As Walt mentioned it's like magic watching the image appear in a well-made print.
However in other respects my darkroom experiences were mostly quite the opposite.
Those many long printing sessions are among my most treasured photographic memories.
The darkroom in the Anthropology department at CUNY - Queens College in the 1980's was very warm and welcoming.
It was equipped with five Beseler 23C XL enlargers and everything required to make excellent 35mm and medium format prints.
Fresh chemistry was always provided for our use. We did have to provide our own printing paper.
It's not cheap - especially on a student's budget - so one learned to judge exposure times quickly.
Later when I framed out my own darkroom in my parent's basement I tried to make it spacious and as comfortable as possible as well.
In my experience with proper ventilation fumes from standard chemicals are barely detectable.
And IMO the scent of fixer on your hands is the true mark of a photographer!
Chris