Originally posted by useK30witheneloops Bought my K-30 on the famous platform, after a while the typical aperture problems appeared...first frustration....
...found the instructions of changing the green selenoid to the white one... opened up the camera.... damn...second frustration...it already had the white one...
...I gave up hope, it seemed that I had to accept that I've been cheated...
....then...thanks to a post on a german pentax-site...I found the advice to take eneloops within the battery holder instead of the block-battery -because there are some further electronic issues expected, not only the selenoid-
well, as a German you can read ... and translate what was written:
One member guesses (!) that he recalls (and later refers to) a
comment he read here on pentaxforum.com i.e. the comment #502 by Jeff Lopez.
It is the guessing of somebody who never opened a Pentax K30 or similar.
Maybe you can post a photo of it so we can see which white solenoid was in this K30?
And maybe then you can also show us where there is this capacitor which might have gone off?
Strange thing is: if a capacitor is off or not working anymore, why then does it work with Eneloops?
And even more strange: Most Pentax DSLR bodies with a failing green made in China solenoid catch this problem with low shuttercount. All the sudden they don't work anymore.
But alas....even much more simply:
If one inspects the
Diaphragm Control Block :
Where the heck can you detect an condensor there?
One could searched with a magnifying glass: No capacitor either.
On its back side?
BAD LUCK . No condensor.
I have 5 diaphragm Control Blocks here, so even statistics prove: No condensor. Not even an homeopathic dose.
So for a long time Pentax/Ricoh has repaired the shutter-problem via replacement of exactly this complete diaphragm-control-block (including the solenoid)
..... and the bloody thing worked... for a time, usually about a year and of course we only know of the reported cases where it went wrong again.
Why would it work for about 1 year and then fail again?
If there is a damaged power-supply or a damaged condensor it would not work anymore right away... right?
And why did the white made in Japan solenoid never go wrong in any of the pre K-30 DLSR cameras?
And in the K20D and K10D it was fed with a Li-Ion battery, not Eneloops!
As well as in the K-r, which was the first of the consumer series which could use Li-Ion.
The K-r had the white solenoid built in.
Well, I made once the test, I took out the white solenoid and built in the sanded green solenoid which had failed in a K30. I had tested it working in the K30 and then for fun it went into the K-r: The K-r right away produced mirror-flop! So I built a white made in Japan solenoid back in, it was alright again.
And why to all K30/50/500/K-S1/K-S2 etc. all the sudden work perfectly right with the white solenoid?
Well, of course except yours.
But maybe it wasn't a white solenoid from a DSLR but from a CD-Rom drive!
But actually I suspect something complete different: You made all this up!