[bsamcash]

Hello forum!

First off, thanks for taking the time to read my post.

I have been a Pentax DSLR shooter for a long time. I've owned the K100D, K-x, and K-r. I have always shot RAW and loved how manageable the files were (especially the K-x).

I am mostly a street shooter, so when the Fuji X100 came out, I lusted over it. And about a year ago, I finally bought one. It was an amazing camera in every way. But what surprised me most is how fantastic the JPEGs were, particularly the Standard (Provia) and the Vivid (Velvia). I enjoyed these so much, that I shot JPEG exclusively with the X100. I just couldn't create anything as magical with the RAWs. It was truly just shooting Fujifilm with my Yashica Electro 35 GSM.

But alas, I am a full-time college student also working as a volunteer at a high school, so I have no way to actually earn money, and I have since sold the X100. But there is a happy ending, and I now own a Pentax K-50 which was a Christmas gift, and I love it. Easily the best camera I have owned next to the X100.

So my question is: Does anyone know how to recreate the Fuji Film Simulation profiles in the K-50? I still mainly shoot RAW with it, but I would love that simplicity of gorgeous out-of-camera JPEGs. Just imagine, a Provia look in the normal auto/semi-auto modes, then switch to U1 for Velvia, and U2 for B&W.

Thanks again for any help!

[Canada_Rockies]

It's in the Rec Mode menus. Change the saturation, etc. until you see the effect you want. You can also shoot RAW+ and get both at the same time. The LCD will show the effect, but the RAW files are not modified in any way.

[Na Horuk]

Well, that might be one of the advantages Fuji has (due to its history). Maybe try film reversal or one of the other jpeg modes (you can adjust them, too).
Though, I think people who like the film look usually shoot raw and then use raw editors with film-simulating presets or even addons, like Nik Silver Efex or the one that Topaz labs makes.

[bsamcash]

Well, that might be one of the advantages Fuji has (due to its history). Maybe try film reversal or one of the other jpeg modes (you can adjust them, too).
Though, I think people who like the film look usually shoot raw and then use raw editors with film-simulating presets or even addons, like Nik Silver Efex or the one that Topaz labs makes.

Thanks for the replies Canada_Rockies and Na Horuk.

I have messed around with the settings and came close to what might look close to Velvia (heavy on the magentas and greens). I was just hoping someone here has gotten to it first and found something perfect.

[IchabodCrane]

Thanks for the replies Canada_Rockies and Na Horuk.

I have messed around with the settings and came close to what might look close to Velvia (heavy on the magentas and greens). I was just hoping someone here has gotten to it first and found something perfect.

Glad to hear it. Please share the settings you arrived at.

[hopsing]

Can you explain your settings please?

My JPEG settings (K-30) for a K200D warm color look:
Natural
- Saturation: +1 (+-0 for HighISO, User-Mode 1)
- Hue: -1
- High/Low Key Adj: +-0 (-1 for HighISO, User-Mode 1)
- Contrast +1
- Fine Sharpness -2
- AWB G1, A1

[bsamcash]

Sorry for the late reply, I'm out (shooting ^_^).

Velvia was pretty simple because it's basically an oversaturation of certain hues with a high contrast.

But even still, it's not to perfect, just close to how the Velvia setting looked on the X100.

The settings are:

Vivid
Sat: +4
Hue: -4
High/Low Key: 0
Contrast: +4
Sharpness: 0

Clearly not scientific, but it does have that pop and almost silvery contrast.

Let me know if you have any input!

[Jacquot]

I will try it on my K-30...

[bsamcash]

I will try it on my K-30...

Jacquot, did you give it a try? How did it look? Any ideas to make it better?

[bsamcash]

Here we go. I created a Flickr account just for this post.

Flickr: BSpjut's Photostream

These are all straight out of camera JPEGs using the settings I posted above. As you can see, it is extremely saturated and harsh on skin tones (not unlike Velvia). Though, it seems that maybe the contrast should be turned down maybe to +3 or even +2.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks!

[Jacquot]

Not yet, packed weekend here, but I will this week. Your photos look great on Flickr, although I agree about turning down the contrast. I'll work with mine this week, gives me a good reason to carry it instead of a Fuji in my briefcase.

[asp1880]

Let me know what you guys think.

Excuse me for saying so, but ...

Arrgh, my eyes, my eyes!

That's just over the top for me. Maybe it'd work on more subdued scenes, but those subjects are plenty colourful on their own.

OTOH, I applaud any attempt to make the Vivid colour setting work. It's certainly one of the more extreme ones, even in its base form. I've tried it a number of times, and one thing I think I've learned is that it turnes purple into blue.

Regards,
--Anders.

[OldNoob]

Ah, sigh,, the days of Fuji Reala 100. best film i ever used.

[bsamcash]

Excuse me for saying so, but ...

Arrgh, my eyes, my eyes!

Haha. No offense taken. I want honest input. I do remember Velvia being pretty lurid, but I may have overdone it. I'm going to try again with:

Vivid
Sat: +3
Hue: -4
High/Low Key: 0
Contrast: +2
Sharpness: 0

Ah, sigh,, the days of Fuji Reala 100. best film i ever used.

I'm afraid that most of my experience with this film is expired rolls. But even those looked pretty nice.

[Canada_Rockies]

Perhaps everyone should take a step back and consider WHY there were multiple film types. Velvia was used because it punched up greens and blues, so it was great for landscapes and nature. It was absolutely horrible for portraits. Some didn't even like Velvia for nature because it was so overdone. I loved it, but I used Portra 160 and the like for portraits and weddings.