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11-18-2014, 02:31 AM   #16
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Oh yes, and post processing! There are some good anti-noise programs like Topaz Denoize, Noise Ninja and others.. as well as the built-in NR of almost any software.
Finally, if you edit the file a lot, particularly if you increase exposure/brightness, saturation, sharpness, you will make the noise more prominent.

11-18-2014, 02:38 AM   #17
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I set it to the maximum the sensor allows. Better to get a shot than nothing at all. Sometimes ISO 12800 surprises.
Every other tog in the pit walked away shaking their heads when these were taken.

Mark Lanegan band (really dark):



Mumford and Sons (really, really dark):

11-18-2014, 06:25 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sandy Hancock Quote
set it to the maximum the sensor allows. Better to get a shot than nothing at all.
zackly.

It was so dark, the goalie couldn't see the ball but I got the shot ;~)


Last edited by dadipentak; 11-18-2014 at 06:36 AM.
11-22-2014, 10:01 AM   #19
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While my TAv range is typically set at 3200 maximum, I view the issue as extremely variable. Generally, in very dim light shooting a scene that is static, you want to keep your ISO lower if possible and lower shutter speed accordingly. Once you go past 1600, the hard-wired noise reduction starts to really show up and you lose considerable detail. In good light where you need a higher shutter speed (typically shooting sports), you'll be amazed at how good the quality remains even at 6400. I wouldn't venture past that ISO, though.

Oddly enough, I found out about this while shooting with the Q - and by mistake. I had left the ISO at 1250 by mistake and took some outdoors shots in the late afternoon. As you can imagine that ISO typically is pretty darn marginal for that sensor, but in good light you can still get a pretty decent result - as you can see here:
Name:  DogPark-0111w.jpg
Views: 226
Size:  799.8 KB


Last edited by ScooterMaxi Jim; 11-22-2014 at 04:34 PM.
11-22-2014, 03:23 PM - 1 Like   #20
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I went to a night airshow in June, this was taken in pitch black in TAV set at 1/125 at f5.6. The iso was 25600. It's not a great picture, but I got the shot! with a little help from Dfine2!

Tuggie76

Last edited by tuggie76; 02-02-2015 at 02:42 PM.
12-09-2014, 11:37 AM - 1 Like   #21
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ISO speed for K30 Pentaxc

I did testing of my K30 mounted on a tripod of resolution charts taped to my garage door. I used a medium f stop. ISO 100, 200, 400, 800 & 1600 all gave the same resolution level. The 100 to 800 looked similar the 1600 looked much poorer even though the same lines could be resolved. ISO 3200 & 6400 fell off in resolution in addition to looking worse in other respects. I did not try ISO 12800 as I maxed out the shutter speed at this f stop.
Shooting at ISO 800 max should be ok with auto ISO setting. Shooting at ISO 800 manual can be a problem when you forget to reset it when you get to brighter light & end up with f stop 13.5 or smaller with diffraction limiting resolution & every spec of dust on the sensor showing up in clear areas.


I shot pictures in the cave in Mammoth Cave National Park, no flash, tripod or monopod allowed, often not even time to stop to take picture, I had no choice but to let in go to ISO 12800 even with the f/2.4 lens.


Dean Sturgis
12-09-2014, 11:45 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuggie76 Quote
I went to a night airshow in June, this was taken in pitch black in TAV set at 1/125 at f5.6. The iso was 25600. It's not a great picture, but I got the shot! with a little help from Dfine2!

Tuggie76
It is not a matter of whether you get the shot or not (you will get the shot anyway), your shot will likely look better if your iso limit was set little lower in the ISO range, say 6400.
12-09-2014, 02:17 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by aleonx3 Quote
It is not a matter of whether you get the shot or not (you will get the shot anyway), your shot will likely look better if your iso limit was set little lower in the ISO range, say 6400.
But surely I would end up with more blur? 5.6 was the best my lens would do and a slower shutter speed would create motion blur, it was almost impossible to track the plane in that light.

Tuggie76

12-09-2014, 04:15 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuggie76 Quote
But surely I would end up with more blur? 5.6 was the best my lens would do and a slower shutter speed would create motion blur, it was almost impossible to track the plane in that light.

Tuggie76
I don't think you get it (pun intended) .... what is wrong with the photo is that you over-exposed.. keep the same shutter speed or even faster but limit the ISO range to max 6400; you will get the better shot - alternatively you can use spot meter or EV...

Last edited by aleonx3; 12-09-2014 at 04:20 PM.
12-10-2014, 07:42 PM   #25
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Count me among the more conservative, I guess, as I use 800 as the upper auto limit. I don't like noise. My teenaged daughter mocks me because I won't take photos with a cell phone, but I insist on sticking to my curmudgeonly standards.
12-11-2014, 04:15 AM   #26
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As others said, it really depends on what you are shooting. For snaps of my kids, iso 6400 is my usual max. On the other hand, if I am shooting landscapes, I try not to go over iso 800 and will do exposure bracketing or use a tripod if necessary.

But high isos do clean up decently and if all else fails, can make good black and white photos.
12-12-2014, 03:04 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by aleonx3 Quote
what is wrong with the photo is that you over-exposed
This is an extreme situation for dynamic range, trying to find the right balance between exposing the airframe and the lights is going to be a problem regardless of how you meter it, and unlike static scenery, there isn't the same opportunity to use bracketing. If given the choice between blowing out powered lights or not registering the parts that only have reflected light to illuminate them, I'll take overexposing the light bulbs every time. Our eyes do exactly the same thing.
12-12-2014, 03:24 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by RGlasel Quote
This is an extreme situation for dynamic range, trying to find the right balance between exposing the airframe and the lights is going to be a problem regardless of how you meter it, and unlike static scenery, there isn't the same opportunity to use bracketing. If given the choice between blowing out powered lights or not registering the parts that only have reflected light to illuminate them, I'll take overexposing the light bulbs every time. Our eyes do exactly the same thing.
Well said! If I could have thought of that I would have said that. The thing is as well, the camera chose the exposure, I just pionted in the right direction, as you say, there was no time for bracketing or chimping to get a better exposure. Maybe if I go again this summer I'll try limiting the ISO and see what happens

Tuggie76
12-12-2014, 04:58 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuggie76 Quote
Well said! If I could have thought of that I would have said that. The thing is as well, the camera chose the exposure, I just pionted in the right direction, as you say, there was no time for bracketing or chimping to get a better exposure. Maybe if I go again this summer I'll try limiting the ISO and see what happens

Tuggie76
I don't think you get it.. it is not about bracketing it or not... the metering was wrong given the situation, limiting your iso would save you from over-exposed. Never mind, the point being that they allow you to set the range for auto-iso for good reasons.

Last edited by aleonx3; 12-12-2014 at 05:25 PM.
12-12-2014, 05:27 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by aleonx3 Quote
I don't think you get it.. it is not about bracketing it or not... the metering was wrong given the situation, limiting your iso would save you from over-exposed. Never mind, the point being that they allow you to set the range for auto-iso for good reasons.
But how would I know what to limit it too? To low and underexposed, too high wouldn't matter I guess.

Tuggie76
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