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11-12-2015, 01:23 PM   #31
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^ It looks like the image is not in focus to me. Do this instead.

  1. Hit the info button twice to get to the display option menu.
  2. Turn off the display. It's very bright at night.
  3. Set the focus to manual.
  4. Look into the view finder & manually focus on the brightest star.
  5. Depending on your focal length, you will have to use this equation to get a shot without star trails: 500/(1.5xFL) = time in seconds. Using the 18mm end of the kit lens would be 500/(1.5x18) = 500/27 = 18.519 or 18 seconds to be on the safe side. You could do less time depending on your ISO & aperture settings.
  6. Once you figure out the time in seconds required, fire away.
  7. Take a look at the image & readjust focus, ISO, aperture, and/or time if required.

That's it.

P.S. You have to use the "B" (bulb) setting on the camera. You will have to set the bulb setting to 2 in the menu. This way you open the shutter with the remote & close it with the remote. You will have to manually count the seconds yourself.


Last edited by The Squirrel Mafia; 11-12-2015 at 01:31 PM.
11-12-2015, 06:18 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by The Squirrel Mafia Quote
^ It looks like the image is not in focus to me. Do this instead.
Looks that way to me too. Focusing short focal length lenses in total darkness is always a challenge. Not sure if live view would work with a 35 mm but if you point a very bright star (Vega early evening, Sirius middle of the night) and turn on liveview at maximum magnification you should be able to focus very accurately. Works very well with my 105 f/2.8. On the other hand a short focal length means that you could set focus on a distant street light (if one is visible) and get sharp stars even at f/2.4 if that light is 100 m or more in the distance.
11-12-2015, 10:40 PM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by Bringass Quote
I need to get a better tripod, but I'm very happy with the results, already bought a K-S2 but haven't arrived yet, I bet the flip screen is going to help with this kind of photos.



Wow! That first one is particularly fantastic
11-12-2015, 11:43 PM   #34
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Thanks you guys,

Do your guys' cameras make an interesting clicking sound when shutter is open in darkness? Mine is making a weird clicking noise and I am wondering if I am on a weird setting that I need to change so that my camera doesn't shake. SR is off. I just want to make photos like Sunvalley's!!!!

11-13-2015, 05:33 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by photographerclare Quote
I just want to make photos like Sunvalley's!!!!
Wow! Thanks! Glad you like them.
But the weird clicking noise doesn't seem right. I have to put my ear right by the camera to hear a very faint "hiss" on my K-30. I would have that checked.
11-19-2015, 12:18 AM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tsuken Quote
Wow! That first one is particularly fantastic
Thank you Tsuken!
11-19-2015, 03:33 PM   #37
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Photographerclare, to get that shot you should do one focused on the branches, another on the stars, and combine in Photoshop or similar.
12-03-2015, 03:59 AM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by photographerclare Quote
Hey guys,

I am a beginner to astrophotography, but I need your help. I have been trying to shoot stars and I cannot get them stable. Im on a k50, but I hear they are quite similar
a little background:
DA 35mm lens, ISO 3200 f2.4, 10 seconds (I think) I use a tripod and remote, NR and SR are both off. I can't get a picture that is completely stable. When I turn my camera to live mode it shakes, so I am thinking there is some setting on that I need to turn off or vice versa. Can anyone help me?!
Some advices was already provided, I will repeat some and add some:
1. incorrect focusing - turn off AF, rotate the focusing ring to the end and then try moving line by line until perfect focus (or at least move a few lines - you should get a better focus even then)
2. Not very stable tripod (seems like moving a bit down while taking photo)
3: especially important if your tripod is not very stable - put on delay. After mirror is opened, the camera shakes a bit for a while, and if tripod is not very good, you will get moving

You could try using some solid thing to put the camera on with same settings (only better focus) and look if it affects move in camera. When I did not have a tripod in the trip, I did some photos by putting the time for 30s (I had 17mm, and no O-GPS or remote with me), and putting the camera on the table - simply the screen was on the table and camera was looking directly up. Even if this won't take the photo of an exact object you want to take photo off, it will allow you to see if the unstable tripod is your problem.

12-18-2015, 03:22 PM   #39
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100stacked photo in DSS. 12.000iso 10sec each
12-27-2015, 01:07 PM   #40
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I've just bought a K-50 and tried some pictures tonight. After an hour outside and some heavy Camera Raw + Photoshop, here's the result:

15'', 18mm, f3.5, ISO1600

12-27-2015, 05:05 PM   #41
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Another one I just captured. Did someone find a good way to use "focus: infinity" on those kit lenses? They don't display any number.

1/4'', 135mm, f22, ISO100
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