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06-19-2014, 09:25 PM   #31
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Thanks for the tips guyz.

@elpolodiablo, I believe PP means portrait photography?

Also am planning for a cruise trip this weekend and am not sure if prime (DA 50 f1.8) or my 18-135mm WR lens will prove to be more suitable for the location. I have read on the manual that 18-135mm WR lens is sharpest at 35mm f1.8. Have not tested it out yet

The below are the books that I use for reference.
1) Understanding exposure - 3rd edition - Bryan Peterson
2) Tony Northrup's DSLR Book: How to Create Stunning Digital Photography
3) On-Camera Flash Techniques for Digital Wedding and Portrait Photography

I also watch lot of you tube videos and practise different exposures on my camera when ever I could.

06-19-2014, 10:36 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by jaikumarr18 Quote
Thanks for the tips guyz.

@elpolodiablo, I believe PP means portrait photography?

Also am planning for a cruise trip this weekend and am not sure if prime (DA 50 f1.8) or my 18-135mm WR lens will prove to be more suitable for the location. I have read on the manual that 18-135mm WR lens is sharpest at 35mm f1.8. Have not tested it out yet

The below are the books that I use for reference.
1) Understanding exposure - 3rd edition - Bryan Peterson
2) Tony Northrup's DSLR Book: How to Create Stunning Digital Photography
3) On-Camera Flash Techniques for Digital Wedding and Portrait Photography

I also watch lot of you tube videos and practise different exposures on my camera when ever I could.
No, it means Post Processing, using either Lightroom(my preference) Photoshop or DXO or whatever software you prefer to edit your image.

And I am a bit confused by your statement about the 18-135WR being sharpest at 35mm f1.8, that lens doesn't have f1.8 aperture at any focal length....If you are on a cruise I'd say just keep the 18-135 on all the time for convenience, only use the 50 1.8 for low light.
06-20-2014, 04:42 AM   #33
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Apologies. It's f8 at 35mm.
06-20-2014, 07:10 AM   #34
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As noted previously exposure is a little off, but nothing a bit of PPing can't remedy.... To me the bigger issue is composition. Subject is dead centre of a landscape orientation photo, and this is the biggest issue (to me and surprised nobody else has mentioned it).

Hope you don't mind, but here is my PP'd version.

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06-20-2014, 04:42 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by dcBear78 Quote
here is my PP'd version
Hey, dcBear78 - very nice! I like your result here and I believe it is a handsome photo. It provides a solid illustration about the effectiveness of post processing.
06-20-2014, 07:19 PM   #36
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That is indeed a great PP although my complexion is bit darker than this . Thanks dcBear7. Also the reason I used center point spot focus was to check if it provides any advantage over focus when compared to the ones on the edge. I believe out of 11 focus points, 9 are cross type and I read some article stating the center one provides bit superiority over the others in terms of focus. Hence was testing that.
06-20-2014, 07:50 PM   #37
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I don't mind the light one bit and, to me, thats an ok exposure. ( everything you need for pp is there). Here's a 1 click PS adjustment (auto tone) and a different crop.

Last edited by DeepThrob; 01-28-2015 at 08:56 PM.
06-20-2014, 08:03 PM   #38
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I am going to throw this out there simply for the very first lesson. Understand the "exposure" is key. All the lessons are well presented and will help, but the first... just that will make a huge difference.

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06-20-2014, 09:28 PM   #39
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I never had a problem with the all the focus points. I use selective focus and will move the point around to the one I want to compose my image. That and using the "Perfect Focus Every Time" technique means I get the shot I want more often than not.

edit: added a link to the thread.

Last edited by dcBear78; 06-20-2014 at 09:56 PM.
06-20-2014, 09:47 PM   #40
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The kit you are using now is my idea of a near pro kit. I could do a lot with that, grin, but then again I've had a lot of training. You have what you need and it's a very good kit. Time to worry less about the gear and more about learning to use it. May I suggest you check out Creative Live, the Kelby site or the Lynda.com one? Some of it is paid, but there is some free stuff too, and IMHO they have a lot that is well worth the watch.
06-20-2014, 10:02 PM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by jaikumarr18 Quote
I believe out of 11 focus points, 9 are cross type and I read some article stating the center one provides bit superiority over the others in terms of focus. Hence was testing that.
Technically the center point is better, but not enough to make it worth composing your photos poorly. Unless of course you prefer to do most of your cropping in PP (I don't - for a typical event I'll only crop maybe 2-3% of my photos later. That's just my style and personal choice of compromises - if anything I need to further reduce my time spent PP, not add to it!).
06-21-2014, 03:28 AM   #42
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Thanks DSims. I don't like to spend too much of time on PP either but again, when I compared jpeg from camera to the PP from RAW, I had to go with RAW all the way.
06-21-2014, 06:04 AM   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by DSims Quote
Technically the center point is better, but not enough to make it worth composing your photos poorly. Unless of course you prefer to do most of your cropping in PP (I don't - for a typical event I'll only crop maybe 2-3% of my photos later. That's just my style and personal choice of compromises - if anything I need to further reduce my time spent PP, not add to it!).
Question; is all of your work for web? Reason I ask is with usually with an initial HQ 16:9 ratio I find it takes more than a 2-3% crop for 11 x14, 8X10, 4x6 or 5x7 standard prints.
06-21-2014, 01:03 PM   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by jaikumarr18 Quote
Thanks DSims. I don't like to spend too much of time on PP either but again, when I compared jpeg from camera to the PP from RAW, I had to go with RAW all the way.
PP on RAW really enhances the results when you have the time.

QuoteOriginally posted by Oldbayrunner Quote
Question; is all of your work for web? Reason I ask is with usually with an initial HQ 16:9 ratio I find it takes more than a 2-3% crop for 11 x14, 8X10, 4x6 or 5x7 standard prints.
I don't pay much attention to this (though maybe I should); I have 2 4:3 monitors and have had 16:10 (and still do on a secondary computer), so in my mind there should be no 16:9 and I ignore it. It's generally a stupid ratio outside of watching movies, IMO (though of course even 21:9 has its applications).

I figure if it didn't bother you enough to avoid 16:9 in the first place then I shouldn't worry about it for you either. And I use my 4:3 iPad much more than my Samsung tablet, so I suppose I'm unsympathetic there as well!

Last edited by DSims; 06-21-2014 at 01:11 PM.
06-21-2014, 08:07 PM   #45
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Be glad that you are only missing the wow factor with your K30....... my K5II told me the other day it's missing the wow factor with me....!

Your camera talks to you...right?
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