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11-08-2014, 08:07 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikshyle Quote
Thank you, I am pleased compared to what I used to get when trying to shoot night time with my sx-40 nothing but blur. Just want those clear faces.... And yes I will be looking for that faster lense ! But thanks for the critique
..."those clear faces" probably come from professional sport photographers with lenses in the thousands...
A Sigma 300mm f/2.8 EX DG for Pentax costs more than 3k$...

11-08-2014, 08:34 AM   #17
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I hear ya !!!
11-08-2014, 10:32 AM   #18
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The third one catches my eye as you had the right idea there. All in all a good effort for a very challenging task, both technically and skills wise. Shooting fast moving team sports (day or night) is about the toughest photography I know, and I've been doing this for decades.

Definitely you will need to spend a fair chunk of money for a faster lens and then practice technique. It seems obvious that 1/750-1/1000 is a better goal for shutter.

This new thread showing off the new Canon 7D MKII (with a 400mm f2.8 lens) is only offered for inspiration.

M
11-08-2014, 12:54 PM   #19
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@ Miguel, I like your chose of words "Showing off" lol those are AWESOME shots. Now Im really depressed
I dont even want to know what that equipment goes for !!

11-08-2014, 01:09 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikshyle Quote
Now Im really depressed
I dont even want to know what that equipment goes for !!
I was afraid that would happen The gear only accounts for a proportion of the quality you see. The rest is the shooter's skill of reading the game and timing the shots. That's not easy and can take years to develop. The older the kids get, the faster the game, the tougher the job.

But it's sports!

M
11-08-2014, 05:57 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Miguel Quote
is only offered for inspiration.
Interesting shots.

If he's only doing 10000 ISO whilst still holding 1/800, even at f2.8, the grounds can hardly be called 'poorly lit', or a 'cave', as he describes the venue.

He should try shooting night-time events at small country town sports fields to fully understand 'poorly lit'
11-08-2014, 06:12 PM   #22
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I don't think you have much chance to get clean shots in open field at night without a decent fast lens and the reach. With your k-50 the best lens in this situation would be the DA*50-135 f2.8 and shoot in TAV mode with aperture around f2.8-4 and speed at 1/350 or faster.... hope you have better luck next time.
11-08-2014, 11:47 PM - 1 Like   #23
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Fast, long and reasonable price in Pentax AF are words that don't fit together all that well. Even if you're allowed close to the sideline, the 135mm isn't going to give you enough reach. Given the low light capability of the K50, I think the 60-250 f/4 can work because the lens is just fine wide open, but you might not view $1,300 as terribly reasonable for your needs. Really, the only good under-$1,000 option is the Tamron 70-200 f/2.8. Around $770 new, less if bought used - and commonly available.

The main reason I still have Canon is that I can shoot an excellent 200 f/2.8 lens in these situations, and takes a teleconverter very nicely because the optics are beyond superb. Priced about the same as the Tamron zoom, and you get better AF speed with Canon. However, the sensors are not competitive at high ISO, and no stabilization. So, pick your poison I guess.

Whatever you do, I hope you're using a decent monopod. That's required for low light action shooting.

11-09-2014, 07:29 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by ScooterMaxi Jim Quote
the only good under-$1,000 option is the Tamron 70-200 f/2.8.
I agree. If you can, find one of those. It's a very sharp, bright lens. Put it on a monopod, use TAV, let auto-ISO float up to ISO 6400, set aperture to wide open, shutter speed to 1/250 or higher, [plus don't forget to use the hood and leave any UV filter off ], get close to the action along the side-lines if possible, and you should be able to do some awesome shots.

Even with top-notch gear, however, low-light telephoto sports shooting is about as challenging as you can get. Practice, experience - and luck - are required as much as great gear.
11-09-2014, 09:39 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by ScooterMaxi Jim Quote
Fast, long and reasonable price in Pentax AF are words that don't fit together all that well. Even if you're allowed close to the sideline, the 135mm isn't going to give you enough reach. Given the low light capability of the K50, I think the 60-250 f/4 can work because the lens is just fine wide open, but you might not view $1,300 as terribly reasonable for your needs. Really, the only good under-$1,000 option is the Tamron 70-200 f/2.8.*snip*
I had my sights set on an auction on ebay myself... then the seller also put up a "buy it now" with the 17-50 f/2.8 and the 70-200 f/2.8 for 500 Euros... it went away in a couple of hours...
I'm afraid I won't find that good a price anytime soon...
11-09-2014, 09:40 AM   #26
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It isn't impossible to go a cheaper route if you are willing to try manual focus, and possibly work in Catch-in-Focus. I have the option of shooting a Tokina 100-300 f/4 I picked up for $160 - and the used AF versions of that lens are also quite decent - much better than the slower Tokina zooms that extend to 400. It just isn't ideal to shoot at f/4, obviously. Manual focus at football games isn't as hard as it seems once you get the knack of it. The only sport I find impossible to manual focus is soccer. Very hard even with AF!
11-09-2014, 06:52 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by ScooterMaxi Jim Quote
It isn't impossible to go a cheaper route if you are willing to try manual focus, and possibly work in Catch-in-Focus. I have the option of shooting a Tokina 100-300 f/4 I picked up for $160 - and the used AF versions of that lens are also quite decent - much better than the slower Tokina zooms that extend to 400. It just isn't ideal to shoot at f/4, obviously. Manual focus at football games isn't as hard as it seems once you get the knack of it. The only sport I find impossible to manual focus is soccer. Very hard even with AF!
How right you are! I'd not get a single shot in focus at the kids soccer if I did not have AF!
11-10-2014, 10:20 AM   #28
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Ok, So someone mentioned using the hood.... I forgot to put the hood on when I shot that game. I had the shutter speed set at 1/500 but at some point it ended up at 1/200 in the end half of my pics didnt realize it changed. Would those things made much of difference in the quality of the pics? If I had, say the 55-300 and was able zoom in closer with out having to crop like I did the pics that I took, would that have given me any more clarity at all? One last ? What is the difference in DA and DA* ?
11-10-2014, 10:34 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikshyle Quote
Ok, So someone mentioned using the hood.... I forgot to put the hood on when I shot that game. I had the shutter speed set at 1/500 but at some point it ended up at 1/200 in the end half of my pics didnt realize it changed. Would those things made much of difference in the quality of the pics? If I had, say the 55-300 and was able zoom in closer with out having to crop like I did the pics that I took, would that have given me any more clarity at all? One last ? What is the difference in DA and DA* ?
Lens hood is mainly useful in order to avoid lens flare if you have lights pointing directly at your camera, or at an angle.
If you see no flare and contrast is good then you're A-ok.

1/500 to 1/200s OTOH makes a world of difference, especially with moving subjects...
11-10-2014, 11:26 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by LensBeginner Quote
Lens hood is mainly useful in order to avoid lens flare if you have lights pointing directly at your camera, or at an angle.
Exactly. The angle of the lights doesn't need to be anywhere near direct.

A hood frees you from the risk of flare, and really has no down-side.

Flare robs your lens of contrast, which can impact image quality and also make AF less effective, since AF relies on contrast too. Flare is also a big pain to try and clean up in post-processing.

For night time sports shooting, your camera needs all the help it can get, and using a hood is just about the simplest thing you can do. A hood can also, of course, help keep dust and crud and finger-prints away from your front element. Another bonus.
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