[TJWest]

Hi all,

I have had my k30 for a week and have taken a couple thousand photos with it, mostly very pleased. I was wondering though, the body has FF issues, as each of my three lenses have needed a -7 adjustment to start taking clear pics. Would you send the camera back? I mean, it works, but the max is 10, so that doesn't give me much leeway on the FF side of things. Would you consider it faulty?

Thanks in advance,

TJWest

[Fontan]

I would definitely send it back.

[rawr]

My 2c:

- are you sure your AF testing was exact?
- there's no guarantee that your next body or lens will be perfect:
LensRentals.com - “This Lens Is Soft” and Other Facts
LensRentals.com - "This lens is soft" and other myths
LensRentals.com - Notes on Lens and Camera Variation

[TJWest]

As accurate as my MCGyver method is I guess...? Note, even the "sharp" part is not as sharp as I would expect it to be...

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[crewl1]

I thought focus tests were supposed to be done outdoors in daylight?

[JinDesu]

How are you shooting this? On a tripod? That picture looks tilted.

To accurately judge front or back focus, your camera MUST be level with the target. I do not think your camera is based on that image.

There's a reason why focus tests use the ruler at a 45 degree angle alongside the target - when shot straight on, you can't really read the ruler if it is flat.

[loco]

Are your photos soft in the field? In my experience, focus tests are difficult to get right for all the reasons JinDesu described. I don't worry about a lens unless I notice most of my photos are out of focus and then I'll try testing it.

That said, so far I have not noticed any FF or BF problems with the four lenses I've tried on my K-30 to this point. So, if indeed all your lenses are producing soft photos, you might want to exchange the camera while you can.

[TJWest]

My tripod is still packed in a box as we are in the middle of a move, but I made sure the shutter speed was fast enough to compensate. It is maybe not a reliable test but until I find that damn tripod it is the best I can do. The lenses are just annoying me in the field with their inconsistency, and I wanted to try something.

There are way too few keepers in the field in terms of sharpness. The kit lens is hit or miss on sharpness. At -8, it seems to be a bit better, gives me basically the results I expect from such a cheap lens.

The 35mm 2.4 is mostly soft, and have tried extensive testing with -1 to -7. Still very miss, with a few hits though. I expect misses on AF, but not at that rate on a prime. Even the infinity shots come out blurry lots of times. I am going insane trying to dial it in right.

The Tamron is my anchor. it took also -7 on the AF adjustment, but man it is sharp as a tack almost every time, and if the focus is off, it is because I moved while it was at 1:1. That is what I would expect from the 35mm too. From the 35mm I am getting about 10% sharp. I just don't trust it.

Camera? Or Kit and 35mm lens?

Edit- I did try Rice High's blog method of fixing the focus issues and ended up at -8 on the kit, -7 on the Tamron and -4 on the 35mm (using a pencil to mark it). The kit and the Tamron seem pretty dialed in, but still not happy with the 35 though...more tests to do I guess, but am getting rather sick of trying to get it right.

thanks for the help

TJWest

[loco]

That doesn't sound good, TJ. I think I'd get an exchange. If the same thing happens, then you'll know it's the lenses. But at least you'll know. I am not having any trouble getting shots in focus with any lens so far and I haven't made any focus adjustments on the body.

[JinDesu]

I was suggesting the tripod to ensure that the camera is perfectly level with the target. Again, you need to be perfectly level with the target to ensure the focus zone covers your target entirely. The ruler should be at a 45 degree angle centered at the middle of the target to provide indication of front or back focus.

My DA 35 F2.4 required 130um (+13) before it was accurate. Someone else said theirs required some absurd adjustment for theirs as well. I do not know if it is typical of the DA 35 F2.4 (not many reports of this).

I know my DA 35 F2.4 was dropped once from a pretty big height though. No idea if it is related.

The zoom lens will vary where it's focus works. My Tamron 70-200 is +10 at 70mm, +5 at 135mm, and something like -5 at 200mm when close focus. It can be annoying.

When the test conditions are perfect, there should be very few misses on the target at the right AF adjustment. If you want me to, I can show you how I did my setup at home - but I will be home late.

[SpecialK]

It's within the adjustment range, so I don't see it as a warranty issue.

[Edgar_in_Indy]

My K-30 was also severely front focusing, and I thought about sending it back, but I instead sent my camera and my four Sigma lenses to Sigma to have the lenses calibrated to the body. I had previously had the lenses calibrated to my K-x, so I wasn't sure if it was actually my K-x that had been out of wack, and that's why the lenses were so out of calibration for my K-30.

[kevcol]

I think give it +7 in the global settings and then readjust for individual lenses.
I found they interact. That may make you happy.

[Edgar_in_Indy]

The individual settings are cumulative with the global setting? Are you sure? I don't think I remember seeing that in the manual, but that would certainly be good to know.

[rawr]

I know my DA 35 F2.4 was dropped once from a pretty big height though. No idea if it is related.

I think it would be. Lenses are precision equipment with tight tolerances and no built-in shock absorption. Decentering, AF problems - when a lens is dropped from a big height (or kicked about in transit by couriers, as has happened to me), it's rarely good news.