dumping them to use software instead... but good filters are still good filters so I thought I'd try some, after getting great results from a Hoya Linear Polarizer (49mm) with my M 28 3.5....
Tell me about it - I've been buying job lots of filters to get skylights etc. to go with the lenses I sell, I've now got about 30 effects filters etc. I'm going to have to unload, along with a load of T-mounts and other junk. Just listed the first tranche of them on eBay, won't be able to do more until after holidays.
07-25-2017, 03:14 PM - 2 Likes   #10120
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So... it's nice when things end this way. The eBay seller of my new-but-faulty MZ-M / ZX-M offered a partial refund that allows me to keep the non-working camera for about $8. But, with that camera was the brand-new, still-wrapped strap (and it's a nice velvet-backed version), as well as the genuine Pentax viewfinder cover (and there's a manual too, though it's not really of any use to me). So... I'm down about $8 but get a genuine Pentax strap and a viewfinder cover, plus a camera that I'd probably never fix, but now may try to And, as Chris mentioned, the manual focusing screen might be usable or adaptable for DSLRs...

Not the bargain of the century, but I can live with that. Both parties happy. Thumbs up to the seller... All good
07-25-2017, 04:01 PM   #10121
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I had Eric install an MZ-M focusing screen in my MZ-3 when he replaced the motor.
Surgery was a success and the patient now lives happily with another PF member.
Unfortunately I believe Dr. Hendrickson will no longer take on cases of this nature.

Chris
07-25-2017, 04:04 PM   #10122
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
I had Eric install an MZ-M focusing screen in my MZ-3 when he replaced the motor.
Surgery was a success and the patient now lives happily with another PF member.
Unfortunately I believe Dr. Hendrickson will no longer take on cases of this nature.
Thanks for that, Chris. I'll hang on to my "spares" and maybe I'll get to use them at some point
07-25-2017, 04:20 PM - 1 Like   #10123
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
The next thing I'm going to save up for is a couple graduated ND filters. .
Advice on split ND filters: Don't buy thread-ons. Get the rectangular type that insert into a holder (Cokin-style). With thread-on, the transition must always be across the center of the image. With rectangular type you can you can move the transition zone up-down where it's needed. Best way is not to use a holder at all. Hold the filter at the edges with the fingers of your left hand in contact with the front of the lens or in contact with the front of the lens hood*, and move up-down where desired. When using a graduated ND filter, it's best/easiest to have the camera tripod-mounted.

*As the filter is moved farther from the front of the lens, dust specks will show more.
07-25-2017, 05:08 PM   #10124
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QuoteOriginally posted by WPRESTO Quote
Advice on split ND filters: Don't buy thread-ons. Get the rectangular type that insert into a holder (Cokin-style). With thread-on, the transition must always be across the center of the image. With rectangular type you can you can move the transition zone up-down where it's needed. Best way is not to use a holder at all. Hold the filter at the edges with the fingers of your left hand in contact with the front of the lens or in contact with the front of the lens hood*, and move up-down where desired. When using a graduated ND filter, it's best/easiest to have the camera tripod-mounted.

*As the filter is moved farther from the front of the lens, dust specks will show more.
That is a good tip. And I can buy just one for all lenses that way But I'd probably have to shoot with a tripod...
07-25-2017, 05:25 PM - 4 Likes   #10125
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well

some posters may call us copy cats but by this time Saturday my wife and I will have gained a Daughter in Law ( actual ceremony scheduled to begin at 4 PM our time here in Topeka Kansas on July 29 )

Alexandra - Alex - will be married to our only child Scot
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