Your latest acquisition

SSGGeezer · 08-26-2018, 07:50 PM - **1 Like**

multiple little magnetic trays that they give away with a purchase at Harbor Freight! One for each corner of the device that the screws come out of. I always dump the non-magnetized dishes holding screws.

**WPRESTO** · 08-26-2018, 07:50 PM

Originally posted by UncleVanya

I like a large sheet that I can label and draw where the screws come out of. Double sided sticky tape to keep the little buggers from moving around on the paper also helps.

Sometimes I use sticky tape. The glue residue on the threads makes it challenging to get the screws back in, and almost impossible to remove the next time.

**UncleVanya** · 08-26-2018, 07:53 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by WPRESTO

Sometimes I use sticky tape. The glue residue on the threads makes it challenging to get the screws back in, and almost impossible to remove the next time.

I try to use weak sticky tape and put the screw head to the tape. But you make a good point.

**gaweidert** · 08-27-2018, 03:38 AM - **1 Like**

Diagrams, sticky tape and magnetic trays do not work for those small parts that evaporate as soon as they hit the air.

**pepperberry farm** · 08-27-2018, 04:03 AM - **3 Likes**

Originally posted by UncleVanya

I like a large sheet that I can label and draw where the screws come out of. Double sided sticky tape to keep the little buggers from moving around on the paper also helps.

the bane of my existence, double-sided tape...

invariably, everything BUT the item it's intended for gets stuck to the tape, including me....

**WPRESTO** · 08-27-2018, 04:14 AM

Originally posted by gaweidert

Diagrams, sticky tape and magnetic trays do not work for those small parts that evaporate as soon as they hit the air.

Sometimes they evaporate, sometimes machine screws as soon as they are backed out, change thread pitch.

**WPRESTO** · 08-27-2018, 04:15 AM - **3 Likes**

I also find that somehow manufacturers manage to make the heads of screws out of softer metal than the threads. Makes it easier to convert the "X" at the top into a nice neat circular pit.

IgorZ · 08-27-2018, 04:18 AM

Originally posted by WPRESTO

I also find that somehow manufacturers manage to make the heads of screws out of softer metal than the threads. Makes it easier to convert the "X" at the top into a nice neat circular pit.

That's true. I find that as of late when I assemble anything that comes with screws I go and buy some instead of using the ones that were supplied with the item. It seems that screws that are supplied are made from aluminum or some such soft alloy

**Cerebum** · 08-27-2018, 06:11 AM - **5 Likes**

I just bought this on eBay for £50. I offered the seller £60 a couple of months ago and he turned it down. Three price drops later I have it. I really only want the lens, I am pretty sure it is another tomioka and it looks beautiful. I possibly paid over the odds but as I have been looking at it for months I wasn't going to miss it

cyberjunkie · 08-27-2018, 08:05 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by wolfiegirl

wtf... 2.6-2.8?! HELLS YES.. what's the equivalent of that in pentaxland? DA* 17-50/2.8?

IIRC the f2.6/f2.8 was the first version of the fast "normal" Tokina zoom, whose optics were actually an Angenieux project.
When Angenieux stopped the production of 35mm lenses, Tokina acquired the rights to use one of their high-level zooms. Back in the day I badly wanted the "long" f/2.8 zoom, 70-210mm if I remember, but price was quite high. I saw only one second-hand example in PKA mount...
Those great lenses were made in polycarbonate, at a time when pro and advanced amateurs considered plastic a sacrilege. Few people wanted to invest plenty of money in a "plastic" lens

So Angenieux gave up...
At the time it was a very good zoom, and even today it should work more than fine.
I've read somewhere that later Tokina f/2.8 28-80mm zooms were actually derived from the first (Angenieux) project. I don't know if its' a simple rumour or there is some truth in it.
I know that later zooms were made in two (AF) versions. One is the AT-X and the other is the AT-X Pro.
I just received the latter, which should be the best of all the various versions.
It has a broken filter ring. I will use a step-up ring to affix a hood/cap to the front of the lens without fear of loosing it.
I wanted a battle scarred lens, to be used on my K-1 if I foresee any chance of damage. But the lens had to be not too inferior, compared to my Sigma EX DG HSM 2.8/24-70mm.
I found recent AF Sigma zooms with heavy optics (long range or f/2.8 speed) to be really good optically, but quite prone to damage, if the front of the objective gets knocked against something hard. It could even happen that the lens gets out of whack, with no visible sign of the accident!
The Tokina, even after falling to the floor at least once, and getting visibly damaged (quite horribly, I'd say), still works fine in AF and shows a decent level of sharpness. The zoom and the focusing ring (in manual) are everything but smooth and even, but the functionality is apparently not affected.
It seems that old Tokina zooms were very well built. It can be felt just handling the lens.
The mechanical construction seems to be a notch above Sigma's (and most Pentax AF zooms).
I think your f/2.6-2.8 version is at least on par with mine, if not better.
You might find the sharpness wide open a little lacking, but I'm sure that stopping down a stop or two you'd get a good performance.
I still have to test mine at mid diaphragms, though I don't see why it should perform too differently from my expectations.
Enjoy your lens. It's not very common and it's beautiful.

**Mbaez** · 08-27-2018, 08:43 AM - **2 Likes**

The 55* f1.4

JackvanS · 08-27-2018, 08:52 AM - **2 Likes**

AF201FG Flash. Just in case i need some fill in as K1 lacks a build in flash.

**blumoon722** · 08-27-2018, 08:55 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by cyberjunkie

Enjoy your lens. It's not very common and it's beautiful.

The lens has a Nikon mount, so I've been using it on a Lumix G-7 with adapter and a bit on a Canon EOS 30D with adapter.
If my Nikon D70 hadn't died, I would be able to use it in auto focus mode on that.

**pepperberry farm** · 08-27-2018, 11:32 AM

...need to check my SMU supply...

Sigma 70mm f2.8 EX DG Macro, on the way...

Originally posted by Mbaez

The 55* f1.4

possibly next month...

**monochrome** · 08-27-2018, 11:50 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by pepperberry farm

...need to check my SMU supply...

Sigma 70mm f2.8 EX DG Macro, on the way...

possibly next month...

Just missed - by 4 minutes - a pristine Ricoh Rikenon P 50/1.4 to replace the one I sold to a fellow member. I guess that’s OK given that my most recent acquisition is The Fat Fifty.

How many* sharp 50/1.4’s do I need?

* I have 9 50/1.4’s in 4 mounts, but I have 19 lenses 43mm-58mm, some in dupes, plus zooms covering 50mm. Gluttony.

Post count August = 160

08-27-2018, 06:11 AM - 5 Likes	#13629
Cerebum Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Lancaster Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,828	I just bought this on eBay for £50. I offered the seller £60 a couple of months ago and he turned it down. Three price drops later I have it. I really only want the lens, I am pretty sure it is another tomioka and it looks beautiful. I possibly paid over the odds but as I have been looking at it for months I wasn't going to miss it Attached Images

08-27-2018, 08:55 AM - 1 Like	#13633
blumoon722 Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 424	Tokina AT-X pro AF 28-70mm 2.6-2.8 Originally posted by cyberjunkie Enjoy your lens. It's not very common and it's beautiful. The lens has a Nikon mount, so I've been using it on a Lumix G-7 with adapter and a bit on a Canon EOS 30D with adapter. If my Nikon D70 hadn't died, I would be able to use it in auto focus mode on that.

08-27-2018, 11:50 AM - 1 Like	#13635
monochrome Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Working From Home Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 26,276	Originally posted by pepperberry farm ...need to check my SMU supply... Sigma 70mm f2.8 EX DG Macro, on the way... possibly next month... Just missed - by 4 minutes - a pristine Ricoh Rikenon P 50/1.4 to replace the one I sold to a fellow member. I guess that’s OK given that my most recent acquisition is The Fat Fifty. How many* sharp 50/1.4’s do I need? * I have 9 50/1.4’s in 4 mounts, but I have 19 lenses 43mm-58mm, some in dupes, plus zooms covering 50mm. Gluttony. Post count August = 160 Last edited by monochrome; 08-27-2018 at 12:17 PM.

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08-26-2018, 07:50 PM - 1 Like	#13621
SSGGeezer Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Indiana, U.S. Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,845	multiple little magnetic trays that they give away with a purchase at Harbor Freight! One for each corner of the device that the screws come out of. I always dump the non-magnetized dishes holding screws.

08-26-2018, 07:50 PM	#13622
WPRESTO Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Massachusetts Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 59,089	Originally posted by UncleVanya I like a large sheet that I can label and draw where the screws come out of. Double sided sticky tape to keep the little buggers from moving around on the paper also helps. Sometimes I use sticky tape. The glue residue on the threads makes it challenging to get the screws back in, and almost impossible to remove the next time.

08-26-2018, 07:53 PM - 1 Like	#13623
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,385	Originally posted by WPRESTO Sometimes I use sticky tape. The glue residue on the threads makes it challenging to get the screws back in, and almost impossible to remove the next time. I try to use weak sticky tape and put the screw head to the tape. But you make a good point.

08-27-2018, 03:38 AM - 1 Like	#13624
gaweidert Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Rochester, NY Photos: Gallery Posts: 5,325	Diagrams, sticky tape and magnetic trays do not work for those small parts that evaporate as soon as they hit the air.

08-27-2018, 04:03 AM - 3 Likes	#13625
pepperberry farm amateur dirt farmer Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: probably out in a field somewhere... Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 41,636	Originally posted by UncleVanya I like a large sheet that I can label and draw where the screws come out of. Double sided sticky tape to keep the little buggers from moving around on the paper also helps. the bane of my existence, double-sided tape... invariably, everything BUT the item it's intended for gets stuck to the tape, including me....

08-27-2018, 04:14 AM	#13626
WPRESTO Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Massachusetts Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 59,089	Originally posted by gaweidert Diagrams, sticky tape and magnetic trays do not work for those small parts that evaporate as soon as they hit the air. Sometimes they evaporate, sometimes machine screws as soon as they are backed out, change thread pitch.

08-27-2018, 04:15 AM - 3 Likes	#13627
WPRESTO Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Massachusetts Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 59,089	I also find that somehow manufacturers manage to make the heads of screws out of softer metal than the threads. Makes it easier to convert the "X" at the top into a nice neat circular pit.

08-27-2018, 04:18 AM	#13628
IgorZ Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 1,735	Originally posted by WPRESTO I also find that somehow manufacturers manage to make the heads of screws out of softer metal than the threads. Makes it easier to convert the "X" at the top into a nice neat circular pit. That's true. I find that as of late when I assemble anything that comes with screws I go and buy some instead of using the ones that were supplied with the item. It seems that screws that are supplied are made from aluminum or some such soft alloy

08-27-2018, 08:05 AM - 1 Like	#13630
cyberjunkie Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Chiang Mai, Bologna, Amsterdam Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,198	Originally posted by wolfiegirl wtf... 2.6-2.8?! HELLS YES.. what's the equivalent of that in pentaxland? DA* 17-50/2.8? IIRC the f2.6/f2.8 was the first version of the fast "normal" Tokina zoom, whose optics were actually an Angenieux project. When Angenieux stopped the production of 35mm lenses, Tokina acquired the rights to use one of their high-level zooms. Back in the day I badly wanted the "long" f/2.8 zoom, 70-210mm if I remember, but price was quite high. I saw only one second-hand example in PKA mount... Those great lenses were made in polycarbonate, at a time when pro and advanced amateurs considered plastic a sacrilege. Few people wanted to invest plenty of money in a "plastic" lens So Angenieux gave up... At the time it was a very good zoom, and even today it should work more than fine. I've read somewhere that later Tokina f/2.8 28-80mm zooms were actually derived from the first (Angenieux) project. I don't know if its' a simple rumour or there is some truth in it. I know that later zooms were made in two (AF) versions. One is the AT-X and the other is the AT-X Pro. I just received the latter, which should be the best of all the various versions. It has a broken filter ring. I will use a step-up ring to affix a hood/cap to the front of the lens without fear of loosing it. I wanted a battle scarred lens, to be used on my K-1 if I foresee any chance of damage. But the lens had to be not too inferior, compared to my Sigma EX DG HSM 2.8/24-70mm. I found recent AF Sigma zooms with heavy optics (long range or f/2.8 speed) to be really good optically, but quite prone to damage, if the front of the objective gets knocked against something hard. It could even happen that the lens gets out of whack, with no visible sign of the accident! The Tokina, even after falling to the floor at least once, and getting visibly damaged (quite horribly, I'd say), still works fine in AF and shows a decent level of sharpness. The zoom and the focusing ring (in manual) are everything but smooth and even, but the functionality is apparently not affected. It seems that old Tokina zooms were very well built. It can be felt just handling the lens. The mechanical construction seems to be a notch above Sigma's (and most Pentax AF zooms). I think your f/2.6-2.8 version is at least on par with mine, if not better. You might find the sharpness wide open a little lacking, but I'm sure that stopping down a stop or two you'd get a good performance. I still have to test mine at mid diaphragms, though I don't see why it should perform too differently from my expectations. Enjoy your lens. It's not very common and it's beautiful.

08-27-2018, 08:43 AM - 2 Likes	#13631
Mbaez Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: NY Photos: Albums Posts: 3,772	The 55* f1.4

08-27-2018, 08:52 AM - 2 Likes	#13632
JackvanS Junior Member Join Date: May 2018 Posts: 39	AF201FG Flash. Just in case i need some fill in as K1 lacks a build in flash.

08-27-2018, 11:32 AM	#13634
pepperberry farm amateur dirt farmer Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: probably out in a field somewhere... Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 41,636	...need to check my SMU supply... Sigma 70mm f2.8 EX DG Macro, on the way... Originally posted by Mbaez The 55* f1.4 possibly next month...

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