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10-04-2013, 04:37 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by hnikesch Quote
I have both the Pentax and a aftermarket adapter. Both work great and I would trust the aftermarket adapter. I got mine for $6.00 US vs $34 for the Pentax. Eneloops, I get more shots with the Eneloops than with the DLI109 batteries, don't know exactly how many more. The adapter has saved me once with a dead battery. You can also keep a spare set of AA lithium batteries, I got about 1700 shots on a set

Hans
Can the original LI109 battery retain charge when not in use?? The main issue am finding it, since am running on one battery...I tend to charge it more often when ever I go out since I dont want to run out of charge. I will check if the adapter is available on store...

10-04-2013, 07:17 PM   #17
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I had a chance to go whale watching off Cape Cod in June. I used a K-30 and had my DA 18-135 and DAL 55-300 with me.
I got the most very good pictures with the 18-135.
I got the fewest good pictures but some of the best with the 55-300.
The problem w/ the 55-300 is keeping shake down at the long end and because it's so hard to quick spot and focus on a briefly breaching whale on the long end when you have such a small field of view.
I was out on a fairly bright day, so that helped, but between the movement of the boat and the whale, I needed to be shooting 1/250.
I mainly used TAV: 1/250 and f8 to give me some workable depth of field.
You could also try sports mode.
In the end, a lot will turn on how much light you have, how close the whales are to the boat... and a lot of luck!
10-04-2013, 08:38 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by mgvh Quote
I had a chance to go whale watching off Cape Cod in June. I used a K-30 and had my DA 18-135 and DAL 55-300 with me.
I got the most very good pictures with the 18-135.
I got the fewest good pictures but some of the best with the 55-300.
The problem w/ the 55-300 is keeping shake down at the long end and because it's so hard to quick spot and focus on a briefly breaching whale on the long end when you have such a small field of view.
I was out on a fairly bright day, so that helped, but between the movement of the boat and the whale, I needed to be shooting 1/250.
I mainly used TAV: 1/250 and f8 to give me some workable depth of field.
You could also try sports mode.
In the end, a lot will turn on how much light you have, how close the whales are to the boat... and a lot of luck!
Thanks mgvh....That really helps...couple of queries....Did you use continuous (burst) mode or the single shot mode...I believe the burst mode option is not available in sports mode......Also the lens needs to be in AF.S or AF.C??... I still dont get the AF.C option when I tried to play with it a bit though...Am sincerely hoping I would get to see some whales...
10-05-2013, 01:20 PM   #19
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I think I had left it in AF-S, but it might have been a good idea to use AF-C.
Burst mode is available in sports/moving object mode, and I'm pretty sure it automatically switches to continuous focus.
Good luck!

10-09-2013, 05:52 PM   #20
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Had good time with whale watching although the whales were bit quiet....Just captured mostly the tail parts and 18-135mm lens is definitely not sufficient.... I had my camera in AF-S with Auto (Sports) in burst mode. I did nt have any spare battery and hence had to rely on OEM Li-109...But surprisingly I took 2200 shots with still 75% battery remaining as per the indicator...But it did not allow me to perform Pixel mapping and hence had to charge my battery....But 2200 shots without live view, auto burst mode is still amazing....But I did nt get 6FPS in burst mode though...may be 2 or 3 per second in Jpeg mode.....But I had another person with long 500mm zoom lens and his camera was literally firing like a machine gun....not sure how much FPS was that....I did nt get to see the make and model of the camera though....since he was went to the other side of the boat....
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