Originally posted by Jean Poitiers Great and thanks for your info ... much appreciated.
I may (maybe) get this K-30 fix after all ... I just checked the shutter count via the app here on PF, and it's only just above 1,200 clicks ... so this K-30 is relatively unused, so to speak. I will keep all post as this progresses ...
Again, mille merci ... Cheers, J
it is for sure worth it, this K30 is almost new and will work a long time with the white solenoid.
The horseshoe (plunger) of the green solenoid is of a different material-mix as the white one and gets stronger magnetised due to the stronger holding force in the solenoid. This is why the sanding method helps for a while but the horseshoe moves more sloppy now, the actuations happen more sloppy (slower as well) and
the bearing (the PET body in which this plunger moves) gets easier worn out... exodus easier possible.
I have repaired myself now quite a quantity of K30/50/500/K-S1/K-S2's and made a few experiments in this way, that I first left the stuck solenoid inside, very carefully sanded the plunger, built the solenoid back inside and then tested it for a short time. It became clear to me that the movements became as I discribed it slower and more sloppy. Maybe via video in slow motion one could even see the slanted movement. I left one K30 with the filed green solenoid and inspected it after 500 actuations (it was a very worn K30 so I chose to scacrice it). The bearing (PET) was clearly more worn and the plunger had obviously mope play than before the "operation". The sound was different (louder). All this changed so much to the better when I then built in the made in Japan white solenoid! But sadly after a while the motor itself gave up. The white solenoid was still fine, I could use it in another K30.
I am certain it broke because of the worn green solenoid and the worse bearing ability of the PET body with the sanded plunger.
I could rescue the solenoid and a few parts but the K30 itself was at its end.