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09-16-2013, 02:01 PM   #1
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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K-30 AE/AF Lock Button

Looking for some help using my K-30 getting away from full auto mode.

If I set the AE/AF lock button to AF do I still get AE if I press the shutter release button? I understand if I press the green button I will get AE but if I recompose (let's say I am zooming in or out or taking shots of my child swinging on a swing set) I will focus via the AE/AF lock button - do I need to press the green button each time I refocus to account for a new exposure?

I set the focus point to the center (to prevent auto focusing on the wrong area (IE sometimes the focus point was my daughters hand or the swing rope rather than her face). I now get a focused face but sometimes the results come out darker or lighter as I zoom or recompose.

Should I keep the AF when I 1/2 press the shutter release? I enjoy trying different configurations but it is very frustrating to think I am losing shots because I have changed more than I can control. I have also used the action scene setting for the swing set shots but have had mixed results with that too. Good thing for digital images, can't image how much money I would have spent developing bad pictures

09-18-2013, 11:37 AM   #2
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The default (=1) menu item 'AE-L with AF locked' will let the exposure recalculate if you recompose after an AF lock (AE/AF button or shutter half-press) but with it set to 2 if you recompose after an AF lock the set exposure won't change. I think it may be worth playing with this setting going by your usage issues. Another setting to use could be the 'Link AE and AF point' option. I don't think it makes any difference to AE behaviour if the AF/AE button is used for AF instead of the shutter button, other than there's only one button and it can only work AE or AF not both.

I tend to use Av mode 99% of the time with the green button/back wheel used to toggle between Auto ISO and adjustable fixed ISO, so I've not got much use for other green button operations so can't really help much there.

I think most people tend to use the semi-auto modes like Av, Tv and get used to using the exposure compensation top button in circumstances where you 'know' the camera is bound to get it a bit wrong. This 2nd sense comes with experience, but basically if there's a lot of light subjects in the frame you need +ve EV, if there's a high proportion of dark subjects in the frame you need -ve EV compensation, usually anyway, there's always going to be special cases. The amount of sky or reflected sky (e.g. the sea) in outdoor shots is a good subject to practice with, if there's say 50% sky you may well need +0.7EV or thereabouts - play around, it doesn't cost anything other than your time.

If you can use RAW mode then there's a lot more leeway with exposure mishaps compared to JPG - it's worth getting to know RAW well.
09-19-2013, 01:26 PM   #3
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: New Hampshire
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QuoteOriginally posted by SteveB Quote
The default (=1) menu item 'AE-L with AF locked' will let the exposure recalculate if you recompose after an AF lock (AE/AF button or shutter half-press) but with it set to 2 if you recompose after an AF lock the set exposure won't change. I think it may be worth playing with this setting going by your usage issues. Another setting to use could be the 'Link AE and AF point' option. I don't think it makes any difference to AE behaviour if the AF/AE button is used for AF instead of the shutter button, other than there's only one button and it can only work AE or AF not both.

I tend to use Av mode 99% of the time with the green button/back wheel used to toggle between Auto ISO and adjustable fixed ISO, so I've not got much use for other green button operations so can't really help much there.

I think most people tend to use the semi-auto modes like Av, Tv and get used to using the exposure compensation top button in circumstances where you 'know' the camera is bound to get it a bit wrong. This 2nd sense comes with experience, but basically if there's a lot of light subjects in the frame you need +ve EV, if there's a high proportion of dark subjects in the frame you need -ve EV compensation, usually anyway, there's always going to be special cases. The amount of sky or reflected sky (e.g. the sea) in outdoor shots is a good subject to practice with, if there's say 50% sky you may well need +0.7EV or thereabouts - play around, it doesn't cost anything other than your time.

If you can use RAW mode then there's a lot more leeway with exposure mishaps compared to JPG - it's worth getting to know RAW well.
Hi SteveB

Thanks for the reply, I will try your suggestions, I did have it set to 2 and will also try the AE AF link. I have been using Tv as a means to keep action shots in focus but will try Av.

I should probably just leave the settings alone and take many shots to force me to gain a better working knowledge for that specific setting.


Thanks again
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