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03-16-2014, 01:35 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Bertminator Quote
What is your opinion of the older "m" lenses? I have the pentax 50 mm f2.0, pentax 35mm f3.5 and a Pentax 80-200mm f 4.0. Are any of those worth my time using? I was also kicking around the idea of getting the 50-200mm WR lens from Pentax. It's $150.00 CDN, and I was wondering if it's any good?
The old lenses, including the very oldest, do a fine job. There are threads devoted to these types. Here is an example with an old Tacumar 200, hand held, pulling in an airplane ten miles (6 line of sight) away. K5 with an M42 adapter.

[IMG]
[/IMG]


Last edited by arnold; 03-16-2014 at 01:40 AM.
03-16-2014, 02:04 AM   #17
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If you want a bit more reach, a very good quality cheap old manual lens is the K or M135/3.5. Even better is the f2.5 one but that's a lot more expensive typically.
03-16-2014, 04:03 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Bertminator Quote
What is your opinion of the older "m" lenses? I have the pentax 50 mm f2.0, pentax 35mm f3.5 and a Pentax 80-200mm f 4.0.
There are so many series; you can check what users think of specific pentax lenses: Pentax Lenses - Pentax Lens Reviews & Lens Database
Please note that those are subjective opinions and that users might rate in a subjective way (e.g. "I only paid five bucks, so although it's crap I rated it 10")
QuoteOriginally posted by Bertminator Quote
God, I'm ashamed to show them they're so bad. Let me find one worth posting.
The bad ones might be better for advise; but if you missed focus, it's not really useful. Are you sure you missed focus and not used too long shutterspeeds?
03-16-2014, 06:09 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Bertminator Quote
I was also kicking around the idea of getting the 50-200mm WR lens from Pentax. It's $150.00 CDN, and I was wondering if it's any good?
At the top of your screen, just below the Forums logo is a menu list - see "Lenses"? Search here for user reviews on Pentax compatible lenses .... the 50-200 WR is optically the same as the earlier DA 50-200 and DA L 50-200, so those reviews are valid for the WR version. When you do that, you might also want to look at user reviews for the 55-300. I would suggest looking at the reviews for the 18-135 while you are at it.

03-16-2014, 10:23 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by geru2000 Quote
It would be nice if you'd post a couple of Photo examples.

"Blah" is such a subjective term. What do you mean by that?

There are many adjustments you could make to change the initial appearance of the photograph.

Did you use the camera's Auto WB?

Did you use shake reduction?

What adjustments do you have set for noise reduction (ISO), sharpness, noise reduction (slow Shutter Speed)?

Without seeing a photo with the exif it's really difficult to make informed suggestions/recommendations.
Sorry it took so long, I was trying to figure out how to upload a photo, anyway, here's one of the better one's, taken with the 50mm f2.0 lens with Vivitar 2xTeleconverter, manual focus, ISO 25600, 1/125 shutter speed, shake reduction off, & auto white balance. Hope this helps.
03-16-2014, 11:39 PM   #21
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That concert image is badly underexposed which won't help. I've also noticed that AWB doesn't work well with old manual lenses on my K-30 and I wouldn't be surprised if the K-50 is the same. A better lens, correct exposure and a manual WB will make for a lot better results. RAW is easier though once there's WB/lighting colour issues.
03-17-2014, 07:46 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by SteveB Quote
That concert image is badly underexposed which won't help. I've also noticed that AWB doesn't work well with old manual lenses on my K-30 and I wouldn't be surprised if the K-50 is the same. A better lens, correct exposure and a manual WB will make for a lot better results. RAW is easier though once there's WB/lighting colour issues.

I agree, I also noted in the EXIF that the camera's metering mode was set to Center-Weighted instead of Multi-Segment could that be part of the problem with the exposure? Admittedly I don't use Center-Weighted. I see it's also set to Aperture Priority which means the camera is using AUTO ISO you evidently had your upper ISO level in AUTO set pretty high.

Is that a gym or auditorium? Gym light is pretty bad but I've always been able to get a pretty good exposure and WB. On the older cameras shutter speed was the problem and that made the shots look blurry.

I was at my granddaughters recital in a HS auditorium about 40'-50' from the stage. Without moving to the front I couldn't get a decent shot of the chorus other than stage light it was super dark and I was trying to shoot with a 50mm, maybe with a 70-200 2.8 I'd have had a chance.
03-17-2014, 07:55 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by geru2000 Quote
I agree, I also noted in the EXIF that the camera's metering mode was set to Center-Weighted instead of Multi-Segment could that be part of the problem with the exposure? Admittedly I don't use Center-Weighted. I see it's also set to Aperture Priority which means the camera is using AUTO ISO you evidently had your upper ISO level in AUTO set pretty high.
I don't own a K50, but my older camera bodies fall back to center-weighted metering when using a K or M lens. They must also be used in M mode with green button (stop down) metering. Using Av will always result in a wide-open shot.

03-17-2014, 08:01 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by paulh Quote
I don't own a K50, but my older camera bodies fall back to center-weighted metering when using a K or M lens. They must also be used in M mode with green button (stop down) metering. Using Av will always result in a wide-open shot.
I thought that might happen but I've never shot with the older lenses. Thanks for the info
03-17-2014, 08:34 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by geru2000 Quote
you evidently had your upper ISO level in AUTO set pretty high.

Is that a gym or auditorium? Gym light is pretty bad but I've always been able to get a pretty good exposure and WB. On the older cameras shutter speed was the problem and that made the shots look blurry.
Yes I had the ISO set high, mainly because if I didn't the shutter speed was way too low, so It was a compromise (although maybe not a good one), and yes it's a Gym. Concert lights were colored switching from blue to red to yellow, so it was hard to get the lighting just right.
03-17-2014, 07:16 PM   #26
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Judging by the photo Its so dark I would suggest a bounce flash and a decent 135mm. You can light up a really large space at 3200 iso by bouncing off the ceiling or wall

Last edited by Sliver-Surfer; 03-17-2014 at 07:26 PM.
03-17-2014, 09:51 PM   #27
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I see that you had shake reduction off. Turning it on should allow to increase exposure and thus reduce ISO by 2-3 stops, down to 3200.
This camera is pretty good at ISO 3200

Alex
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