[Tonytee]

Tony, if you're a bit uneasy about a k-30/50/70, etc... there is always the possibilty of going with a used K-5II. The price would be slightly more than a new K-50, but less than a K-70. You may or may not be lacking some minor features, but it is definitely an option to consider, and it would be a natural progression up from your k-100d.

Well again, many thanks for getting this in gear. I did follow your instructions to the letter. Here is what I did: ( I did receive a slightly used k-50 body with only 305 shutter activations for XMAS 2016), I used my Takumar F 70~210mm lens with an A setting and the camera set at Auto Pict, @1/100s, F/4, ISO at 400 and using onboard flash. This shot came out beautifully. Then I switched the aperture ring over to f/5.6 with shutter @1/80s, ISO at auto from 100~800, with the camera set on Manual and used onboard flash. Nothing worked. I ended up having to use Program mode, used onboard flash and everything worked just fine. Very happy with the results. Now to switch tracks here and speaking only for myself, I believe that once Pentax became aware of the problem of Aperture Block Problem of such a grand scale, they should have said, "Okay, all bets are off, everyone who has purchased a Pentax k-30 and or Pentax k-50, send it in to us and we will make it good." These issues happen for only one reason and that is they were cutting corners to save money. I am aware that a company has a right to minimalize its overhead, but they should stop cutting corners until there are no more corners to cut. I am perfectly willing to pay for quality. There was an American television manufacturer by the name of Zenith. The company had a wonderful motto they used which is: "The quality goes in before the name goes on." Sure, they eventually got beaten up by the Japanese manufacturers and went out of business.

That is my story and I am sticking to it. ) Thanks for reading, Tony

[NS_Sailor]

The more I read on this problem and based on my own experience I feel I may have an idea on what may be causing the issue. As an engineer in the marine industry where problems caused by even a small amount of trapped atmospheric moisture will cause problems with mechanical components, similar to the coil and armature assembly of the aperture block, in a sealed compartment or component is something we're always working to guard against. This has lead me to believe that the problem is the result of moisture being trapped inside the body causing the iron core to corrode and because of the weather sealing the camera is unable to breathe and expel the moisture when stored. This would be especially true if the camera is stored for extended periods of time with a lens still attached and or in a sealed weather proof camera bag, like I routinely did with my partially weather sealed K-500.

I came up with this hypothesis after considering the following 5 factors
1: The majority of the reported failures seemed to happen with cameras that are used infrequently
2: The K-30 K-50 and K-500 were, as I understand it, the first generation of what are considered "Entry to Mid-Entry Level" cameras that were extensively weather sealed and still utilized the Coil & Armature Aperture Control system
3: The same Coil & Armature Aperture Control system in earlier camera bodies equipped less weather sealing didn't seem to have the same issue.
4: Higher end weather sealed bodies with the screw drive Aperture Control like the K-3 don't seem to have same problem.
5: The same weather sealing designed to keep moisture out would be under the right conditions just as effective trapping moisture inside the camera.

It is therefore suggested taking the following precautions when storing the camera could possibly help prevent a failure
1: That the lens, especially any kind of weatherproof lens, be removed and be replaced with the protective cover for the mount.
2: Opening the sealed cover over the plug for the remote control
3: Storing the camera in an area with relatively low humidity, and not in a sealed weatherproof bag. If the camera body must be stored in a weather proof bag adding a couple of bags of moisture absorbing material or leaving the bag open will help

[UncleVanya]

The more I read on this problem and based on my own experience I feel I may have an idea on what may be causing the issue. As an engineer in the marine industry where problems caused by even a small amount of trapped atmospheric moisture will cause problems with mechanical components, similar to the coil and armature assembly of the aperture block, in a sealed compartment or component is something we're always working to guard against. This has lead me to believe that the problem is the result of moisture being trapped inside the body causing the iron core to corrode and because of the weather sealing the camera is unable to breathe and expel the moisture when stored. This would be especially true if the camera is stored for extended periods of time with a lens still attached and or in a sealed weather proof camera bag, like I routinely did with my partially weather sealed K-500.

I came up with this hypothesis after considering the following 5 factors
1: The majority of the reported failures seemed to happen with cameras that are used infrequently
2: The K-30 K-50 and K-500 were, as I understand it, the first generation of what are considered "Entry to Mid-Entry Level" cameras that were extensively weather sealed and still utilized the Coil & Armature Aperture Control system
3: The same Coil & Armature Aperture Control system in earlier camera bodies equipped less weather sealing didn't seem to have the same issue.
4: Higher end weather sealed bodies with the screw drive Aperture Control like the K-3 don't seem to have same problem.
5: The same weather sealing designed to keep moisture out would be under the right conditions just as effective trapping moisture inside the camera.

It is therefore suggested taking the following precautions when storing the camera could possibly help prevent a failure
1: That the lens, especially any kind of weatherproof lens, be removed and be replaced with the protective cover for the mount.
2: Opening the sealed cover over the plug for the remote control
3: Storing the camera in an area with relatively low humidity, and not in a sealed weatherproof bag. If the camera body must be stored in a weather proof bag adding a couple of bags of moisture absorbing material or leaving the bag open will help

I used my k-50 daily for the roughly 6-8 months I had it prior to it failing. I live in high humidity but in air conditioned space with Low indoor humidity. My bag in use at the time was a canvas domke. My equipment rarely was out in mist let alone rain.

I don't fit that profile.

[NS_Sailor]

I used my k-50 daily for the roughly 6-8 months I had it prior to it failing. I live in high humidity but in air conditioned space with Low indoor humidity. My bag in use at the time was a canvas domke. My equipment rarely was out in mist let alone rain.

I don't fit that profile.

I guess there are exceptions to every rule. However if you've ever changed lenses outside when it is hot and humid immediately after leaving an air conditioned room or car you will have effectively allowed humid air to be drawn in and sealed in the camera and allowed any water vapor in the air to condense on the cooler inner camera components. This is also why when using the camera in extreme cold it highly recommended that the camera be allowed to return to inside room temperature before removing the lens because humidity in the room would immediately be drawn to the cold surfaces inside the camera. As I said in my post the camera's weather sealing while being designed to keep moisture out is just as effective at keeping moisture in.

---

Last edited by NS_Sailor; 02-13-2017 at 07:38 PM.

[UncleVanya]

I guess there are exceptions to every rule. However if you've ever changed lenses outside when it is hot and humid immediately after leaving an air conditioned room or car you will have effectively allowed humid air to be drawn in and sealed in the camera and allowed any water vapor in the air to condense on the cooler inner camera components. This is also why when using the camera in extreme cold it highly recommended that the camera be allowed to return to inside room temperature before removing the lens because humidity in the room would immediately be drawn to the cold surfaces inside the camera. As I said in my post the camera's weather sealing while being designed to keep moisture out is just as effective at keeping moisture in.

None of that is news to me. I have glasses. I know what hot and humid and cold due together - LOL.

As for my camera - I can't say as I never saw the inside. I will say that the pictures I have seen of the repairs done DIY don't seem to show a lot of indication of corrosion.

[caliscouser]

Interesting and well thought out hypothesis NS_Sailor. I like how you think.
However, Iet me tell you why I disagree.

- Of all the cameras with this issue that I've seen disassembled by other people I don't think anyone has reported corrosion anywhere in the aperture mechanism. The photos don't show any signs of corrosion.
- The K-30's I've personally taken apart show no signs of corrosion to the aperture mechanism, even for cameras where there has been water intrusion.
- For cameras with moisture or water intrusion the first things to corrode are the internal assembly screws (most are not stainless). This may even be by design, sacrificial if you like.
- I took the aperture solenoid from a water compromised K-30 and used it as a donor for another K-30 and it works perfectly.

That all said, taking precautions around moisture and humidity is certainly a wise move for lots of different reasons.

*Oh and I forget to mention, people have reported aperture failures for the K-500 which have no weather-sealing.

[NS_Sailor]

Interesting and well thought out hypothesis NS_Sailor. I like how you think.
However, Iet me tell you why I disagree.

- Of all the cameras with this issue that I've seen disassembled by other people I don't think anyone has reported corrosion anywhere in the aperture mechanism. The photos don't show any signs of corrosion.
- The K-30's I've personally taken apart show no signs of corrosion to the aperture mechanism, even for cameras where there has been water intrusion.
- For cameras with moisture or water intrusion the first things to corrode are the internal assembly screws (most are not stainless). This may even be by design, sacrificial if you like.
- I took the aperture solenoid from a water compromised K-30 and used it as a donor for another K-30 and it works perfectly.

That all said, taking precautions around moisture and humidity is certainly a wise move for lots of different reasons.

*Oh and I forget to mention, people have reported aperture failures for the K-500 which have no weather-sealing.

I know all about the K-500 as I have one and I too have had a failure. Even though it may not have all internal seals of the K-50 and K-30 it does share many of the external and possibly some internal weather sealing protections of the K-50 like over access points.

[reh321]

This thread had fallen to page two.

It probably needs to be on page 1 so people can find it when they have a problem.

[Auzzie-Phoenix]

Eh... that's why I was hoping one of the mods would sticky it back when I made the thread. But I'm sure enough people will randomly post every now and then so that it doesn't fall too far down the page listings.

[Rob-48]

A note for fellow Aussies:
my 'backup' camera worked OK on manual, or AV, but on 'auto' or 'scn', gave only a dark rectangle as the 'photo'.
After reading the above, I contacted CR Kennedy, in Melbourne, and they FIXED it. Provided a NEW "Diaphragm Control Block", and, "dismantled body to s/f diaphragm control magnet, reassembled & checked ok"
Camera now working exactly as expected

[foivosloxias]

My 8 months old, K50 started freezing up yesterday. I hit the Live View button and the screen went black, nothing was working until Ι removed the battery. Later it did the same without using live view. I changed, batteries, lens, reseted the camera but nothing helped. The mirror was in the up position and nothing was working untill I removed the battery. When the camera was on again I switched to Hi continuous shooting mode and that fixed the problem. I took more 200 photos without a problem. I do not know if this a temporary fix and if the problem will appear again but for the moment it worked. I do not know if this is related to the aperture mechanism failure. Shutter count approx. 24500+, camera 6 months old under 2 years EU warranty.
--
update: The exact same problem is back after the camera was switched off for 12 hours. I am sending this camera for service.

[Rob-48]

this 'freezing' is a problem that I experienced with a canon eos 80D ---- common when using 3rd-party lenses
I have not experienced the problem on any pentax camera, with any lens
I used a Pentax K-50 with the 'dark-exposure' problem --- camera 'freezing' never occurred
the canon 80D has gone back, under warranty
I suggest you do the same with your pentax K-50,, while it is under warranty

[Auzzie-Phoenix]

Bumping this so it stays fresh in page listings. Also asking that people refrain from offering the rapid shooting "fix" advice to people... it never works as a permanent solution, and is just counterproductive, if not even more damaging.

[bronkobilly49]

I'm a long time Pentax user, started in 1978 with Pentax MX. I own a KX, MX, Super Program and P30T. I own an assortment of Pentax zoom and prime lenses, as well as a couple of AF 280T flashes. I'm retired and thought I would never be able to afford a new Pentax dslr. I had settled for and bought a Olympus E-510 used with a couple of kit lenses when Olympus discontinued the E series line. Two years ago my wife surprised me for our anniversary and bought me a K-50 with a kit lens. The camera is everything I wanted. Then about 6 months ago aperture block failure. I love the camera so I decided to get it fixed. I only have had it back a couple of months, and guess what, aperture block failure. The camera only has 2135 shutter count. I will not be getting it fixed again. I have purchase a used K-5 instead of fixing it. My recommendation to any of you who have a K-30 or K-50 with aperture block failure is to move on. I still love Pentax so I'm sticking with the brand.

[Adam]

I'm a long time Pentax user, started in 1978 with Pentax MX. I own a KX, MX, Super Program and P30T. I own an assortment of Pentax zoom and prime lenses, as well as a couple of AF 280T flashes. I'm retired and thought I would never be able to afford a new Pentax dslr. I had settled for and bought a Olympus E-510 used with a couple of kit lenses when Olympus discontinued the E series line. Two years ago my wife surprised me for our anniversary and bought me a K-50 with a kit lens. The camera is everything I wanted. Then about 6 months ago aperture block failure. I love the camera so I decided to get it fixed. I only have had it back a couple of months, and guess what, aperture block failure. The camera only has 2135 shutter count. I will not be getting it fixed again. I have purchase a used K-5 instead of fixing it. My recommendation to any of you who have a K-30 or K-50 with aperture block failure is to move on. I still love Pentax so I'm sticking with the brand.

Sorry to hear that! If I were you, I'd pressure the repair facility for a free second repair, as having it break twice with such a low shutter count is unacceptable. Then maybe the K-50 can be your backup body, or you could sell it.