[reh321]

Pity there aren't and digital lenses with an aperture ring.

Not from Pentax.

I have this lens and an FA 28-135 for other reasons, but they are my 'reserve' in case the aperture control on my K-30 ever fails completely.

Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 APO DG Macro Autofocus Lens 508109 B&H

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Last edited by reh321; 10-25-2018 at 08:58 AM.

[andyk17]

You can use the 55-300mm PLM lens but it's pretty expensive.

EDIT: Actually the price has come down a but but it's still £369 in the UK.



There was a time that Japanese companies were different and the person responsible would have quit citing "deep shame".

It's actually not that difficult to repair yourself following the instructions and videos on here but I have a K-5 II as well so it didn't matter quite as much if I messed it up.

The PLM lens is a thought, I am now looking at buying a used K5, so lens will I assume work on both.

Thanks

Andy

---------- Post added 10-26-18 at 10:49 AM ----------

Not from Pentax.

I have this lens and an FA 28-135 for other reasons, but they are my 'reserve' in case the aperture control on my K-30 ever fails completely.

Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 APO DG Macro Autofocus Lens 508109 B&H

Thanks for the info, at the moment I am using a Pentax 28-200mm and a Sigma 28-70 when I want something lighter and don't need the reach, but I am keeping an eye open for a 28-135mm if I find one at a good price.

I have sort of solved my overexposure problem, I didn't realise that I could use exposure compensation in manual mode (I assumed that pressing the green button would negate it), I have been experimenting and it seems to work.

Andy

[photogem]

The PLM lens is a thought, I am now looking at buying a used K5, so lens will I assume work on both.

It will not work on the K5 (nor K5II nor K5IIs).

The K30 with firmware of K50 can handle it.

[Tangent88]

I thought about the PLM lens but managed to find a "for parts" K100D on ebay for £25 that still had the white solenoids in

Soldering iron kit was £12, solder was £1 so that worked out a lot cheaper.

[Jean Poitiers]

"Bonjour" everyone,

Just a quick question to ask and sorry if this has been asked before ... I just discovered this thread after acquiring a white K-30 with a full-blown aperture block failure.

Do not worry ... I bought it (bare body with battery, charger & manual) for 30€ at a photo swap meet. Works fine in manual mode and that's about all that I shoot nowadays.

My question is the average repair cost for this problem. I would just like to know, but I doubt that I will have this K-30 repaired. I will just play around with it my K-mount film lenses ... and maybe a Tak or another M42 with adapter.

Any info will be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance for your reply. Salut, J

[Not a Number]

"Bonjour" everyone,

Just a quick question to ask and sorry if this has been asked before ... I just discovered this thread after acquiring a white K-30 with a full-blown aperture block failure.

Do not worry ... I bought it (bare body with battery, charger & manual) for 30€ at a photo swap meet. Works fine in manual mode and that's about all that I shoot nowadays.

My question is the average repair cost for this problem. I would just like to know, but I doubt that I will have this K-30 repaired. I will just play around with it my K-mount film lenses ... and maybe a Tak or another M42 with adapter.

Any info will be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance for your reply. Salut, J

The repair cost at the US authorized repair center runs around $175 USD plus shipping to the center. A non-authorized repair person who only does this repair charges $100 USD plus shipping. Replacement (used) solenoids on ebay go for $35-50 USD plus shipping. You can buy the complete genuine diaphragm control block for around $35 USD plus shipping from USCamera.com (they ship overseas). You'd have to replace the parts yourself or pay someone to do it. Or you could buy an older camera for parts that use a compatible solenoid.

It is also possible that Ricoh will cover the repair out of warranty. Only way to know is to contact Ricoh.

[Jean Poitiers]

The repair cost at the US authorized repair center runs around $175 USD plus shipping to the center. A non-authorized repair person who only does this repair charges $100 USD plus shipping. Replacement (used) solenoids on ebay go for $35-50 USD plus shipping. You can buy the complete genuine diaphragm control block for around $35 USD plus shipping from USCamera.com (they ship overseas). You'd have to replace the parts yourself or pay someone to do it. Or you could buy an older camera for parts that use a compatible solenoid.

It is also possible that Ricoh will cover the repair out of warranty. Only way to know is to contact Ricoh.

OK ... merci bien.

That gives me some ideas and where to go, etc. Cheers, J

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Last edited by Jean Poitiers; 11-25-2018 at 01:17 PM.

[photogem]

"Bonjour" everyone,

Just a quick question to ask and sorry if this has been asked before ... I just discovered this thread after acquiring a white K-30 with a full-blown aperture block failure.

Do not worry ... I bought it (bare body with battery, charger & manual) for 30€ at a photo swap meet. Works fine in manual mode and that's about all that I shoot nowadays.

My question is the average repair cost for this problem. I would just like to know, but I doubt that I will have this K-30 repaired. I will just play around with it my K-mount film lenses ... and maybe a Tak or another M42 with adapter.

Any info will be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance for your reply. Salut, J

As you live in beautiful France you will probably avoid the complicated procedure of sending your K30 to USA, as customs and VAT and shipping will cost you a fortune.

Buy the solenoid in ebay Kleinanzeigen, Germany , shipping should be cheap and repair it yourself, it is worth doing it.
Maybe... if you don't live too far away, you might even get it repaired there because Saarbruecken is right at the border to Forbach or Sarreguemines.

Ricoh France will only repair it maybe on warranty if you are the original buyer and can proove this.
I would not recommend to buy the "genuine diaphragm controll block" because it has the green bad solenoid on it. One guy wrote he got it with the white one but he has not replied to questions of posting a photo, he never built it in. It is way more complicated to built this block in compared to exchange the
solenoid which is peanuts really if you don't have very clumy and two very left hands. Photographers usually have quite well developed fingers I think.

I also would not recommend anybody to send it to California as he most likely sands the solenoid which is neither a good idea.

[Jean Poitiers]

As you live in beautiful France you will probably avoid the complicated procedure of sending your K30 to USA, as customs and VAT and shipping will cost you a fortune.

Buy the solenoid in ebay Kleinanzeigen, Germany , shipping should be cheap and repair it yourself, it is worth doing it.
Maybe... if you don't live too far away, you might even get it repaired there because Saarbruecken is right at the border to Forbach or Sarreguemines.

Ricoh France will only repair it maybe on warranty if you are the original buyer and can proove this.
I would not recommend to buy the "genuine diaphragm controll block" because it has the green bad solenoid on it. One guy wrote he got it with the white one but he has not replied to questions of posting a photo, he never built it in. It is way more complicated to built this block in compared to exchange the
solenoid which is peanuts really if you don't have very clumy and two very left hands. Photographers usually have quite well developed fingers I think.

I also would not recommend anybody to send it to California as he most likely sands the solenoid which is neither a good idea.

Great and thanks for your info ... much appreciated.

I may (maybe) get this K-30 fix after all ... I just checked the shutter count via the app here on PF, and it's only just above 1,200 clicks ... so this K-30 is relatively unused, so to speak. I will keep all post as this progresses ...

Again, mille merci ... Cheers, J

[reh321]

Great and thanks for your info ... much appreciated.

I may (maybe) get this K-30 fix after all ... I just checked the shutter count via the app here on PF, and it's only just above 1,200 clicks ... so this K-30 is relatively unused, so to speak. I will keep all post as this progresses ...

Unfortunately, this particular ailment is at least as much a result of calendar age as it is a result of shutter count.

[photogem]

Great and thanks for your info ... much appreciated.

I may (maybe) get this K-30 fix after all ... I just checked the shutter count via the app here on PF, and it's only just above 1,200 clicks ... so this K-30 is relatively unused, so to speak. I will keep all post as this progresses ...

Again, mille merci ... Cheers, J

it is for sure worth it, this K30 is almost new and will work a long time with the white solenoid.

The horseshoe (plunger) of the green solenoid is of a different material-mix as the white one and gets stronger magnetised due to the stronger holding force in the solenoid. This is why the sanding method helps for a while but the horseshoe moves more sloppy now, the actuations happen more sloppy (slower as well) and
the bearing (the PET body in which this plunger moves) gets easier worn out... exodus easier possible.

I have repaired myself now quite a quantity of K30/50/500/K-S1/K-S2's and made a few experiments in this way, that I first left the stuck solenoid inside, very carefully sanded the plunger, built the solenoid back inside and then tested it for a short time. It became clear to me that the movements became as I discribed it slower and more sloppy. Maybe via video in slow motion one could even see the slanted movement. I left one K30 with the filed green solenoid and inspected it after 500 actuations (it was a very worn K30 so I chose to scacrice it). The bearing (PET) was clearly more worn and the plunger had obviously mope play than before the "operation". The sound was different (louder). All this changed so much to the better when I then built in the made in Japan white solenoid! But sadly after a while the motor itself gave up. The white solenoid was still fine, I could use it in another K30.


I am certain it broke because of the worn green solenoid and the worse bearing ability of the PET body with the sanded plunger.

I could rescue the solenoid and a few parts but the K30 itself was at its end.

[Jean Poitiers]

it is for sure worth it, this K30 is almost new and will work a long time with the white solenoid.

The horseshoe (plunger) of the green solenoid is of a different material-mix as the white one and gets stronger magnetised due to the stronger holding force in the solenoid. This is why the sanding method helps for a while but the horseshoe moves more sloppy now, the actuations happen more sloppy (slower as well) and
the bearing (the PET body in which this plunger moves) gets easier worn out... exodus easier possible.

I have repaired myself now quite a quantity of K30/50/500/K-S1/K-S2's and made a few experiments in this way, that I first left the stuck solenoid inside, very carefully sanded the plunger, built the solenoid back inside and then tested it for a short time. It became clear to me that the movements became as I discribed it slower and more sloppy. Maybe via video in slow motion one could even see the slanted movement. I left one K30 with the filed green solenoid and inspected it after 500 actuations (it was a very worn K30 so I chose to scacrice it). The bearing (PET) was clearly more worn and the plunger had obviously mope play than before the "operation". The sound was different (louder). All this changed so much to the better when I then built in the made in Japan white solenoid! But sadly after a while the motor itself gave up. The white solenoid was still fine, I could use it in another K30.


I am certain it broke because of the worn green solenoid and the worse bearing ability of the PET body with the sanded plunger.

I could rescue the solenoid and a few parts but the K30 itself was at its end.

OK ... this is great to know and I really appreciate your experiences.

I am still debating on what to do with this K-30 ...and I may resell it for my cost to a friend that needs a Pentax DSLR ... she shoots with a ME Super and a few M lenses. We'll see if she would be interested ... Cheers, J

[photogem]

OK ... this is great to know and I really appreciate your experiences.

I am still debating on what to do with this K-30 ...and I may resell it for my cost to a friend that needs a Pentax DSLR ... she shoots with a ME Super and a few M lenses. We'll see if she would be interested ... Cheers, J

good possibility but for a K30 with that low shuttercount almost a shame.

Try to repair it yourself, it is not a big deal!

[jcagara08]

unfortunately my K50 also gave up on me (dark images on both shots through viewfinder and liveview mode) and asked for a service repair with the part replacement and was quoted at about $100 bucks here in Dubai


meanwhile I have been offered a brand new K-5 iis body at a $446, shall I go ahead with the repair or just let her RIP (my K50) and buy a K 5ii S?

[photogem]

unfortunately my K50 also gave up on me (dark images on both shots through viewfinder and liveview mode) and asked for a service repair with the part replacement and was quoted at about $100 bucks here in Dubai

meanwhile I have been offered a brand new K-5 iis body at a $446, shall I go ahead with the repair or just let her RIP (my K50) and buy a K 5ii S?

The K5IIs is the better body, no daubt. But I would shoot as good photos with both of them, you wouldn't notice the difference.
The K5IIs is for sure the more robust one and has advantages in low light, more quiet shutter, top display, it is in a way one of my very favourite Pentax bodies. I would never part with mine!

Nevertheless: Repair it yourself if you somehow can by using the white made in Japan solenoid.
Better solution or... buy the white solenoid and insist (with proof) that it was built in. Because usually service repairers will either file the plunger of the solenoid or replace it with the cheap green China solenoid. No good idea ... neither of them.