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02-16-2015, 07:13 AM   #16
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Well i did a little shooting last night of my granddaughter and could not get what i am looking for. I used my DA 35mm f2.4, this is the fastest lens with a short enough focal length to get close up to her. On program, "little child moving in low light" all i got was sand stone kid, ISO was at 6400. I like the ISO at 800 max this gives me the sharpness i wan't, f2.4 and 1/30 shutter speed. Anything slower and she or i move and it blur city. At those settings the pictures are underexposed and have to be corrected on photo software, The flash is out, its like a nuclear blast! i am not sure what to do besides drop a ton of money on a faster lens

02-16-2015, 07:15 AM   #17
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Here is a shot i took last night.
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02-16-2015, 08:31 AM - 1 Like   #18
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Do you have a flash that can bounce? Also when using the on camera flash - try setting the flash compensation to -1 or even -1.3/-1.7 etc.
Additionally there are DIY modifiers you can use on your onboard flash to make it softer and more diffused.
02-16-2015, 08:52 AM - 1 Like   #19
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Kim,

I'm going to echo what UncleVanya posted above. Your problem is not with the lens but with the lighting. There isn't enough of it so your images are either dark and sharp from using a fast shutter speed or light and blurry from a slow shutter speed. I have two kids and they vibrate and buzz like little bees. They are never still - even when you think they are! Fast shutter speeds and good light are an absolute must. You mentioned your dislike for the on-camera flash and I agree that it is not always ideal. It can be nuclear-bright but you can dial it down in the camera. Check the manual. If that's still too bright for you then that's where a good bounce flash, diffuser flash, or even off camera flash could help you a lot. I would seriously consider one of those options.

If flash isn't your thing look into small and portable artificial lighting. You can get a small LED ring to hold in your hand. They are typically used for macro applications but they also work great off of the lens too. I have a Polaroid branded unit but I think it comes under different names too.

Amazon.com : Polaroid 48 Macro LED Ring Flash & Light Includes 4 Diffusers (Clear, Warming, Blue, White) For The Canon, Nikon, Panasonic, Olympus, Pentax SLR Cameras (Will Fit 49, 52, 55, 58, 62, 67, 72, 77mm Lenses) : On Camera Macro And Ringlight F

You can see that it has a lighting function (turns on and stays on) and you can adjust the intensity. As an off camera, off angle source it's OK and shouldn't be terribly bright for young eyes.

Your lenses are just fine. Your lighting ... well, you know.

02-16-2015, 09:47 AM - 1 Like   #20
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you will not need to drop a ton of money if you would get a e. g. smc pentax a 50 1.7. (A better option could be the FA 50 1.4 has af and is faster, but more expensive.) You should be able to get one fairly cheap and it would already help. But you might want to consider a diffuser for your on camera flash to...
02-16-2015, 10:45 AM   #21
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The only "down side" to a faster lens is the shallower depth of field. At f/1.4 you won't seemingly get much in focus, especially with a moving baby. By the time you focus on the eyes she will probably rock backwards and only the nose will be crisp - if that. Shooting at f/1.4 has its merits but I wouldn't apply it to kid photography. I would use f/1.4 for a soft and beautiful portrait that has good light available.
02-16-2015, 11:55 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by 6BQ5 Quote
The only "down side" to a faster lens is the shallower depth of field. At f/1.4 you won't seemingly get much in focus, especially with a moving baby. By the time you focus on the eyes she will probably rock backwards and only the nose will be crisp - if that. Shooting at f/1.4 has its merits but I wouldn't apply it to kid photography. I would use f/1.4 for a soft and beautiful portrait that has good light available.
I have that problem with my DA50mm f1.8!

---------- Post added 02-16-15 at 01:00 PM ----------

As for a DIY modifier, who make a good one. I purchased one of those Fong gizmos that attaches to the hot shoe for the X's Nikon. It was a waste of money, did little to nothing!
02-16-2015, 12:13 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by kjphilippona Quote
Here is a shot i took last night.
so when I look at your exif I see f2.8, did you use the shake reduction?
may i quickly take that picture of your grand daughter and try to improve it in PP (its low res but it could help understanding what i mean below)?

something you could test & practice for the future: :-)
I don't know exactly how good that the K-50 is with shadow (or dark area) details, i don't have one. But if that camera is as good as e.g. K-5/3 you could try to underexpose the image just a tad lets say you would go to 1/40, 1/50, 1/60s instead of 1/30s and then do an exposer correction in post processing (Picasa, Lightroom, etc)


Last edited by max_pyne; 02-16-2015 at 12:22 PM.
02-16-2015, 12:16 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by max_pyne Quote
so when I look at your exif I see f2.8, did you use the shake reduction?
my i quickly take that picture of your grand daughter and try to improve it in PP?
Yes & yes
02-16-2015, 12:24 PM - 1 Like   #25
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So this is what i mean...:-)
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02-16-2015, 12:27 PM - 1 Like   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by max_pyne Quote
So this is what i mean...:-)
Nicely done!
02-16-2015, 01:23 PM   #27
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Very nice
02-17-2015, 01:51 PM - 1 Like   #28
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DA 35mm......for first choice. The 18-135mm is ok too....would be my second choice. Oops...I see there is a second page...sorry. Its all lighting and exposure.......Lens is fine.
02-17-2015, 02:22 PM - 1 Like   #29
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I would also add to shoot RAW, if you have the time to process later, add sharpening , de-noise etc

Since the party is indoors, I would say 18-55.

35 and 50 will not be good for group photos, unless you have really big rooms. And 18-135 will just give you more weight and size, because you will not use anything above 50mm

You can dial down the output of the built-in flash by using the back control wheel, after pressing the flash button (at least it's like that on K-x and K-5 II ).
Use -1 or lower

Set ISO range 400 - 1000 and shutter speed to anything over 100/s

Best to use Tv mode

If you don't want to use flash, than you need to use high ISO... no way around it.

Last edited by ZeljkoS; 02-17-2015 at 02:29 PM.
02-19-2015, 08:44 PM - 1 Like   #30
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I would not shoot that slow (1/30), hand-held, no matter the lighting. My choice of shutter speed when hand-held is always at least 1/125, but often higher, like 1/160. In low light, at that speed (or higher), one of my workarounds is to set the ISO from 100-200, the aperture to f/8 (a bit more or less), and use the pop-up flash set to -2 or -1.7.

You would have to accomplish this in manual mode; challenging, but possible. Experiment with the settings. Take time to tweak one or more until you get the look you want.

Once the pop-up flash is engaged, your shutter speed will not go above 1/180 which is why it is helpful to lower the flash output to eliminate washed-out photos.

Experiment! Have fun.
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