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06-26-2013, 03:14 PM   #16
Jon
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Thanks for the tips and comments guys. I assumed the battery LCD must be inaccurate at times. I have always had a spare for my other cameras, and I guess it's best to pick one up for this one, especially considering the pentax battery charger is one of those damn corded ones. (Get with the times pentax!). I have gotten much better at removing the sd card, after shooting it across the room a couple times. I received my rokinon 35/1.4 yesterday and am properly impressed with the combo of body and lens. One of the reasons I still enjoy shooting film is the in lack of accuracy of color and WB in so many digital cameras. The k30 however has impressed me with both, even AWB indoors. I've got some more lighting gear adapters coming in today and will be experimenting with how the k30 copes with off camera remote triggered flash.
I have been wanting to get accustomed to the k30 before I start slinging old gear on eBay, but now I am confident this will be the camera I reach for most of the time. However the Rokinon lens may be a little too obnoxiously big for effective street shooting. By that's where compact film cameras shine anyways.

06-26-2013, 09:19 PM   #17
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I was having a great time with my off-camera flash setup tonight...


WHEN THIS HAPPENED...
1/160 @ f:2.8 wirelessly triggering flash/umbrella


I have not experienced this when shooting without a wireless sync. I did however get a result similar to this 4 times this evening.
I have been researching the issue and saw a couple incidents where this would occur w/o flash at much higher shutter speeds, but nothing at speeds this low.
Is it possible that this is only the result of my cheap-ish flash syncs? or is this indicative of a Pentax issue within the body?
Any advice would be very helpful.
Thanks in advance guys.
06-27-2013, 08:10 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jon Quote
I was having a great time with my off-camera flash setup tonight...


WHEN THIS HAPPENED...
1/160 @ f:2.8 wirelessly triggering flash/umbrella


I have not experienced this when shooting without a wireless sync. I did however get a result similar to this 4 times this evening.
I have been researching the issue and saw a couple incidents where this would occur w/o flash at much higher shutter speeds, but nothing at speeds this low.
Is it possible that this is only the result of my cheap-ish flash syncs? or is this indicative of a Pentax issue within the body?
Any advice would be very helpful.
Thanks in advance guys.
Was this a wireless P-TTL flash, radio triggers, what? Through umbrella, bounced into an umbrella?

To me it looks like something was blocking part of the flash because the edge is feathered - if it was the shutter, the edge should be sharper. Without more information, I would say bounced into an umbrella and the umbrella and the bottom edge of the umbrella was too high.
06-27-2013, 09:55 AM   #19
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No it was not the flash or umbrella configuration casting a shadow. It occurred with bouncing into umbrella and also while using a soft box. I took a handful of shots in each position/configuration and the underexposed results were not constant. It is defiantly something directly effecting the shutter/mirror/sensor.

06-27-2013, 10:11 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jon Quote
No it was not the flash or umbrella configuration casting a shadow. It occurred with bouncing into umbrella and also while using a soft box. I took a handful of shots in each position/configuration and the underexposed results were not constant. It is defiantly something directly effecting the shutter/mirror/sensor.
Maybe a slow mirror (the image is projected upside down on the sensor, so the mirror would be at the bottom rather than the top), but I have trouble seeing this as a shutter issue. But if a slow mirror, you should see it in non-flash photography too. Given that you describe this as only happening with flash photography, I am still inclined to think there was something external to the camera body blocking the light from the flash. The bottom of the image is severely underexposed, not blocked out.
06-27-2013, 10:34 AM   #21
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My initial thought was the mirror also. The lighting was way to indirect to create such a clean shadow. Again, the results were not consistent. The exact same set up as this produced images that were just fine. Maybe on occasion the wireless Transmitters were firing the flash slightly out of sync. As when the mirror was opening or closing.
06-27-2013, 10:36 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jon Quote
My initial thought was the mirror also. The lighting was way to indirect to create such a clean shadow. Again, the results were not consistent. The exact same set up as this produced images that were just fine. Maybe on occasion the wireless Transmitters were firing the flash slightly out of sync. As when the mirror was opening or closing.
Ah, that's why I first asked how you were triggering your flashes.
06-27-2013, 10:48 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by JimJohnson Quote
Ah, that's why I first asked how you were triggering your flashes.
Ahh, my bad for overlooking that. Yea, cost 'effective' cowboy studio triggers. Thanks.

06-27-2013, 11:46 AM - 1 Like   #24
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Since you are using 1/160 as your x-sync value, I am guessing you are also using the default 1/3 stop metering steps ..... if you change both of the related menu items to the more traditional 1/2 stop steps, you can use the full 1/180 x-sync speed.

The 1/6 stop difference is negligible, and speaking for myself, it is a lot easier to memorize the fewer number of in between 1/2 stops than the double number of in between 1/3 stops. I can just halve/double ISO, shutter, or aperture values for full stops, then mentally back up a step.
06-27-2013, 12:35 PM   #25
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Hey, thanks a lot Jim! I was curious about that. Will do.
06-27-2013, 02:11 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by OrangeKx Quote
The IQ of the color shot looks nice.
I agree. Very nice.
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