[IchabodCrane]

I UNDERSTAND!!!! LOL.... There are days where I thought I would pass out before my K5 would!!!!

On the AA battery holder, it IS a good concept, but not if the OEM only lasts 410 shots. And changing batteries after there is a quick drain for some reason (which happens) and you are not in a situation where changing 4 batteries instead of one is feasible, then loading those 4 batteries in its holder and then into the cam, then storing the individual other 4 batteries in the appropriate holder to NOT mix up old AA with new (which one drained battery in mixup is a disaster).....come on...time it!!! It takes 5 times as long at least to change AA batteries, and when you are not in the situation for it, it is a hassle.

I agree, those situations are FAR limited and it is more the shooters fault (my fault) if I did not note my battery situation before hand...BUT, those 2 bar down to 1 bar and nothing in the battery can happen VERY fast if you have been reviewing pics a lot, OR using Live view/contrast detect to focus, which I have so often done. So quick battery drains happen and 2 minutes to change a battery instead of 20-30 seconds can be critical.

I know it does not seem like long to load those AA batteries, but time it...you will see the difference in those rare moments. AND YES, yesterday, I was out for 6 hours and completely drained 2 K5 batteries and started on a 3rd. If you are intense about snapping repeatedly, the D-LI90 really is the only option for a safety net.

You are more than welcome to call me lazy though!!! LOL !!!

Sorry if I wasn't more clear. I meant you can purchase a second in-camera AA battery holder that can be preloaded. You can find them for around $5 on ebay. That way you never have to load the individual AA batteries while out on a shoot. Takes no longer than just swapping Li-ion batteries.

[dragra]

JF Jayhawk I summarize your posts:

1. you own K-5 and K-01 and have previously had a K-r
2. you are a professional level shooter and you always shoot RAW
3. you do primary action & sports in tough (wet & hot) environments
4. you are using Live-View and your preferred AF-method is phase-detect
5. you shoot at least 1K shots once and you expect no least from battery
6. you are using Pentax DCU and SilkyPix (Pentax Editon) to develop

Please correct me if I was wrong somewhere.

1.
Concerning your choice of systems, I cannot stop wondering. Maybe a Canon or Nikon top offering would suit you better?

2.
It was about 2 years ago when a professional wedding photographer (Canon user) told me he is shooting JPEG-only. The point was his camera had better DR than my K20D and he could go that way without sacrifice. When I got the K-r I saw that the DR was wider as K20D and that there is no more need to shoot DNG 100%. In the studio I still shoot RAW for highest possible quality, but since K-r arrived I don't longer shoot exclusively RAW on outside events. As the K-30 arrived the DR latitude was stretched even further, which is amazing. The need for RAW all the time got even more reduced.

3.
Pentax does not excel in capturing fast paced action and sports, there is still no true predictive AF and some of the top lenses are slow. See 1st chapter.

4.
FPS and accuracy in LV increase much if you use contrast detect AF, although LV is not the most suitable way to shoot action and sports (as you already noted).

5.
Buy a battery-grip for your K-5 and also get aditional batteries.

6.
Use Lightroom or some other more efficient software to deal with the large amount of files you produce. Forget Pentax DCU and the new SilkyPix.

[SteveB]

By the way........isn't this all a MASSIVE high jacking from the original posted topic???????

I would be very interested to hear comparisons of the K5 mark I vs K30 images and use of the original PDCU vs the new Silky pix to manage photo editing from those cameras. Especially editing CA's.

Also, new Silky Pix does not have the Dodge feature or Shadow Correction.

As much as that seems an off topic, it really is a part of image quality from those cams for the original PDCU is like having the K5 on your PC....I loved that about it. IF I forgot to turn on my shadow correction, I can go to RAW in PDCU and turn it on. OR I would use Dodge for lifting shadows in Portraits which (for me) worked better than lifting gamma or messing with contrast which has a different effect.

I really want a K30, but after having a K01 and using its firmware (which is the same as the K30) and using the new Silky Pix, I find it hard to get a K30 or K5 Mark II for that matter for the new Silky Pix seems more limited, though much smoother than the original PDCU in operation.

The full retail version of Silkypix Developer Studio Pro 5 has dodging and HDR.

[JF Jayhawk]

JF Jayhawk I summarize your posts:

1. you own K-5 and K-01 and have previously had a K-r
2. you are a professional level shooter and you always shoot RAW
3. you do primary action & sports in tough (wet & hot) environments
4. you are using Live-View and your preferred AF-method is phase-detect
5. you shoot at least 1K shots once and you expect no least from battery
6. you are using Pentax DCU and SilkyPix (Pentax Editon) to develop

Please correct me if I was wrong somewhere.

1.
Concerning your choice of systems, I cannot stop wondering. Maybe a Canon or Nikon top offering would suit you better?

2.
It was about 2 years ago when a professional wedding photographer (Canon user) told me he is shooting JPEG-only. The point was his camera had better DR than my K20D and he could go that way without sacrifice. When I got the K-r I saw that the DR was wider as K20D and that there is no more need to shoot DNG 100%. In the studio I still shoot RAW for highest possible quality, but since K-r arrived I don't longer shoot exclusively RAW on outside events. As the K-30 arrived the DR latitude was stretched even further, which is amazing. The need for RAW all the time got even more reduced.

3.
Pentax does not excel in capturing fast paced action and sports, there is still no true predictive AF and some of the top lenses are slow. See 1st chapter.

4.
FPS and accuracy in LV increase much if you use contrast detect AF, although LV is not the most suitable way to shoot action and sports (as you already noted).

5.
Buy a battery-grip for your K-5 and also get aditional batteries.

6.
Use Lightroom or some other more efficient software to deal with the large amount of files you produce. Forget Pentax DCU and the new SilkyPix.

Hey bud, I am laughing in my head for I agree with EVERYTHING you just summed up about my shooting, but I think I need to clarify that (humorously) you got me wrong....perhaps a lot of that is my fault.

This is actually quite fun (LOL)

Okay, here it goes...starting from your last comments and moving towards the first comments (to make things more fun)......

On the cameras to use and software for each use as a photographer....you are ABSOLUTELY DEAD ACCURATE in my opinion. ALL comments 1-6 regarding software to use, the K5 battery grip, and using Canon or Nikon for action and Pentax for stills, I am on the same page with you.

As for what kind of shooter I am!?!?!?!?!? [drum roll please]........I am a STILLS shooter, shooting in harsh conditions half the time - mostly dirt and dust flying, and i love to shoot in the fog. I am usually rolling in the grass when I do that.

I am DEFINITELY NOT a pro, but I shoot a lot of landscape/architecture. If I were pro, I would photograph and promote architectural work. But I am learning. If I shot weddings and sports (sorry, for me,,,,,yawn) I would shoot with a Nikon (D7100....oh yeah!!!!) and NEVER EVER ANYTHING BY CANON (Thanks mostly to the Ron Howard/Canon B.S., marketing hype, and the ridiculousness that every snotty "mommy" thinks......"oooooo, I have a Canon"...like that means anything?!?!?!

I love Nikon performance, hate the build and menus. I fell in love with the KR, and off I went.....Pentax it has been ever since.

Yes, I own a K01 which I both love and hate. Got it for a steal to shoot indoors for quick manual focusing and shot to shot times in live view versus the "ever miserable" K5 live view performance that has visual latency while trying to see your subject through the LCD. Trees blowing, pets moving...blur and uncertainty manually focusing is dominant. With the K01 (and k30), what you see is what you get almost without delay while manual focusing. It is also very quiet, unlike the KR and K30 (which really does not apply to me though). I just like smooth operation in a camera, and I often need live view. The K5 contrast detect focusing system WHEN TRIPODED is awesome, but if you want to put the cam by your feet or knees for low-to-the-ground wide angle shots from 16-35mm FL, forget it. It is too sluggish...but the K01 is BAM....got it, the second you click. I am trying to be religous about tripoding, but sometimes, I just don't wanna (spoiled behavior, right?)

---

Last edited by JF Jayhawk; 04-23-2013 at 06:23 AM.

[SteveB]

I disagree twice.

First, it is true that DNG (RAW) gives you the edge under difficuld light, but in well lit situations there is very little need for RAW with K-30 at all. I shoot a lot of fast action soccer lately and started out with RAW+ setting. I found out that even in bright sun DR of OOC JPEGs is so enormous, that I didn't need my DNG backup files anymore.

Second, do yourself a favor and switch the AF for LV from phase-detect to contrast detect. You will get rid of mirror-flapping and gain more accuracy and sheer speed. Further, if you enable focus-peaking you got the fastest and most precise control for your MF lens gear (if you own any).

Can't agree with JPG having good enough DR. I haven't found any digital camera good enough to cope with UK typical outdoor lighting conditions and produce an image that looks real unless RAW is used.

First I ever knew that LV had phase detect AF available on the K-30. That menu entry isn't there on mine (or anyone else's but yours).

[dragra]

Can't agree with JPG having good enough DR. I haven't found any digital camera good enough to cope with UK typical outdoor lighting conditions and produce an image that looks real unless RAW is used.

First I ever knew that LV had phase detect AF available on the K-30. That menu entry isn't there on mine (or anyone else's but yours).

First, I said that DR from K-r (and K-30) JPEGs is good enough for me (and also for commercial purposes). I did not say it is good enough for the typical UK weather & lightning. The light & weather on the continent spoiled us.

Second, JF has talked about his K-5 and its behaviour during LV-phase-AF and my comment went on his account.

[kshapero]

I went with K- 30 and the Q. I use the Q 75% of the time. Why? It is alway with me.