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08-23-2014, 07:14 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by boriscleto Quote
Allowing AutoISO in M mode is a bug that Pentax has never fixed. It was implemented on the K-01 to allow a pseudo-TAv mode. When the firmware was used for the K-30 and K-50/500 they didn't change it. All other Pentax DSLRs switch to manual ISO automatically when the dial is set to M.
Wait. So uhmmm on my K-50 basically I got a Manual mode with Auto ISO (TAv) and a Manual mode capable of using Auto ISO (M)? That's weird.

Well, at lease I got one extra mode to hold my custom settings
I also assigned the Tv shift to the green button in M. I guess I'll use M mode for manual lenses only and TAv mode for my kit lens.

08-23-2014, 07:17 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by whk1992 Quote
Wait. So uhmmm on my K-50 basically I got a Manual mode with Auto ISO (TAv) and a Manual mode capable of using Auto ISO (M)? That's weird.

Well, at lease I got one extra mode to hold my custom settings
I also assigned the Tv shift to the green button in M. I guess I'll use M mode for manual lenses only and TAv mode for my kit lens.
The other difference is TAv mode doesn't work with manual lenses that don't have the A setting. You can set the shutter speed but the aperture will always be wide open.
08-23-2014, 07:22 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by boriscleto Quote
The other difference is TAv mode doesn't work with manual lenses that don't have the A setting. You can set the shutter speed but the aperture will always be wide open.
Crap my bad. When I said manual lens I meant my A50/1.7.

I just tried out the TAv mode with my A50/1.7, and it seems working
08-23-2014, 07:25 PM   #19
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Thanks, I just now picked up my K-30 to get used to it a few days ago. The operating manual says that if the exposure mode dial is set to M, and the ISO is set to auto, the camera operates in TAv mode. I am still learning. One of the great things about Pentax cameras is that you can go a long time with them and still find something new that you have not experimented with before. In my case, going from a K-r to a K-30 is a small but pleasant learning curve.

When I had my K-r (which I just now gave to my daughter for college classes), I would shoot in Av & auto focus for the quick shots like groups that were usually on the go (high school, college kids). But I also did many, many shots in manual mode, manual focus as candids for that same crowd. I generally set my ISO to 200 and occasionally 400 for most things. Sometimes going to ISO 100 in full sun or for macro. Still experimenting with Tv or TAv. Maybe someone else can help out with better info about Tv/TAv.

By the way, you can get great shots with the kit lens using manual exposure and focus. Just practice adjusting your shutter speed, ISO, and aperture settings with/without the flash. My most-used setting for the pop-up flash is -2. Sometimes -1. Never full flash. But that's just me. Hope some of this helps.

08-23-2014, 07:31 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by timmijo Quote
Thanks, I just now picked up my K-30 to get used to it a few days ago. The operating manual says that if the exposure mode dial is set to M, and the ISO is set to auto, the camera operates in TAv mode. I am still learning. One of the great things about Pentax cameras is that you can go a long time with them and still find something new that you have not experimented with before. In my case, going from a K-r to a K-30 is a small but pleasant learning curve.

When I had my K-r (which I just now gave to my daughter for college classes), I would shoot in Av & auto focus for the quick shots like groups that were usually on the go (high school, college kids). But I also did many, many shots in manual mode, manual focus as candids for that same crowd. I generally set my ISO to 200 and occasionally 400 for most things. Sometimes going to ISO 100 in full sun or for macro. Still experimenting with Tv or TAv. Maybe someone else can help out with better info about Tv/TAv.

By the way, you can get great shots with the kit lens using manual exposure and focus. Just practice adjusting your shutter speed, ISO, and aperture settings with/without the flash. My most-used setting for the pop-up flash is -2. Sometimes -1. Never full flash. But that's just me. Hope some of this helps.
Yesterday, I was testing my new camera, and I didn't even bother to carry the kit lens with me. I'm not saying it's a bad lens --- I just don't want to fiddle with the zoom ring with I don't need to. It's basically a distraction when I don't need zoom for the day. Of course, I could set the zoom to a fixed position and don't touch it, but why would I bring the kit lens when I have a much more compact prime?

Flash. That's something I never master, mostly because I almost never shoot with flash. I seldom take portraits or indoor shootings.

---------- Post added 08-23-14 at 07:32 PM ----------

And you're right about learning new features everyday. I skimmed through all the sub-menus, and decided to give up on reading the whole operation manual in a night.
08-23-2014, 07:34 PM   #21
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In a nutshell: Av Mode = User sets f-stop (Aperture Value) for desired Depth of Field, camera picks shutter speed, and ISO if Auto ISO is on
Tv Mode = User sets Shutter Speed (Time Value) to control motion, camera sets aperture, and ISO if Auto ISO is on
TAv Mode = User sets desired Aperture AND Shutter speed (Time, Aperture Value), camera chooses ISO value, This allows you to control both DOF AND motion.


I believe Pentax are the only camera's with TAv Mode!

Last edited by Al_Kahollick; 08-23-2014 at 08:19 PM.
08-23-2014, 07:42 PM   #22
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That was so concise and very helpful.

About the flash: It makes a great "fill flash" if you are shooting outdoors in strong light. I primarily use it to illuminate my macro subjects if the sun is strong. Also, for people outdoors (or even animals or birds), a little fill flash goes a long way, hence the -2 setting.

For macros, if I use flash, I almost always use an interfit diffuser, like this one: Strobies Small On-Camera Diffuser
08-23-2014, 07:52 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by timmijo Quote
That was so concise and very helpful.

About the flash: It makes a great "fill flash" if you are shooting outdoors in strong light. I primarily use it to illuminate my macro subjects if the sun is strong. Also, for people outdoors (or even animals or birds), a little fill flash goes a long way, hence the -2 setting.

For macros, if I use flash, I almost always use an interfit diffuser, like this one: Strobies Small On-Camera Diffuser
I thought about using flash, but the shutter would be limited to 1/180s. Yesterday, the sky was way too bright for 1/180s if I want to use f/2.0 even with ISO100. I ended up taking the shot at another angle to avoid glares from the spider: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/12-post-your-photos/271097-nature-lazy-sp...ting-food.html (Warning, don't open if you hate bugs)

The photo with shines on the spider: https://flic.kr/p/oSMpxh

The diffuser looks interesting! I'll definitely look into it.

08-23-2014, 07:53 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by timmijo Quote
That was so concise and very helpful.

About the flash: It makes a great "fill flash" if you are shooting outdoors in strong light. I primarily use it to illuminate my macro subjects if the sun is strong. Also, for people outdoors (or even animals or birds), a little fill flash goes a long way, hence the -2 setting.

For macros, if I use flash, I almost always use an interfit diffuser, like this one: Strobies Small On-Camera Diffuser

Keep in mind, your flash is also useful to stop motion, especially when shooting bugs which never seem to stay still long enough, or flowers on a breezy day, etc......
08-23-2014, 08:02 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Al_Kahollick Quote
Keep in mind, your flash is also useful to stop motion, especially when shooting bugs which never seem to stay still long enough, or flowers on a breezy day, etc......
I was lucky. The spider was waiting for food and stayed without moving. Wind was blowing the web, but it was bright enough that I don't have to worry about blurry shots.
08-23-2014, 08:11 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by whk1992 Quote
I was lucky. The spider was waiting for food and stayed without moving. Wind was blowing the web, but it was bright enough that I don't have to worry about blurry shots.

But it IS a bit soft / blurry. When doing macro / close focus shooting, depth of field gets shallower the closer you get, at f2.0, it's paper thin. Stopping down will help you get sharper pics and allow using the flash to freeze the subject if needed.


Just my 2-cents!
08-23-2014, 08:17 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by Al_Kahollick Quote
But it IS a bit soft / blurry. When doing macro / close focus shooting, depth of field gets shallower the closer you get, at f2.0, it's paper thin. Stopping down will help you get sharper pics and allow using the flash to freeze the subject if needed.


Just my 2-cents!
I blame that on lack of experience in using MF lens
08-23-2014, 08:32 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by whk1992 Quote
I blame that on lack of experience in using MF lens

Aperture plays an important role as well. Here's an example, Keep in mind, I'm just throwing numbers out to make a point, the differences are merely an example of the principle.


Say you focus on a ruler laying on a table from a 45 degree angle, you focus on the 6, at f2, ONLY the 6 is in focus, at 5.6, perhaps you can see from 5.5 to 6.75 inches, at f11, you can see clearly from say 4.75 to 8 inches. See what I 'm getting at here?? The closer you get to the ruler, the less will be in focus at any given aperture. Shooting at f2 is fine for portraits, or to separate a subject from the background, but not so much for macro work unless you intend to do focus stacking.


But that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!
08-23-2014, 08:35 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by Al_Kahollick Quote
Aperture plays an important role as well. Here's an example, Keep in mind, I'm just throwing numbers out to make a point, the differences are merely an example of the principle.


Say you focus on a ruler laying on a table from a 45 degree angle, you focus on the 6, at f2, ONLY the 6 is in focus, at 5.6, perhaps you can see from 5.5 to 6.75 inches, at f11, you can see clearly from say 4.75 to 8 inches. See what I 'm getting at here?? The closer you get to the ruler, the less will be in focus at any given aperture. Shooting at f2 is fine for portraits, or to separate a subject from the background, but not so much for macro work unless you intend to do focus stacking.


But that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!
Ah. I see what you're saying and I agree with that. In fact, I feel like the background of my spider shot was way to blurry it became boring, because I feel like nothing is in the background at all!
08-24-2014, 04:11 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by whk1992 Quote
Ah. I see what you're saying and I agree with that. In fact, I feel like the background of my spider shot was way to blurry it became boring, because I feel like nothing is in the background at all!

A blurred background can help your subject stand out, but that subject needs to be sharp. Check out Timmijo's shot of the dragonfly (Green Dragonfly - Pentax User Photo Gallery), it was made at f8, but because she's close to the subject, the entire dragonfly is sharp, yet the background is blurred helping it to stand out even more. Had she used f2, only a small portion of the dragonfly would be sharp, and it would blend in with the background, much like your spider shot.


Try it yourself, shoot the same object from the same distance, not re-focusing, and changing only the aperture, and you'll see what I mean.


The more you "experiment", the more you'll learn and the more your photos will improve!


Hope this helps, Photography is a great hobby, have fun with it!!
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