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06-01-2014, 09:19 AM   #31
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Guys, need a little help.

I am shooting in broad sunny daylight, but all my pics are coming out dark and under exposed. What gives? Do I have a certain settings incorrect?

I shoot at f5.6, ISO 100, and 35mm focal.

---------- Post added 06-01-14 at 01:10 PM ----------

Some images attached. These are shot with the kit lens.








Last edited by haviet; 06-01-2014 at 10:18 AM.
06-01-2014, 06:01 PM   #32
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If you are shooting in RAW, you could adjust your exposure in PP, and being underexposed is preferable to being overexposed (that's my experience, anyway). You can digitally pull a lot of detail out of the shadows. If you're trying to get better exposures right out of the camera, try changing the metering method to spot or centre-weighted and use AE lock to overcome the bright zones in the scenes you posted. To my eyes, your camera did a great job of exposing the water, but I guess that's not what you wanted. You could use auto bracketing as well, but I found that I could do just as well with PP when I needed it, and otherwise I had a lot of extra pictures on my memory card. In highly reflective scenes, such as a ski hill, I set exposure compensation to at least +2 EV.

Last edited by RGlasel; 06-02-2014 at 04:30 PM.
06-01-2014, 09:20 PM   #33
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Thanks. In the pics above. I used LR5 to increase exposure, otherwise it would have been under exposed. I was using the hood though. Next time I will remove the hood and see what happens.
06-02-2014, 05:57 AM   #34
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Focus?

I set the camera to AF.S. In the menu, I believe I have it set to 5 pt focus, but I am finding this could sometimes be hard to focus on my subject. For example, I took a few shots of the subject in between two poles in the foreground. Instead of focusing on the suject, the camera focuses on the poles instead. Any suggestions?

Thanks

06-02-2014, 06:08 AM   #35
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You need to look at your scene and determine what and how you want to expose for the entire scene. You cannot rely on your camera's metering to be right. Usually what happens in these types of situations your metering and focusing on the brightest part of the scene usually in this case the water area which causes your camera to lower the exposure as to not blow out the highlights and when it does that the rest of the scene may become too dark. This is where you as the photographer need to make decisions as to what would be best overall either through metering on a different part of the scene and locking the exposure, using EV compensation to adjust the exposure, changing your metering type or even using the DR menu settings to compensate for High or Low contrast. Whenever you are not sure of what settings to use then bracketing comes in handy.

Understanding Camera Metering and Exposure

Using Exposure Value (EV) - Digital Photo Secrets


I find it best to leave it mostly on SEL, that way you select what your focus point is. Using spot focus usually is good for photographing a subject in dense cover. AFS is for non moving subjects in a still scene , AFC is for use when you are in situations where your subject is either moving or may move. Another food for thought is moving your AF to the AF/AEL button on the back and turning it off for the shutter. That is a great way to lock your focus and not have it refocus because you let up on your shutter.


Last edited by Oldbayrunner; 06-02-2014 at 06:38 AM.
06-02-2014, 06:26 AM   #36
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Thanks Oldbayrunner

I have, and did read the Understanding Exposure book by Bryant Patterson. In this book, he usually point this camera at either the sky or water to lock the exposure. I guess I will give his method a try and see what my results look like.

You mean in the camera menu, set Focusing to SEL? Hmm...now I need to pull out the menu and see where that is at.
06-02-2014, 06:52 AM   #37
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That would be Select Focus, which is the setting with all of the dots showing, It can be accessed either through the menu or by using the info button menu.Then you use the arrow buttons to select your focus point or just keep it in the center, un-highlight it and use the back focus to lock on whatever you want in focus. I will mention if your use this selection you will need to depress the OK button to switch from using the arrow buttons to select the focus points or having access to your arrow Mode selections.
06-02-2014, 08:05 AM   #38
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Thanks,

Can you provide any feedback on Multi Segement metering with the Pentax. In the past, I usually shoot with Center Weighted metering.

Is Multi Segment more accurate with Pentax?

06-02-2014, 11:31 AM - 1 Like   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by haviet Quote
Thanks,

Can you provide any feedback on Multi Segement metering with the Pentax. In the past, I usually shoot with Center Weighted metering.

Is Multi Segment more accurate with Pentax?
Camera metering modes explained
06-02-2014, 01:05 PM   #40
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Thanks. That was a very good read.
06-02-2014, 04:33 PM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by haviet Quote
I was using the hood
You got a hood with your kit lens? I didn't get no hood with my stinking kit lens! If you have one, leave it on, as long as its shadow doesn't appear in the frame. Nothing good comes from stray light hitting the exposure meter.
06-02-2014, 05:41 PM   #42
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Yes. The hood came with my camera kit. Ok, I''ll keep it on. I was thinking the hood might have prevented full light entering the lens and caused my pics to be under exposed. Lol
06-02-2014, 07:30 PM   #43
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The 18-55mm WR kit lenses with the K30's I see now are selling with the metal mount DA L lens which includes the Hood. The one for my K50 was the plastic mount and didn't include a hood either.
06-03-2014, 10:38 PM   #44
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In LR, there are other camera correction presets available but you are correct, Embedded and Standard come pre installed and they do change in RAW. If you google it, you will find others. I have the following set up:


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I check each when processing to see how they look but on average, I use Standard as it does look the best.


As far as exposure, evaluative seems to be the best but there are many times when I use spot metering with a bright situation which is backlit. I think your pics with the ducks show center weighted but it would be much better in this situation in evaluative. You can always use exposure adjustment and of course make any change you want post processing in LR.


The K-30 is a great camera. I consider upgrading to a K-5II or a K-3 but I guess I am too happy to move on from it yet.

Last edited by JimC1101; 06-03-2014 at 10:47 PM.
06-04-2014, 07:36 AM   #45
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Thanks.

I will be trying Multi Segment metering and SEL focusing this weekend.
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