I have a K30, which is basically the same camera as the K50, the latter being just a fashion upgrade (same sensor, same specs and performances).
I have the two lenses kit zooms, DA 18-55 and DA 50-200, that I bought 10 years ago with my first DSLR, the IST-DS.
I upgraded last year because my son had a K5 and I could check how much the sensor, AF and image processing technology has improved since 2005, especially shooting in low light.
I bought my K30 with the DA 18-135 WR as a kit lens. It is a little more expensive than the 2 lenses kit, but you have the convenience of a do-everything lens which you are used to in compacts P&S.
If you buy a K50, the 2 lenses kit costs you around 200 € or $ more than body alone, and the 18-135 an extra 150.
The weight is the same, because the 18-135 is built like a tank.
The 18-55 and 50-200 have been redisigned when Pentax introduced the Weather Resistance, but basically they are the same 10 years old technology, with the AF done via an efficient and reliable but noisy svrew drive from a motor inside the camera body.
Yet, reviewers consider the Pentax 18-55 is better than the Canon or Nikon 18-55, both for its optical performance and its build quality.
Beware that the 18-55 and 50-200 come in two options, the standard one which is WR, comes with a metal mount, a sunshine hood (a cumbersome accessory, I admit, but it really reduces the flare when the sun or a bright light source is close to your subject), and has the "quick shift" focus, which allows you to manually adjust the focus when the camera has done the autofocus. There is also a budget version, same optical formula and IQ, but no WR, and comes with a plastic mount, no hood, no quick_shift, and a cheaper feeling. I suggest you choose the WR version, which is worth the slightly higher price, and is usually the standard kit lens for the WR K50.
The 18-135 is only a 2 years old technology, with more advanced optics and a fast DC in-lens motor driving the autofocus silently.
Coming from a compact P&S, both option should satisfy you for many years, the only question you have to answer is wether you are willing to pay the extra bucks for the commodity of a all-in-one lens.
Of course enthusiasts on this forum will explain you that you will get much better IQ with more expensive lenses. That is true, just like it is true that you get a better driving experience with a Porsche than with a family pickup.
But the Porsche wil cost you 3 or 4 times more, and it is not so convenient in everyday life.
They will also tell you to shoot raw.
You dont need to, the out of camera JPEGs should please you for your first experiences.
But take time to read the user's manual, it will explain you how to tune the camera JPEGs to your taste: "vivid" or "bright" if you want crispy pictures directly out of camera, like on a compact, or "natural" if you prefer softer more malleables images that you will tune in your computer in post processing (PP).
For the beginning, you dont need an expensive PP software, you can use free softwares to upright and reframe your pictures, and, when needed, improve white balance, contrast, highlights and shadows.
Once you will master the camera and feel more confident with PP, you will decide wether you shoot raw and/or buy an advanced PP software.
About the K50 itself, you should not be disappointed, it is a very capable affordable camera, with some features you only find in high end expensive Canons and Nikons, such as a pentaprism viewfinder (much brighter image than the pentamirror), and weather resistance (the camera is not waterproof, but, when used with a WR lens, it can operate in rainy or wet weather, and is less sensible to dust).
It is a very photographer friendly camera, with more features than you will ever use, and it gives you access to a very wide choice of dedicated lenses.
As you are used to small sensor, shooting APS-C much bigger sensor will give you:
- an increased dynamic range (= the camera can produce better images in very contrasted scenes),
- much better quality in low light operations
- a incredibly faster operation: when you press the release, if the camera is already in focus, there is no lag, the action is immediatly frozen.
- a shallow depth of field, which means that, unless you close the aperture to f11, the front and backgrounds of your picture will be out of focus, increasing the impact of your pictures (the Japanese cal it "bokeh", it really improves portraits). However, there is a price to pay, in that you need to focus more carefully, whereas with a compact P&S, almost everything is in focus.
- interchangeable lenses, which means almost endless possibilities to buy more advanced or specialized lenses. Some are pretty expensive, they are the Porshes for enthusiasts. But, as the Pentax K mount has not changed since 40 years, you can also buy second hand legacy lenses for very low prices and yet get interesting performance, they are the second hand family pickup.
The only real con of a DSLR is that it is really bigger and heavier than a P&S, and more intrusive: everybody notice it at once, and react differently.
Which is why, besides my DSLR, I also use 2 advanced compacts camera (a very smalll one and a more performant one).
So, welcome to the world of enthusiast photography!
---------- Post added 03-11-15 at 03:25 PM ----------
Originally posted by SininStyle This forum is so much better then I ever imagined. Seriously. You guys are spewing with info and more then happy to share it. Really appreciate all the insight.
So yeah I agree I think multiple lenses to start might be a pain in the arse.
Just to be sure I follow this. A 18-135mm is 18mm to 135mm right? the 18 doesnt stand for something else?
A 18-135 is a x7.5 zoom, going from wide angle to telephoto. In full frame equivalent field, which is often used as a reference in compact P&S cameras, it corresponds to a 27-202 mm lens (see the in-depth review on this forum)
---------- Post added 03-11-15 at 03:33 PM ----------
Originally posted by SininStyle Oh I meant to answer the questions above in my last statement but forgot. We went to Target during the clearance and she held a K-50. Said it felt "right" in her hand, no sharpness or loose. She liked the grip and was impressed how straight forward the menus were. She was worried it was going to be a nightmare to decode where things would be but she picked it up pretty quick.
Pretty much sold on the K-50 at this point and the 18-135mm. Now it is just a matter of waiting for either a bundle deal or a deal on the pieces separate. I did find a K-30 used with the lens for $450 used but dont think I want to downgrade to the K-30. I know its very similar but is a step back just about everywhere.
If you can afford it, buy a new bundle from a well known vendor, so you get a warranty.
You should get bargain prices for K50 bundles in march, because the KS2, which is the latest model that will replace it, should soon be available.
I got my K30 the same way one year ago, because the K50 was getting on the shelves (same marketing as with smartphones, one new model every one or second year, even if only cosmetics).